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Updated: 2 hours 18 min ago

Building the CLC Petrel SG & Petrel Play Kayak Kits

Wed, 02/26/2020 - 20:24
Building the CLC Petrel SG & Petrel Play Kayak Kits nick Wed, 02/26/2020 - 19:24

Chesapeake Light Craft captured this time lapse video of building the Petrel SG and Petrel Play SG back in a class I taught down at their Annapolis shop. We started out with a bare kit which is just a pile of CNC cut pieces of plywood and after the end of five and half days the students walk out with a fully assembled kayak ready for finish work.

Whiskey Strip - microBootlegger Sport - E20

Wed, 02/26/2020 - 14:06
Whiskey Strip - microBootlegger Sport - E20 nick Wed, 02/26/2020 - 13:06

Fitting in the Whiskey strip of the closing strip on the bottom.

Tools:

Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade

Music: Casey Don’t You Fret - Dan Lebowitz


[Music]
welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks shop I'm
Nick Schade today I'm going to close off
the bottom of the boat people
traditionally call a last strip on the
haul whiskey strip this is because you
can celebrate when the last strip is
done I'm not a drinker so I won't
partake and it's not really the last
strip on the boat anyways they've got
the whole top side left to go and for
those out there watching who want to
celebrate go for it I've got about one
and a half strips to go that little half
strip is so small it's hard to work with
so what I do is I end up gluing two
strips together and fitting them both at
once and so that's what I'll be working
on today
here I've got the next-to-last strip and
the last strip and so I'm going to glue
these two strips together and install
them as a unit and so the first thing
I'm gonna do one together so that's
accomplished with I tape them together
here and I'm gonna use superglue to do
this going together I could use regular
you know carpenters glue like you do
everywhere else but I'm impatient so I'm
just gonna go the quick way some CA glue
say no acrylate glue like super glue
lines up
the accelerant so here we have the
center line and the strips I'm building
in from this side over and so this strip
here is curved and this edge here is
straight and this is these strips are
going to go in parallel to this curved
strip so I'm going to end up bending
this whole thing in place you know it
looks kind of tricky now to make that
Bend but it actually works out now what
I want to do is mark that curve so the
way I'm going to accomplish that it's a
little bit confusing I'm going to take
this strip flip it over get it all lined
up here and then I'm going to mark it
from the other side so this edge here is
going to end up being curved and when I
go to mark this I'm going to be marking
what's essentially going to end up being
this straight edge but I'm going to be
marking it along this seam here this
edge right there so this is confusing so
I'm gonna reach it under here just face
him under there in between each form I'm
also gonna mark the end the tip of each
point here so now I have the curve
marked here this is all going to bend so
that this curved line is now parallel to
this straight line and this straight
edge here is going to be parallel to
this curved edge that's confusing but I
haven't found a better way to mark this
accurately and again I could have
installed this long strip like yesterday
and then had my whiskey' strip be this
narrow one right here
but it gets hard to handle such a small
piece of wood when it's that narrow and
work on it accurately having a little
bit bigger piece of woods easier to work
with and I still need to figure out
those tapers and the width here is the
width it needs to be I know the strip
can bend I have bent all the other ones
this is just one more strip those little
bend the same way so that's where we're
going from here I'll end up cutting this
curve on the bandsaw but first let me
just Bolden up that line so I don't make
mistakes and cutting I'm gonna cut
outside of that line so again I mark the
cut like this but it's going to be
installed like this and so essentially
the process is just like I do for all
the other strips fit one end and then
work on fitting the other and so I'll
try and get it so it's fitting nicely
along this edge at one end trying to get
my registration marks here lined up so
that's to get the grain matching going
and then once it's good at one end or
close to good I'll leave a little leeway
from mistakes and then switch to the
other end and try and get this in fitted
in so it's just a matter of patience and
whittling away at it and nothing too
complicated
break out the block plane I do find it
useful use the bottom of the boat as a
work surface but if I go directly on the
bottom of the boat when I tried a plane
to the end I end up hitting the boat
don't want to do that so I just grab a
spare strip and lift up off the boat and
now I can start playing down towards
that line
you gonna bring it down closer the whole
length I was a little bit conservative
with my pants off cut so initially just
sort the strip in place try and see
where it's binding up first
as expected right out at the tip and I
can look at my bevel angle the feel for
how things are I'll have a whole lot of
room to change the length here right now
it's tight here but loose here in order
to get it tighter here I need to slide
the whole thing forward a bit and so
that means I need to remove material
from where it's tight all right now it
fits up in the very tip here but it's
starting to get tight back here so if I
drag my pencil along the keel line as I
try and push this new strip in I end up
with a mark along here showing this is
where it fits perfectly this is where it
basically doesn't fit at all and so I
want to do my shaving from here forward
and basically don't shave any beyond
this point it doesn't need to go any
beyond that point at this stage
so now it's fitting up to here do the
same drill so it fits up to here doesn't
fit there so I can remove material and
back here and move a little bit forward
so where it doesn't fit at all I do the
most strokes with the plane and where
I've just barely doesn't fit essentially
I only do one stroke of the play
all right now I'm at about the widest
point of the strip I'll get a little bit
more fitting here and then start at the
other end and I'll start working on the
other end so I'll just roughly clean up
this cut here so at this point I'm just
looking forward where it binds up in
shaving off the high spots winding up
right there and sort of right here at
the same time it was a gap right here so
I will trim a little bit more at the end
here I need to sharpen this tool
all right we're playing sharpen again
let's get back to it all right so now it
fits in this end this end I don't want
to work on the overall length for these
long tapers can sometimes help to just
back up the strip with another strip so
it doesn't flex away on that really
narrow tip
I want to get my grain marks here to
line up this is a task which just takes
patience taking small thin slices off at
a time
I'm just looking for where it looks
tight and moving material from that area
first and now on my marks here now I
could very easily make a piece it just
drops in almost the first try what makes
us take so long I didn't want to fit to
be really tight that's why it's such a
painstaking process if I just wanted
something to fill a gap up I could have
you know essentially cut to my pencil
line here and dropped it right in and
filled in the gap with schmutz and that
is a perfectly valid way of doing it
here I'm just trying to make it look
like I didn't do that so it's one step
at a time
patience fitting as you go
and hopefully it'll all fit in really
nice and we're done so we've got it
really well fitted at that end I'm going
to do the same at this end and I want to
get some marks here to serve as guides
for the line about 1/8 inch off and
length here and there's some tight
mostly hitting right in here now links
that length looks good or maybe a 32nd
often like there I have the OS
all right yeah it's pretty well so now
we'll put some glue on it and secure it
in place it's not perfect it's not bad
the gray pattern on this isn't that
distinctive so it's hard to see really
the book matching but you can see hints
of it here and there and did a pretty
good job of matching up the points of
these strips on each side not quite as
good at the stern I'm off by 3/4 of an
inch here so what causes the disparities
between the end of this strip coming in
here and the end of this strip coming in
here ideally I'd like to have them lined
up next to each other but what causes
that is a variety of factors if the
center line is a little bit off one way
or the other that will adjust where the
strip coming in from one side of the
other is going to hit it but also the
micro bootlegger sport has this chine
line going on here and so the number of
strips counting across here and how long
it takes to get from this edge to the
center line and from this edge to the
center line is very dependent on exactly
where these two lines are cut getting
these precisely the same is going to
control how closely these meet coming up
the side of the boat we
to the water line and I made a trim line
there and then I had to add more strips
and then trim it again and keep on
adding more strips so I had one two
three different places for small amounts
of error to occur and really the amount
of difference from this point to that
point remember when I'm planing away at
the strips I don't need to plane away
much to affect how far down the length
this grain alignment mark is we're
talking maybe a sixteenth of an inch or
even less between this edge and that
edge to create an error of you know one
inch there or instantly a quarter so it
doesn't take much to throw it off a
little bit micro bootlegger sports
unusual for most strip built designs in
that it has this chain here and so often
if you just start out at the right place
the shear line and are very good at
keeping things even as you come up and
get that centerline cut precisely it'll
be a lot easier to get a good alignment
there again this is just one of those
things to think about I don't I know
from experience that this will be
virtually unnoticeable just everything
seems to be coming down to the point
here and where exactly that point is the
eye just doesn't pick up on it and if
you don't like that answer this is the
bottom of the boat and so nobody's going
to see it so next episode will be
flipping the forms over and breaking the
forms off of the strips that way I can
go ahead and start stripping the deck
and I don't need to worry about having
to get the forms broken out of the hull
and the deck at the same time by having
broken out of the hull already I'll be
able to remove the hull when it comes
time to remove it and then easily remove
the deck forms by having full access to
those forms as well so it's
it's looking good I'm really pleased
with how it's coming out if you have any
questions please post them in the
comments
I appreciate your likes your
subscriptions notifications sharing with
your friends share on Facebook support
me on patreon buy a t-shirt buy set of
plans that all supports the operation of
this channel lets me justify the time
it's been making these videos I do
appreciate your support
so until the next episode thanks for
watching and happy paddling.

Gluing the Shafts Together and Finishing

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 20:27
Gluing the Shafts Together and Finishing nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 19:27

I like to do most of the work before gluing the scarf on the shaft together. This just keeps the parts easy to handle while doing the work.

Since the paddle shaft is a bit oval, the scarf does not fit together in a perfect match, you will need to eyeball it a bit to make sure the two halves are straight and true before the glue sets up.

You can then finish shaping the shafts in the scarf area and start the finish sanding process. 

Coat everything with a coat of epoxy after it is all smooth. This serves as a solid base for the protective coating.

Before the final finish coats give the whole paddle a through sanding up to at least 220 grit sandpaper.

In this case I use a 2-part automotive style clear coat that is available from Amazon, but you can also use a more traditional marine spar varnish.

The finished is lightweight and strong. I prefer the feel of wood in my hands over fiberglass or carbon fiber. Especially in the winter it feels warm and comfortable.

Happy Paddling!


Assembling the scarf on the feathered
paddles is a little bit tricky since the
angles are weird things don't line up in
a logical obvious way so the best thing
you can do is do some dry fits play with
it a little bit and what it's going to
come down to is just eyeballing it
trying to see that the paddle is
straight a couple things I try and do I
try and line up the tips of the cut here
with the end of the scarf cut here
approximately the tip of this broken off
a little bit but that will give you a
rough guide and then trying to sort of
split the difference on any error on one
side versus the other what makes these
particularly tricky is the shafts aren't
square so their dimensions through the
spine are different than their dimension
across the shaft so things don't line up
in the way you might imagine so the
first thing I do is just scuff up this
scarf cut with a little bit of sandpaper
just just open the pores a little bit
make it so the glue is gonna adhere
better and then just put it together and
you'll find that there's sort of a wider
side and a narrower side if you put the
clamp on the narrower side it tends to
want to squirt it out so if you stick it
on the wider side and this is due to the
fact that it's at a non 90-degree angle
and again we're going to try and line up
these points here a little bit
just trying to look at the amount of
wood showing on the scarf he ever see
his mountain wood on the scarf here try
and make that fairly even I'm gonna just
look down the shaft try and see if it's
straight and if it needs a little
adjusting so again I'm doing this dry
right now just to get a feel for it
you know once the glue gets on it's
gonna be a whole lot slippery er and
harder to have everything stay in place
so just getting a feel for what you're
gonna have to accomplish once the glue
is on there makes life better you can
then take a pencil and make a few marks
here just to help you get a sense of
where it's gonna have to go when you put
it back together then we'll use a
waterproof wood glue and it on here
spread it around a bit
and see it's much slippery right now
and then wants to slide lengthwise
once you get it lined up put it aside
and come back and check it in a few
minutes make sure it's still straight
now that the glue is dry I want to blend
in the scarf joint here so basically I'm
just going to aim down towards the flats
here so take this point down to the flat
here take this point down to the flat
there and likewise all the way around
and then start blending in the radius so
I have a radius here I'll start blending
that in and radius here start blending
that in and just merge it all together
once I've got the scarf rounded out or
at least roughly rounded out I want to
start refining the overall shape of the
shaft and I'd like it egg shaped so I'd
like when you grip the paddle to the
knuckles would be a little bit narrower
on that side than it is on the palm side
it's already a little bit oblong in that
it's thicker this way than it is this
way so it's wider or taller than it is
thick so it's got an oval shape which
will help index you the hand to more
obvious where the blade orientation is
going to be but also it's just a little
bit more comfortable if it's a little
bit egg-shaped and a little bit narrower
so this part of the hand is in the
narrower spot and this is a little bit
beefier spot so the first thing I'm
doing is I'm just going to go ahead and
so concentrate on that side of the
paddle with the plane so I'm tapering it
in slightly towards the back face of the
paddle that's being the back face front
face so I'm tapering it slightly towards
the back face then once that's tapered
in there now I can start working on
getting rid of any sharp edges so again
I used two one inch diameter round over
bit half inch radius to start this round
over but I've got inch and a quarter by
inch and an eighth here so it left some
flat spots top bottom left right I want
to get rid of those flat spots so I'm
just going to start blending that
a little bit and I find a variety of
tools actually worked pretty well for
this right now I've got a Nicholson rasp
the block plane works one of these
shinto wood rasps works pretty nice and
I have these Japanese float style planes
that's all depending on which wood
you're working on some will work better
than others
so I like to have them all out and I'll
sometimes they'll just change because
I'm bored I want to get rid of the flat
spot on the top edge here in the bottom
edge and this will all blend in a nice
smooth curve Sitka spruce is a tough
wood and as a result it does get a
little bit of tear out it'll pay
attention to the grain
the final arbiter of whether you've
shaped it well is if it feels good to
the hand that's the only thing that's
really going to matter in the long run
is if it feels good to your hand because
your hands going to be touching this all
the time you're using it and if it feels
good it is good
I found one of the better ways of
getting a really round shaft or smoothly
rounded shaft is the shoeshine method
I'm going to start with some 50 grit
here and work up to higher grits and
you'll see with how it goes
[Music]
[Music]
so I ended up putting two coats of epoxy
on all the blades and the paddle shafts
just to make sure I had a good level
surface there get that sanded smooth and
it'll look really nice and the epoxy is
like the best primer you can put on the
shaft as far as something that clear
coats will bond to really well and bonds
the wood really well so at this point
I'm going to sand everything smooth get
it ready for the clear coat I could use
a varnish on it but I'm planning on
using the same two-part rattle key and
stuff that I used on the micro
bootlegger sport I think it'll be a good
tough finish for the paddles lasts a
long time and it gives me a chance to
actually use something that I've used
that product on and see for myself
really how well at last I've only used
that for customer products before so
that's my plan and the good a good teach
one nice and it finished should be a
good place to start applying that clear
coat so I will start at a 120 to level
the surface and work on left with the
power face of blade first that will be
the easiest to just get leveled down
I'll do some power sanding on the back
but with all the contours the power
saying there's not quite as effective
where I need to get into the details a
little bit more I'll crank down the
speed on the power of Sanders so I don't
end up burning through this epoxy
finished and then from there I'll go on
to hand sanding and I'll do the 120 and
then go to 220 you'll see I've got some
little clamps here on my sawhorses it
just sort of tame the paddle so I don't
have to hold on to it while I'm singing
[Music]

Glassing the Blades

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 20:06
Glassing the Blades nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 19:06

It is amazing how much strength a layer of 2-ounce fiberglass will add to the wood. Between the two and with the cord around the edge the paddle blade can absorb a lot of abuse.

I can get two layers out of the width of the fabric. I cut all the pieces to size as well as some extra pieces to add more strength to the tips. 

Again some heat will help the fabric absorb the resin for a nice clear layup. Squeegee off the excess to keep the blade lightweight. After squeegeeing the fabric should not be glossy, the matte finish indicates the fabric is tight against the wood and not floating up.

After the wet-out coat of epoxy has set up I apply a fill coat that fills the weave of the fabric and starts making the paddle shiny.

hey welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks
workshop i'm Nick Schade and i'm working
on building kayak paddles in this
episode i'll glass the blades and
reinforce them I do the glassing in a
couple stage process first I glass the
whole blade then I added a little bit of
reinforcement to the tips and I do this
in two steps so I don't get air trapped
in between the glass I found with a
tight weave on the two ounce clasp it
attempts to trap air in between the
layers so doing it in a several stage
process I find to get less trapped air
so let's get to it the cut ends of the
cord saturated in epoxy or hard and
stiff and rough I want to blend those
down into the shape of the paddle blade
so I'm just gonna use a sharp utility
knife just Whittle those down this gives
you an idea of how tough this cord is
it's pretty tough stuff epoxy saturated
nylon I'm doing this while the epoxy is
still fairly soft
the next day after wetting out this cord
so it's still fairly easy to carve as
the epoxy sets up harder and harder this
will be harder to do so it's worthwhile
doing this while the epoxy is still
relatively soft it's trying to blend
those ends in
this is a two ounce glass I'm using I'll
put one layer on each side over the
whole blade and then those where I want
them reinforced more I will add some
extra layers down at the tip and making
seven paddles here so I need 28 pieces
so each one of these is 2 pieces this
will be the extra for the tip this edge
has a salvaged edge on it basically the
loose threads are sewn off so they don't
come unraveling and I'll end up putting
those up at the throat end of the blade
just to have a cleaner edge where the
glass ends where it gets on to the shaft
I'm applying a little epoxy with the cab
Asil in it to thicken it up around the
edge because the transition between that
cord and the wood sometimes there's a
little gap there and I just want
something that's going to naturally flow
in there and fill that up and stay there
so they don't get bubbles I'm just
applying it around the edge and I'll
squeegee it around
two on both sides
so now when I put the glass on that cab
asil will fill up any gaps are there the
trickiest part of the glass in here is
right here around the throat where it
goes in deeply this 2 ounce glass
doesn't really like to conform to shapes
as well as the 4 ounce it does okay with
most of the shape on these paddles but
doesn't work so well on a boat because
the shape of a boat is just too much
contour going on it won't this 2 ounce
glass won't conform to it so just put a
little bit on enough to hopefully get
the whole thing wet out laughs it might
need a little bit more and I'll take and
trim off the excess glass
and hit it with the heat gun to get the
bubbles out
this again this two ounce cloth doesn't
like giving up the trapped air and it
either so a little bit of heat gun to
lower the viscosity of the resin up in
here wants to bridge so squeegee off
most of the excess into the Grunch cup
and then I'm going to soak up the excess
remaining excess with the paper towel
this is a very poor man's vacuum bagging
just sponging up any excess make sure
it's down into that contour it over to
the other side
takes a little while for this a resin to
soak into the cloth
[Applause]
[Applause]
so I heat it up and give the whole thing
the whole face the coating of epoxy the
heat lowers the viscosity the epoxy and
then spreading it over the whole thing
will make it so I don't have as
noticeable an edge between the part that
I'm actually working on right now and
the rest of the blade is starting to
fill a weave out here on the rest of the
blade I take my triangle of glass
lay it down across here put that on a
little bit more heat to get
[Applause]
[Music]
squeegee off the excess resin
and just give it a little inspection so
while I still have the feathered paddle
split in half not yet glued together
into full-length paddles I'm gonna do a
full coat on the blade it's just easier
to get the paddle in a position where it
will dry without drips while I have it
separated so I can turn it up on edge
and then any drips will tend to sheet
off and it should be the smoother finish
when I'm done I'm using a little bit
different epoxy this time it levels out
best with a blowtorch as opposed to
using the heat gun so you'll see me
using the blowtorch sauna
[Applause]
so that's it for this episode in the
next episode we'll be finishing the
paddles it might take me a little while
to get the next episode out it's cold
out and I want to do the finish work
outside I'm going to be putting on a
spray clear coat automotive style clear
coat and I'd rather not do that inside
if I can avoid it and being cold outside
and kind of windy I'm waiting for a good
day when I can go out and get that clear
coat applied so thanks for your patience
if it takes a little while that's what's
going on in the meantime I've started
building a petrol right now it's all
stripped up and I just stained it and
I'm about ready to glass if you want to
keep abreast of what I'm doing in more
real-time I have an Instagram and
Facebook page and I tend to post stuff
there a little bit more frequently just
updates on what's going on if you like
the looks of this kayak paddle project
and would like to do your own it's a
really fun project and I do sell plans
I'll provide a link in the description
to my webpage where you can purchase the
plans it's a fun project you can knock
it off in a couple weekends and have
yourself a really beautiful paddle sails
of plans is one of the ways I support
producing these videos if you'd like to
support the production of these videos
you can buy plans or you can just like
the video share it with your friends get
on to Facebook or Instagram and follow
my page is there anything like that this
really does support the process of
making these videos and any support you
can provide is really appreciated if
you're really into it I do have a
patreon page and you can go over there
and provide a little monetary support
any kind of support greatly appreciated
so until the next episode thanks for
watching and happy paddling.

Reinforcing the Edges

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 19:52
Reinforcing the Edges nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 18:52

I regularly bounce my paddles off rocks. I want a rugged and durable edge to absorb the abuse. I have found that para-cord saturated in epoxy resin is very tough. While you can't exactly cut down a tree with these paddles, they will handle paddling in rock gardens or doing whitewater.

I use a small rasp to start a shallow groove around the whole perimeter of the blade. This just provides a place to hold the cord until the epoxy bonds it to the paddle.

I use some heat and liberally brush epoxy on the cord to maximize the penetration of resin into the cord.


hey welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade and I'm making
kayak paddles.
in this episode I'll do some finish
sanding on the blades and then put a
reinforced nylon edging around the blade
this parachute cord edging makes a
really rugged blade and I think it's a
good addition to a wooden paddle so
let's get to it
[Music]
I'm gonna end up reinforcing this edge a
little bit of nylon cord so this cord
will go around this edge it makes a
really tough strong binder around the
edge of the panel but it's a little
tricky to have stay in place while
you're trying to mount it you've got to
get it glued on there saturated and it's
gonna get covered with fiberglass and I
want to keep that centered on that edge
it's basically the diameter of this cord
is the same as the width of the blade at
the edge right there so I want to keep
it centered on there so I'm using a
little fine rasp here and just going
along and putting a little cove right
along that edge and that way when I go
to put the cord on there it'll have a
place to lay and stay centered while the
glue is drying
the basic process here is we want to
secure this cord in place settled in
that groove and make it ready to glue in
so what I do is I start with a little
bit of tape and I secure one end in
place
stick that tape well to the cord and now
I want to prepare another piece of tape
the other end and I'm going to pull the
cord tight all the way around the edge
and that groove I made with the rasp
should hold the cord you want some
tension on this cord and then tape it
down at the other end now I'm going to
take a little bit of superglue put it
right up here at the end those sides
give a moment for that glue to soak into
the cord and then give it a little
spritz with the CA glue accelerant glue
is dry you can pull off the tape and I'm
just going to cut off the excess cord
right here if the cord comes on down a
little bit just place it right back in
the groove
so I'm gonna coat the whole blade with
epoxy the reason for putting on epoxy is
to saturate this parachute cord I want
to get that nylon cord completely
saturated with epoxy it's hard to get
epoxy on the cord and not get it under
the rest of the blade if I only get the
blade partially coated I didn't watch
eNOS so by coating the whole blade I'll
get an even coat on it
and I want it to soak in so right now is
fairly cool in my shop even low
viscosity epoxy has a hard time running
into the braid of the parachute cord so
I'm going to heat it up and that will
make it so the epoxy is lower viscosity
and sucks in better
[Applause]
now I'm going to paint on epoxy and I
primarily want it on the cord so as they
brush it on and brushing it onto the
cord and I'm scraping it off the edge of
the cord that way most of the epoxy gets
drawn off the brush right at the cord
and you see I end up dripping a little
bit but I want to over saturate that's
really flood the cord with the resin to
make sure it's got plenty of resin on it
in doing this it's very likely the cord
will pop off a little bit just realign
it it might happen several times and
then I'm just going to get epoxy on the
rest of the blade just to make sure it's
fully saturated and now all again brush
some on the cord from the power face
side of the blade and again we're trying
to get
a lot of resin onto that cord
alright so now I'm going to give another
heat treatment to help lower the
viscosity that epoxy get it drawn into
that cord
[Applause]
as I do this you see the wood outgassing
a little bit as a wood heats up the air
trapped in the wood gets forced out of
the grain and bubbles up through the
epoxy that's not a necessarily a
desirable thing in itself but it does so
that the wood is getting warm and those
bubbles will get scraped off if I hit it
briefly with the heat you see the
bubbles pop but the wood is warm so it's
a driving air out of that grain so now
I'm going to just scrape off the excess
resin I don't want a whole lot of resin
on here I just want enough to saturate
that cord and then I'll take a rag and
get rid of any drips and sags excess
resin I'm going to try and avoid hitting
the cord itself any excess resin there I
want it to just get soaked in but I
don't want any drips
so that's it for this episode in the
next episode we'll fiberglass the blade
and get a fill coat on it so if you
liked this episode give me a thumbs up
if you're enjoying this whole series hit
subscribe if you're really into what I'm
doing here go over to my patreon page
and ship in a little bit every little
bit helps so once again thanks for
watching and happy paddling.

Sculpting the Blades

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 18:04
Sculpting the Blades nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 17:04

This is the hardest part of the process. I use a right angle grinder to do some freehand shaping and then refine the shape with hand tools. I try to make the edges of the blade nice and thin to keep the paddle light, while leaving the central section of the blade full thickness for strength.

The most common mistake is to leave the blade too thick because you are scared to go too far and make it too thin. Don't be too much of a wuss about it, aim for 1/8" thick all the way around the edge with a nice smooth taper from the middle. The blade eventually gets reinforced with fiberglass which makes it very tough and strong.


[Music]
hey welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade and we're
working on making kayak paddles. so in
this episode I'm gonna start shaping the
blade I'll use some power tools to do
some rough shaping then start working
with some hand tools and finish up with
hand tools to get a really refined final
shape at this point the blade still has
that original taper that we cut into the
blade blanks it's about a half inch here
and tapers down to about a quarter inch
at this end and that's all the way
through the width of the blade this is a
pretty heavy blade right now I want to
take off quite a bit of weight I want
this taper to provide strength but I
don't need the full width all the way
out to the edge I'd like to get it down
to about 1/8 inch all the way around the
perimeter so that's two-and-a-half or
three millimeters something like that so
I'm just going to take and Mark around
this edge an eighth inch
people are generally afraid to take too
much wood off their paddle and end up
with a really heavy war-club obviously
you believe it thicker it's going to be
stronger my intention is to put
fiberglass on this and that's going to
give it a huge amount of strength so I
can take this down quite thin and still
have a strong paddle and have it be
lightweight I'm also gonna put a
reinforced edge all the way around it so
even though it's then it's gonna be a
good tough paddle so I want to mark that
eighth inch all the way around the
perimeter of all the blades
with the blades cut out and roughly
shaped it's now time to do the fine
shape and get it down where we want it
or at least a lot closer at this point
I've got the square edges left from the
shaft and it comes in at a sharp angle
here it's still quite thick back here so
I want to get it down to this eighth
inch thick mark that I made earlier and
I want to create a smooth transition in
the throat of the paddle here from the
back of the blade onto the shaft so
there's not a stress riser there again
this is going to get fiberglassed I want
the fiberglass to wrap smoothly around
that surface I want to continue this
radius down the shaft a bit on both
sides and then blend the blade up into
that so I'm going to be removing wood
from the blade to create the fillit I'm
gonna be removing wood from the shaft to
create the round over I don't want to
lose a lot of wood from the shaft
blending into that filler I want most of
the wood to be in the blade that I'm
removing so this is what it should look
like when I'm done with this process so
again I've got a nice smooth fill it up
in here the blade is about an eighth of
an inch thick both sides the radius of
this shaft continues down onto the blade
and again you can see the full with the
blade stock right in here but it quickly
rounds down to the thin shape of the
blade here in the middle of the blade is
just sort of crown slightly coming out
to eighth inch on either side I want
that all nice and smooth I'm using a
variety of tools for this the first
thing I'm doing is just starting to
round off this corner here and I'll use
a block plane or something like that
just to start to blend that in so when I
go to do this radius in here I don't
have that wood blocking my view of
what's going on so that radius is made
with the black plane and like this then
I'd take my right angle grinder and I've
got one of these nasty carbide I think
these are called the Galahad or
something like that right angle grinder
attachment and this is a coarse carbide
that really removes wood fast it has no
flex at all to it so it doesn't blend
well it tends to where you touch it it
cuts so I'm using that to remove most of
the wood in that little Philadelphia
tool here and I use this because it
removes a lot of wood really quickly
again it's not precision particularly
it's not going to do a fine job you know
it can with practice but that's not why
I'm using if I'm using it just to hog
the wood out and then I come in with my
other right angle grinder I've got 36
grit on here now you use that to start
to thin the blade down along the edges
here blending it in from the middle and
blending in whatever gouge I made with
the blue tool here and blending that
down to the side I use a couple
different tools to refine the shape in
here this microplane about a three
quarter inch diameter it's really nicely
up in there and I can use that to carve
away the wood and to start to blend this
in fare that out a little bit again I'm
trying not to cut into the shaft itself
I'm just trying to hit the darker wood
here and make a radius so it comes up
and smoothly connects with that surface
there the final shaping I'm doing with
this little luthiers plane it's got a
rounded sole on it and that again fits
right in there I'm looking to get rid of
all signs of the glue right in that seam
right there I also use a block plane to
come and refine this surface here ferret
out the right angle grinders again and
not very good at faring they're just
removing a lot of wood quickly and you
know I'd rather not use
the right angle grinders they take a lot
of dust in the air that's why I've got
the my dust collector here set up to try
and bring in a lot of that dust that I'm
making with the right angle grinder but
I can do a good job of fairing this down
again I'm aiming for that eighth inch
line I made along the edge send it down
all the way around and this makes the
blade lighter and makes it cut into the
water more smoothly and that will make a
really nice paddle so since I am using
the right angle grinder I have my set up
for working on this based around my dust
collection here that sawhorses and neat
aside I clamp the piece down to the
sawhorse over my dust collection so
hopefully most of the fine dust gets
immediately sucked into the dust
collector and I'm working on one side at
a time so I can clamp it either way and
work on this side comfortably it
wouldn't hurt for me to have this a
little bit higher but this is my
sawhorse height and so that's where I'm
going with again it's a matter of
getting rid of this excess wood in here
blending it into the shaft blending this
shaft down making everything nice and
smooth thin lightweight and still strong
[Music]
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
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[Music]
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
[Applause]
[Applause]
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
[Applause]
so now I'm going to do some cleanup on
the backside here just blend it all in
nicely it's a little bit hard to do good
planing the way I had it when I was
doing the grinding over the dust
collection there so here I have the
cut-offs from some of the blanks it just
give me a good support and this way I
can get a plane on there and apply some
pressure before I do that I need to
reestablish my eighth inch thickness
line around the edge here because I'd
sanded it off in the prior step so I'll
just go once again draw a neat ditch
line out here so at this point I want to
get this blade nice and uniformly thick
get the blend in here really smooth and
nice
make sure there's no to the flat spots
on the back face here and I'll use a
variety of tools to work on that I still
have the micro plane I've got a foam
block with some 16 80 grit sandpaper on
it there's some 80 grit sandpaper on the
sanding block the block plane I still
have my little
luthiers planed and get a variety of
rasp this is one of those Japanese flow
grasps Nicholson here see what it ended
up using a little rat tail file so
whatever I need to get into these shapes
and just blend everything together
[Music]
right here at the throat of the blade
where this shaft and the blade converge
we want to blend this all together so
there's no sharp edges there and get
that the cedar of the blade here to plan
smoothly in to the shaft to the Sitka
spruce and get a nice rounded corner at
the throat of the blade here so I'm
using a variety of tools to get in there
and just blend that all in and the
rounded edge of sandpaper on a foam
block again 60 or 80 grit does a really
nice job getting right in there and that
will make a nice
[Music]
and we'll do the same thing on the other
side so you see here it starts with a
square edge with straight edges on it
and we want to blend that into a nice
curved edge
so that's it for this episode so that's
it for this episode in the next episode
we'll do some finish sanding and put an
edging around the blade and if I'm lucky
I'll get some glass on the blades as
well we'll see how far we get in the
next episode if you enjoyed this episode
and learned anything give it a like or a
thumbs up share it with your friends and
subscribe to my youtube channel or
follow my Facebook page if you're really
into it I have a patreon page it
contributes to the production of these
videos and every little bit of support
helps so until the next episode thanks
for watching and happy paddling.

Gluing on the Blades and Initial Shaping

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 17:49
Gluing on the Blades and Initial Shaping nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 16:49

Even though the blades of these paddles may be feathered, they are still glued on straight and square on the shaft. It helps to cut away some of the shaft on the power face of the blade before gluing on the blades, but this is not required.

I use the Tite-Bond III to glue the blades on either side of the shaft. The thin end of the blade aligned with the tip of the shaft and the thicker end is towards the middle of the shaft. Some good long clamps are nice for this process, but you could wrap everything with string or stretch wrap to hold it all while the glue dries.

I use my thickness sander to flatten out the power face of the paddle, but you can do it with hand tools such as a spoke shave. Likewise with the back face of the blade. Here we are just working on the outer end of the blade at first.

When the flattening process is done I cut out the outline of the blade shape. You can use your favorite paddle as a pattern, just remember to flip the pattern over for each end of the paddle.


[Music]
hey welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade I'm working on
a laminated kayak paddle in this episode
I'll glue the blades on and start rough
shaping the blade and shaft so I'll
start by saying the blade flat on the
front and then cut out the blade shape
and then work on starting to round over
the shaft so we'll get right to it now
we're ready to glue the blades on so I
have four blade halves here and I'll
take them off in pairs so this will be
prepare for one blade this will be the
pair for another blade and then we end
for end one and so now we have a fairly
closely matching set right there and
another fairly closely matching set
right here so we'll just give it a
little dry fit and I'm going to line up
the tips lightly clamp it here I'll line
up the butt end you can have it slightly
proud there and then it'll go like that
so now that we know it fits together we
will unclamp it put some glue on it
re clamp it up and do the next one
[Applause]
[Music]
so I had my drum sander set up with 36
grit sandpaper and I've taken and
leveled out this surface here I gotten
the shaft even with the blades and the
blades flat all the way across so we
still have the curvature here it's just
that it's flat all the way across here
so 36 grit
I used that because it's very quick and
since I had that in place also I then
worked on leveling the back just from
the middle of the blade towards the tip
I've still got a quarter inch of
thickness here in these blades I'm
eventually going to get these down to
1/8 but I just want to start getting
that shape down so at the tip here is
flat all the way across on the back face
and the power face and that's what 36
grit I will replace the sanding paper on
this with 80 grit to just give that a
finer finish and then final sanding with
this will come much later after I've
done a lot more shaping
modern kayak paddle blades are
asymmetrical so you see here I've got a
bit of an angle on this blade it's the
tip is offset at a bit of an angle the
area in both sides of the centerline is
the same but the topside is pushed a
little bit out in the bottom side is
pushed a little bit in the theory being
there's as you put the paddle in the
water you're coming in at a bit of an
angle and this will create less torque
on the paddle as you start to apply
power you know in all honesty this
probably only really matters and really
high-performance paddlers Olympic level
paddlers and you know chances are they
don't care either
I find the the most common thing this
does just point out the newbies the
people that don't know how to kayak
first time with the paddle they'll often
end up with the paddle upside down you
know that's kind of a silly thing but
you know it's used to make fun of people
who don't know how to paddle I think a
symmetrical paddle would work just as
well for our modern needs but the style
these days is this asymmetrical paddle
has been that way for quite a while and
frankly I kind of like the look I think
it looks cool to be a little bit
asymmetrical so for an aesthetic reason
I go ahead and continue to do it but if
you want a symmetrical paddle go for it
don't let the fun not seize make fun of
you for it so I'm just taking this
template centering it on the blade and
then tracing the shape onto the paddle
in preparation for cutting this out
but as a consequence of the asymmetry we
want the left paddle and the right
paddle to be have the longer edge on the
same upper edge so this blade is
actually going to be over on the far end
like this
so this template should be flipped over
like that so I have an A and a B side
and I'm just making sure I flip the
template over before I trace it on so I
have a matched set of blades these rough
blades are a little bit narrower than my
template so what I'm gonna do is I'm
just gonna offset it so this side comes
out even over there and I'll offset it
equally the other way just putting the
centerline so it's on either side of
that accent strip and so that will work
just fine it's hard to see on the dark
wood
[Music]
[Music]
so this is a half inch radius round over
a bit on the router so I conceivably
could make a one-inch diameter dowel
with this round over back the shafts of
these are 1 in 1/8 by 1 and 1/4 so this
doesn't quite round it over it ends up
with a little bit of a flat spot on each
face works out well as far as the
bearing bearing these a flat spot to
wrap run against if I tried to make a
dowel on this with this bearing it would
end up cutting into it over cutting on
the subsequent collects after the first
one I'm just starting to round these
over I'm bringing it as close to the
blade as I can the full-length shafts
straight shafts I can obviously just do
the whole thing from blade to blade here
I've got the scarf I don't want to come
too close to this scarf I want to keep
it square at the corners here so I can
do the blending together so I'll come
quite close to the scarf but I'll leave
the corners at the scarf itself
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
[Music]
so these shafts have a good initial
shape they've got some flat spots on
them top and bottom left and right side
but it's a good starting point I'll do
some more work on refining the shape in
the long run I want to make sort of an
egg shape with the narrow part where the
knuckles are so again good starting
point and I'll blend these in by hand
when I did glue the scarfs up and up in
here I'll blend that into the back so
it's a good start onto the next step so
that about covers it for this episode if
you're enjoying this and you'd like to
build your own paddle I have plans
available there should be a link in the
description building a kayak paddle is a
fun project it's a fairly quick project
and there's a good introduction to some
of the skills you'll need if you want to
build your own boat
there's working with basic tools there's
some fiberglassing involved and it you
know it's something that you can get
done in a couple weekends and have
yourself a really beautiful thing that
works very well and it's a lot of fun
otherwise if you're not into that and
you just like watching the videos but
like to support me hit like share all
those things get the word out more
viewers is more support and I appreciate
all your support if you're really into
it I've got a patreon page again this
should be a link in the description so
in the next episode we'll be working
more on sculpting the shape of the blade
there's quite a bit of shaping to be
done getting the blade much thinner I
want to get it down to 1/8 inch thick
around the edges and have it all blended
together in a nice pleasing shape so
until then thanks for watching and happy
paddling.

Preparing the Shafts - Scarfing and Tapering

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 17:11
Preparing the Shafts - Scarfing and Tapering nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 16:11

Most of the paddles I make are feathered. This means the blades at each end are at an angle relative to each other. This can relieve some stress on the wrist when paddling and help cut through a headwind.

This feathering is achieved by joining two ends of the shaft together in the middle with a scarf. By cutting the scarf at an angle you can achieve the desired angle between the two paddle blades. It is a little tricky, but once you are set up it is very easy to achieve.

I use a sled in the table saw that cuts a taper and holds the shaft material at an angle to the saw blade.

It looks nice to taper the ends of the shaft on either side. This is not required, it just makes the paddle look nicer.

A round over bit helps start make the shaft in to a nice comfortable oval.


hey welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade and I'm working
on making some kayak paddles today I'm
going to cut down the shafts cut some
scarfs on them taper them and hopefully
glue on the paddle blades we'll see how
far we get so I have these uh shaft
blanks here really be good if I had a
jointer I could just clean up one edge
and then run them to through the table
saw get them right down to where I need
them but I don't have a jointer I could
hand playing them but right now I don't
even have a decent vise so I'm just
gonna run them through the table saw
basically cut them in half hopefully
that'll make establish a fairly straight
edge on them and then I'll cut them to
the appropriate width so I put a thinner
blade in my table saw here so I don't
end up with the kerf wasting a lot of
wood that gives me a little bit more
leeway as far as correcting some of the
misalignment in the laminations so we'll
see how it goes
[Music]
so when he ripped this long shaft down
to get to blank to get two shafts one of
them sprung a little bit you see there's
they're touching down at the ends but
there's a gap in the middle and so this
one here is a little bit curved
I would being a natural material and end
up with stresses in it that don't appear
until everything's all cut up not sure
this one's really straight enough to
make a one-piece paddle I'll probably
end up cutting it in half and then
scarfing it back together again and use
it for myself by scarfing it I can sort
of adjust for some of that curvature a
little bit take some of the curvature
out might still not be straight enough
for a customer paddle but really it's
going to be a fine paddle regardless
it'll just look a little wonky and I'll
make a paddle for myself with it I'm
gonna make these paddles 210 centimeters
long I find that's a good length for
most sea kayaking many people will have
a paddle substantially longer that just
makes it harder to use the leverage on
it is working against you so I'm just
going to take lop these off to length
the unfeathered paddles are using one
long piece of wood for their shaft so
I'm just going to cut these two lengths
with the feathered paddles where I have
a scarf in the middle I will use the
scarf to determine the length so first
I'm just going to cut off the rough end
on each of these
[Music]
[Laughter]
[Applause]
I'm going to tea for the end of the
shaft so it narrows down at the end here
so it's full width up at the butt of the
blade and goes down to about the width
of the spline in the end of the blade
you don't have to do this here's one
where I just left it full with the whole
way down it still looks good I think the
taper just kind of looks cool this an
added step doesn't change the function
of the paddle at all it's just an
aesthetic thing I have a sled here for
the table saw goes in here like that I'm
gonna use this to do some tapering so
I've got a fence that I can adjust on
here I'll use the same sled for my
scarfs I can adjust the angle I'd make
the taper on right here so I want to
make a taper that 16 inches long that
comes back to here so I don't want it to
cut it all back at the 16 inch mark so
the width of these is about like that
sometimes gonna pivot it around there
approximately
and now that the tip here I want to
leave the center supplying fully full
with but I want a taper way the Sitka
spruce on either side so out at the end
I want this to taper way to essentially
nothing so looking here I'm going to
place this so it cuts right there
well this back here is that that mark
give it so leave a little bit of a sit
this showing
[Applause]
so the scarfs gonna be an 8 to 1 scarf
and that means for every inch of width
there's gonna be 8 inches of length
scarves can be a variety of different
tapers so I could do a 12 to 1 scarf on
here which would be stronger but I've
used these paddles a long time never
busted a scarf using an 8 to 1 scarf so
I'm just gonna stick with that so I'm
just gonna lay it down here parallel to
that line it doesn't need to be perfect
so if the fence set up to an 8 to 1
scarf if I put the first shaft in like
this with the spine up and then the
other half of the shaft in like this
with the spine horizontal and glued
those two pieces together I've turned
the piece 90 degrees and as a result
when I glue those two pieces together
I'll get a paddle with a 90 degree
feather not many people want a 90 degree
feather these days most people want
something like 60 degrees or 45 degrees
some people want even less in order to
accomplish that I have here
a spacer cut at an angle and this is an
angle of 22 and 1/2 degrees which is
half of 45 I put this in here and now
put this piece in cut this piece like
that and cut the other shaft like that
with the spine horizontal I have
subtracted 22 and 1/2 degrees from each
cut and as a consequence I will get a 45
degree feather
so we've taken 90 degrees minus 22 minus
another 22 which is 45 so I just want to
set up the spacers so they're holding it
at that angle and then when I go to cut
it I'm gonna run this end of the piece
out to the end of the cut here and then
clamp it in place then with the other
shaft I will take and flip it cut it the
other direction clamp it in place and
cut that one like that so it's a pretty
simple process we get that angle by
putting these spaces in so you could do
the same thing by angling the saw blade
tilting the blade work just as well
no trickier but I have it worked out
with my little guy here so if I want to
right hand feather I do it like this if
I want a left hand feather I do it like
that and then it's just a matter of
figuring out what angle for that spacer
I want in there so now I'm just going to
adjust the clamps so I get it easy to
clamp in there so now I'm just going to
adjust the clamps so I get it easy to
clamp in there
so by cutting a test scarf I can figure
out how long the scarf ends up being so
when I go to cut the length of the
feathered paddles
I will get the right length paddle when
I'm all done so this is about 28
centimeters long so that means I need to
add half of that to each half of the
paddle so if I'm doing a 210 centimeter
paddle each half piece is going to be
105 plus 14 so plus the length half the
length of the scarf so the length I want
each blank is half the length of the
paddle plus half the length of the scarf
so that gives me as if it was butted
together Plus now this taper had it on
there so for a 210 again for 210
centimeter paddle I'll take half of that
205 and I will add half the length of
the scarf so the 28 centimeters scarf so
I'll take 14 centimeters as 1/2 the
length of the scarf and add that to the
105 so that is 119 so I'll measure this
out to 119 so that's right there and
right there and we'll cut off that
excess
so now if I clamp these together you go
to get a little weird we line up the
points of the scarf and just try and
make it as straight as possible the
clamp on that and we're right at 210 so
you see how these aren't quite at 90
degrees there's some other weird angle
if the blade comes out this way and on
that way on the other end that'll be at
45 degrees so that's one set of shafts
ready to accept the blades so I'm just
gonna write on here to 10:45 write my
own paddle I want a 60-degree feather so
I have a 15 degree wedge here I'll put
that in and that will take 15 off of
each for a total of 30 so 90 minus 30 is
60 degrees so we'll do this one flat
now comes a really tricky part with the
feathered paddle you want to make it so
that angle is less than 90 degrees
between one blade and the other and
there's two choices on this there's so
this happens to be the the 60-degree
paddle so one side 60 degrees which is
30 degrees less than 90 degrees and the
other side is 30 degrees greater than 90
degrees so it is possible to put the
blades on this such a way that is
feathered at 120 degrees and we don't
want that that rule would require over
rotating your wrists and making it
really uncomfortable so what you want to
do is hold the paddle you hold your
shaft and the way you think you're gonna
hold it and remember the blades are
coming out perpendicular to this taper
so I put a little you mark here showing
the way the paddle blade is going to
curve so we're gonna put a curved paddle
blade on this something like this so
it's curved this way so it's going to go
on here like this so I'm putting a
little u mark showing which way that's
going to curve so we imagine that
they're glued to the side of that taper
and then we hold that and this is a
right hand feather so I'm going to use
my right hand and rotate my wrist up now
at this end
I want the blade to be cupped backwards
as well so again I've got a little C
mark on there or you mark showing which
way that's going to go so we want that u
facing towards the back facing so the
power face is facing towards your back
so when I rotate from here with the U
mark they're facing back and then I cock
my wrist back
I want that you mark on this end to be
facing backwards as well so you get
those marked on there and the best way
to do it is just pick it up clamp it
together just loosely clamp it together
like this
just give it a try if you're finding you
have to over rotate in order to get that
you mark in the right direction you know
you've got it wrong the unfeathered
paddle is easy we want to just make sure
they're both facing the same direction
so now we've got the marks in all the
shafts now I want to draw on the curve
of the blade so I'm grabbing that same
template I've used all along for marking
that curve and I'm just going to draw
that on here make sure we're following
the same curvature as indicated by our
little mark so that we just went and
figured out so I'm holding the tip and
the tip rate up even
like that so I'm sure they're facing the
same direction so this part above the
line is going to be cut off we don't
need to do this now but it makes it a
little bit easier to align the blades if
we don't have that material there and it
saves some time when we go to shape the
blades so I'm just going to cut outside
that line and get rid of that
[Music]
[Music]
so that's enough for this episode in the
next episode I'll glue the blades on and
start shaping them I do offer plans for
these paddles which include the profile
of the blade and different blade sizes
long narrow short fat as well as the
curvature and details on how to scarf
the shaft together it ends up with a
slightly different blade configuration
than what I'm showing here since I made
the plans I've refined my technique a
little bit what's shown in the plans
works really well it's a nice system
it's a little harder to make but I'm
detailing in this video is a little bit
easier so you could buy the plans and
then build it as shown in a series of
videos offering plans for the paddle and
the boats that I build it's just one way
I financed the videos I'm putting out
here on YouTube and Facebook another way
I financed it is through monetizing the
videos and the interest of that share
these videos like them all that makes
them more visible which makes it more
likely I'll get a better monetization on
it if you really like these videos and
you'd like to support them more directly
I have a patreon page and you can go
there and support me at various levels
every little bit helps I really
appreciate it so until the next video
thanks for watching and happy paddling.

Cutting the Blades

Mon, 02/24/2020 - 16:51
Cutting the Blades nick Mon, 02/24/2020 - 15:51

I use a jig I made for the band saw that helps cut a curved blade, but you can just mark the curves onto your blade blanks and make the cuts free hand. 

The blades are thicker at one end and thinner at the other. I alternate the which end is thick and thin so I move consistently through the blank and so I will have a symmetrically matching set for each end of the paddle. You will need to cut at least 4 of these blades.


hi welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade and I'm working
on making a feathered kayak paddle so
this is your standard kayak paddle and
actually some of them will be feathered
some will be unfeathered but essentially
it's a process for making any kind of
laminated paddle or or whatever so in
this episode I'm going to work on
cutting the blade blanks down into blade
pieces so a couple things I have a jig I
make that is a quick and easy way to cut
the shape of the blades into a nice
consistent curve and so I'm going to
make that jig and then get the paddle
blanks ready to go and then start
cutting some of the blade pieces so
thanks for tuning in and hope you enjoy
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
now I have a blank cut to length this is
a 16 inch long blank so I'm going to cut
blades out of it kind of like this so
these are pre curved blades this happens
to be a 19 inch long blade but that's
the kind of blade I want to cut out of
it so why at one end narrow at the other
end and pre-curved if you look at the
offcut here I laid out the grain so it
is kind of a book match so you can just
make out on the grain here that it comes
out then comes back in I want to have
the curve of this come and be so the
grain at the wide point in the middle
and the narrow point at the end so like
that so here's the narrow and it's wider
down here so you want the curve of the
blade to curve from here kind of like
that so it starts out here where the
grain is narrow coming close together
and then as it goes towards the middle
of the blade it cuts deeper into it
where the grains a little bit wider and
then as it comes back to the end it is
again narrow so when I set up to do the
cut the blades I'm gonna cut the
curvature this way and that's just an
aesthetic thing it doesn't need to be
that way but that's just the way I've
decided kinda looks nice so that's what
I'm gonna set up to do so here I have a
pattern for a blade for that curvature
again wide if the butt-end narrow with
the tip end and this is thicker at the
tip end and it actually needs to be I'll
end up shaving this down more but it
just gives me some room to deal with
misalignment so
a quarter inch here about half an inch
here so I'm just going to trace this
pattern on starting at the very tip so I
got a line there barely visible in the
video and now we're going to take and
swap this in firend
and retrace it so just line that line
back up again and then keep flipping it
back and forth
all right so I've marked it all out and
I should be able to get 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 blades out of it each paddle is going
to use 2 blade 2 of these at each end so
it's going to take 4 and so I should get
2 full paddles out of there plus an
extra blade we'll see if I have a use
for the extra blade but it just gives me
a chance to screw up a little bit and
have a spare so I made a blade cutting
jig on my CNC machine that consists of
essentially a fence this will be the
curve for the 16 inch blade the saw
blade goes right in here and then this
will be the sled where I put the blank
so the blanks go in like this and get
clamped down like that and ride up
against this that's kind of like that
first thing I want to do is to just make
this clamp nice and secure I'm gonna put
some self-adhesive sandpaper on here
just some really core of stuff this is
60 grit and that'll make it so when I
clamp this down the blank won't move
also I'll put some screws through these
holes to just create the clamping
pressure to hold that in place so the
fence piece that's attached to the fence
such the blade will fit in that little
notch and we'll just put some clamps on
it to hold it there and you want to have
it set so it's pretty much even with
this surface here good starting point
then this piece will just run straight
along there so make sure the clamps
the way there's some center fearing a
little bit
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
now obviously you could have made these
freehand without my little jig here but
you see the jig does speed things up
quite a bit you know if you don't have a
bandsaw
you could actually cut each of these
laminations separately into individual
thin pieces and glue those up using a
jigsaw
you know Sabre saw something like that
if you don't have the bandsaw to pre-cut
those curved pieces the bandsaw is
really nice and this jig makes things go
a lot quicker but obviously you could do
this process with some other tools and
end up with the same result might take a
little bit longer but the final paddles
not going to be any worse for it if you
have different set of tools that you
want to do it with so thanks for
watching this episode in the next
episode we'll cut the shafts to size
taper them cut the scarf in them if they
need it and hopefully get the blades
glued on so if you're liking this kayak
paddle build and you'd like to see more
videos like it please support the
channel by subscribing to it liking this
video sharing my videos with other
people and if you're really into it go
over to my patreon page chip a little
bit of money in to support the process
of making these videos it really helps a
lot and I appreciate your support so
until the next video thanks for watching
and happy paddling

Making Kayak Paddles - Preparing the Blanks - E1

Tue, 02/18/2020 - 15:57
Making Kayak Paddles - Preparing the Blanks - E1 nick Tue, 02/18/2020 - 14:57

The blades will be cut out of blanks that are 16"-18" long, about 4" thick and at least 4" wide. With wider blanks you can make more blades. 

In the video I am using 2x8 western red cedar stock and laminating a 1/4" thick piece of ash between the layers of cedar. You can use any combination of wood you would like. Softwoods such as cedar, pine and spruce will be lightweight, hardwoods such as ash, maple, walnut, oak etc. will be strong but if used extensively will make a heavy paddle. The weight of blades will make a big difference on how enjoyable it is to use the paddle.

The shafts I am making here are about 8' long buy 1-1/2" x 1-1/2". They will get cut down to size later. If you use wider material you can laminate up several shafts at a time. You can also use shorter material if you are going to make feathered blades where the blades are at an angle to each other.

I cut the material to size and then glue them together with waterproof PVA glue such as Tite-Bond III. Other glues such as Gorilla or epoxy can also be used.

Hi welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade. Back in the
summer I promise to make some kayak
paddle building videos and now it's
December and I'm just getting to it but
what I'm looking to build is some
paddles like these it's a fairly typical
euro style wide bladed paddle I can make
these in various aspect ratios wide
blade narrow blade long short whatever
this one happens to be a unfeathered
paddle and this one is a feathered so
you see the blade back here as at an
angle to the other blade so the basic
process is I build a shaft and I build
the blades put them together shape them
and it goes from there so working
backwards on the process years apart so
partially built paddles and the blades
I've started to shape the blades on
these they're on shafts I've started to
shape the shaft on this and I've got a
scarf caught in the middle that'll allow
me to glue it in friend and make a
feather paddle the shaft starts as
material like this this is a laminated
shaft
I've got sick of spruce laminated on to
an ash core and this would be perfect
for an unfettered one-piece paddle
otherwise I have a bunch here of half
shafts we're making feathered paddles
these would get a scarf cut on one end
and the blade glued on the other end and
so these are all set up ready to make a
bunch of paddles I've got enough for
four paddles here I've got several of
these shafts made enough to make another
four or five paddles and then the blades
start out like this as a rectangular
blade but it's pre curved and glued to
the shaft so I start with the shaft
something like this and where I've
tapered the ends to put the blade on and
pre-cut a curve on the power fee
so this and this is got a couple scarfs
on it ready to make a nun feathered path
the blades start out as a big block of
wood so here I have a block of wood
already pre-cut into a bunch of blades
so I've pre-cut the curves so this is
scrap this is half a blade this is
another half of light you see that
they're tapered from end to end and I
cut them in opposing tapers so this one
will flip around go like that glue to
the side of a shaft and that will be the
blank for a blade so what I'm going to
do is glue up some more blade blanks and
glue up some more shaft blanks I've got
a little bit of wood here in various
various kinds of woods and we'll see
what I can put together to make a few
good paddles I have these shafts and
blades already made and sold probably
end up gluing together some of those so
I can start shaping those so in choosing
the woods I want to use while making the
paddle I have a couple things I want to
keep in mind I want lightweight and I
want strong in this case I use for the
main body the blade I use western red
cedar this is a nice dark western red
cedar very lightweight it's not the
strongest wood you know for its weight
it's quite strong but to reinforce that
a little bit I've got these accents here
and ash it just gives a little bit more
stiffness to the blade the blade is also
fiberglass which gives a lot of strength
we'll get into that later and then for
the shaft my go-to wood is Sitka spruce
this happens to be Sitka spruce again
lightweight and quite strong but to give
it a little bit more stiffness I like to
put some hardwood in the lamination just
to stiffen it up in the center of the
lamination so in this case it happens to
be mahogany
I'll typically use ash and there also
I'll look through my wood stacks and see
what I've got
so here I have some Sitka spruce this is
2 and 3/4 inches wide by 2 an 1/8 thick
and here we have some walnut which is 2
and 3/4 wide by 7/8 thick so I think I
can get a couple good shafts out of this
the typical shaft dimensions I want are
one in an eight by one and a quarter so
it's a little oval-shaped when it's
finished now it's determining a
trade-off between light weight and stiff
so the Sitka spruce will keep it light
the more Sitka spruce there is the
lighter will be and then the walnut the
hard wood will stiffen it up the more
hardwood that's in it the stiffer it
will be but they have your LP so finding
that trade-off between light weight and
stiff it depends on how you're gonna use
a little bit and what's your goals for
the paddle are and then just seeing what
we have available for material so I
think what I'm going to try to do is
resaw this walnut approximately in half
then plane that down to thickness see
what I've got and then use that to
determine what sort of dimensions I'm
going to cut the Sitka spruce at so I
get my final dimensions I think I'll be
able to rip this into enough laminations
and listened to enough laminations that
I should be able to get two paddles out
of the width of this and then those
blanks can be ripped in half so I can
get a couple more shafts out of that my
first plan is to resaw this
approximately in half so we'll aim this
is 7/8 blade thickness is about 1/8 so
if we run this a 3/8 we should be able
to get to 3/8 pieces out of it
approximately
probably thicker than they need but I
complain him down afterwards so this
will cut all the way through in one pass
it might be a little hard on it but I
think it'll work fine and then I'll have
that Rees on and I complain it to
thickness
[Music]
so when I got these walnut pieces cut
down and got rid of all the rough spots
and blade burned so forth I'm down to a
quarter-inch thick here so so we have a
quarter inch thick for this I want a one
in 1/8 thick shaft when I glue it the
SIPC on either side I want 108 so that's
nine eighths and I'm gonna take away two
eighths so we're going to end up with
seven eighths and I want equal amount on
either side so that's going to be seven
sixteenths so we'll cut something a
little bit oversized from seven
sixteenths and the Spruce to glue on
either side so with the Sitka spruce
here you see it's got a little bit of a
curve to it looking down that length
it's got a little bit of a curve it's
not a big deal because when I laminate
it together
I can laminate it straight I'll take the
two halves flip them around so then the
stress balances on each one of them put
them back together glue them together
straight and they should stay straight
the problem is I'd like to cut this side
up against the fence
so instead of trying to straighten it
out I'll just run the curved edge along
the fence unfortunately this is the
rough face so I'm just gonna run this
through the plane to get it down to my
smooth face so it'll run consistently
through the saw and we'll have a nice
clean cut
so when I'm left with here is a piece
that's one in 7/8 thick I need to cut at
least 7/16 pieces out of this so four of
those would end up being just perfect
but that's not going to be able to get
that given the curve for the blade even
if I went with a thinner kerf I couldn't
get it so what I'm gonna do is cut a
bunch that are just over a half inch
thick and playing those down to the 7/16
I need that way if I have any flaws and
I cut I can get them right down perfect
and so we'll aim for a little bit over
1/2 inch thick so here we have one
that's 5/8 thick and these are each 9/16
and about 9/16 so we'll just go me
through the plane a few times get them
cleaned up and get them down to 7/16
[Music]
so lefties about 1/32 oversize so when I
glue everything together it'll be about
1/16 oversize and then I can run it
through the plane again get everything
straightened out if there's any added
flaws just taking a 30 second off each
side so I've got some nice-looking
Western redcedar here for the blades
what I want to do is choose which one of
these I'm going to use and a couple
things to keep in mind a is the collar
you know I like the collar I think this
will look really nice it's a nice reach
it's a nice rich dark brown and then we
want to look at the grain here you see a
lot of wide grain and this one and here
it's very narrow but if we think about
how the blades are going to be cut so
this is a sample blade basically we're
taking this to biomaterial like that and
then we're going to cut a blade out of
it so I like to have sort of vertical
grain in the blade or close to vertical
so when I look at these I want to get
close to vertical on these it can be a
little bit hard to see what the grain is
if i zoom in right here
you know the saw blades make some marks
there it's hard to distinguish the grain
from the saw mark so I'm gonna do is
just so there you can get a little bit
better look at the grain and you can see
diagonals running this way so this is
pretty close to vertical this one so
here it's diagonal like this but up here
it's diagonal like that so it's close to
the flat one we cut through this way
where this one's going to be closer to
vertical all the way across it's going
to be a little bit more uniform with
good diagonal lines like that
so this one sort of has a better grain
orientation to get those vertical grain
pieces so I'm gonna select this one I'll
put this one back in the stack and we'll
work on breaking that down so the
longest blades I make a 21 inches so I'm
gonna cut these and to 21 inch long
sections approximately so for the spline
in the blades I'm going to use some ash
we've got a nice piece of ash here and
likewise I'll cut this into 21 inch
sections get a little bit of a check
down here so I'll cut that off and get
some 21 inch sections and then these
will be ripped down to about five and a
half inches wide and resaw into thinner
pieces so for the spline in the blades
I'm going to use some ash we've got a
nice piece of ash here and likewise I'll
cut this into 21 inch sections get a
little bit of a check down here so I'll
cut that off and get some 21 inch
sections and then these will be ripped
down to about five and a half inches
wide and resaw into thinner pieces
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
I just got some new clamps and I have a
tendency to get glue all over my clamps
so I'm gonna put a little wax on them
just to make the glue peel off better
should I get cool
[Music]
these pieces were cut out of the board
like this so you can see the continuous
grain goes across there what I'm gonna
do is just fold this piece back and that
way the grain here it'll match and you
see it it's coming out and diagonals
like this and diagonals like that so
essentially we've got a book match on
these two pieces and as a result these
two pieces here will be as close to each
other as they can be and what's going to
happen when we cut through these is
we're cutting in a curve and if we pay
attention to the direction we cut these
curves it will influence the shape of
the grain and the cut pieces so for
example here you see on this one the
grain comes out and back in again in a
bit of a mirror image there and so we're
trying to get as much of a mirror image
as we can here and I like this pattern
where the grain sweeps back in at the
ends better than when it sweeps out just
a synthetic thing and I think it mimics
the shape of the paddle wolf so we're
gonna take these two pieces take a piece
of ash throw them in between and so
that's gonna be the blank we're gonna
glue up I sanded both these surfaces so
this is a good gluing surface there and
we'll apply some glue in between clamp
it together
I'm gonna be using tape on three here
this is waterproof honestly it doesn't
really need to be on the paddle blades
it's going to be the blades are going to
be covered with fiberglass but I'm gonna
be using this same stuff on the shafts
where the shafts even though they're
going to be varnished have a little bit
more chance of getting wet so I'm going
to just make sure I'm using a waterproof
glue on that you could use epoxy you
could use a urethane glue like a gorilla
glue something like that I've used just
about anything those powdered glues that
you're a formaldehyde glue a believe
I've used that works very nicely lots of
things work quite well on that when I go
to glue this up I'm going to stack all
of blanks together so I save on clamps
and get a little bit better clamping
that way a little bit more efficient so
this is going to be together like this
so I'll put glue on these surfaces and
both surfaces of the ash and assemble it
that way
[Music]
[Music]
so these blanks are all glued together
I'll just put those aside and start
gluing up the shaft again these two
pieces are curved a little bit but I'm
putting them opposite each other so they
can balance out and end up with a nice
balanced laminate with this one where I
only have one extra piece I'm going to
take cut it in half actually cut the
center piece in half too and that'll end
up with as two half shafts that I can
scarf together to make a feather paddle
[Music]
[Music]
so to make sure everything glows up
straight I'm just going to clamp this
these shafts down to my workbench it is
8 for Chasse they're going to each foot
work bench and that should keep
everything nice and straight so that's
the shafts all glued up we've got the
blade blanks all glued up and in the
next episode I'll start cutting these
down into real shafts and real blades
and maybe we'll see what we can get
glued together tomorrow let me just talk
a little bit about wood selection you
know I did those blade blanks as three
laminations essentially you can laminate
up these in any combination of woods you
like it's a great opportunity to be a
little bit imaginative with it come up
with some new interesting layups and
things that just look cool lots of wood
are good for this here I'm using cedar
and ash Cedars always a good choice for
light weight you could use Sitka spruce
and the blades any kind of cedar white
cedar is great pine would work just fine
you can go to Home Depot and get some
nice clear pine and just stack a bunch
of laminations up for that and make a
really nice blade
same with the shaft I have some where
I've made this shaft out of western red
cedar it's not quite as strong as Sitka
but and good lamination you can make
something really strong and lightweight
one nice thing about the lamination is
you can take relief sort of crappy wood
and turn it into something quite strong
by offsetting any flaws in the woods so
they're not all lined up even naughty
stuff you can saw it up into thin pieces
glue it back together again
random orientation and end up with
something pretty strong so lamination is
a fun way to be imaginative
and it's a good way to use lesser
quality wood and make it into something
sort of better quality so if you're
finding this interesting and you'd like
to see more like this hit like subscribe
or go over to my patreon and chip in a
little bit to help support the effort it
takes to put these videos together I
really appreciate any support you can
provide so until the next episode thanks
for watching and happy paddling.

Stripping The Deck - Petrel Kayak Build - E5

Tue, 02/18/2020 - 15:34
Stripping The Deck - Petrel Kayak Build - E5 nick Tue, 02/18/2020 - 14:34

I scarf together sheer strips and then strip the deck up to before installing some accent strips at the deck feature lines

This is the Strip Built Petrel design.

Support my Patreon at: https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade

Tools:

hey welcome to Episode Five of building
the Petrel strip built sea kayak in
this episode we will be working on
stripping the deck I apologize for the
sound in advance I had the problem with
my microphone it was recorded over a
year ago so not much they can do about
it now but let's get right to it
I've cut down another shear strip for
the deck I scarfed it together to have a
long piece out of the dark wood and then
I've tapered the ends so basically I'm
ready at this point to start beveling
this edge so I get a nice tight joint on
the outside there again we're trying to
get essentially a miter between the hull
and the deck here doesn't need to be
perfect we'll have a chance to clean it
up later but we just want to get it
close so we've done a number the forum's
just to make it easy to drop things back
into place so on to by the time we get
to seven basically no beveling is
required so from here we'll take a block
plane and just eyeball the gap there and
try and match the gap
[Music]
[Music]
so the Geo strips join it the balance
turn just like this and so I want to
make a miter between those two before I
do that since I'm going to put some glue
in there I just want to put a little bit
of masking tape over the inner stem
there so things don't get cleared down
so this is going to come straight out
and meet in the sharp point
something like that and then to get a
good tight fit on I'll just run saw
through it again that's a good tight fit
they can put a little glue in there hold
that together with a little tape
I'm also gonna clip off that sharp point
because that's just gonna break off
eventually anyways so I'm gonna do an
alternating herringbone on the deck and
that means the second set of strips run
down the center line and then the third
set will run along the shear line center
line shear line center line shear line
sentiments your line etc and we have a
cockpit in the middle so we only need to
go as far as the cockpit you'll see the
first flat form is where the cockpit is
I want to make sure I'm into the cockpit
so I'm gonna cut it off even with that
form so I want a cove out situation here
since I'm gonna be doing this
alternating thing I always want the cove
out so I'm always fitting a strip into a
cove so I took a couple strips and I
ripped the bead off and now I have two
opposing coves and this will fit right
up into the end and run down the center
line as far as the cockpit and I could
take one strip and put coals on both
sides and just run that up the middle
and that would work great however I do
like to get a little bit of a natural v
up near the bow I think it looks good so
back here it's going to be rounded and a
smooth transition from left to right
side up and here I do want a little bit
of an angle there so there's a little
feature aligned Ridge right down the
middle so by having two pieces I can
naturally get that and I'll end up doing
a little bit of beveling on these strips
to get them so they middle
a bit of an angle but only so far as a
couple forms back yet so I'm gonna start
by just putting that a little bit of a
bevel in there so I start to form that
feet next I want to put points on these
strips so they fit up into the valve
right there between those two sheer
strips I'm just going to get this
centered so the intersection here is on
the same on both sides
mark that tape
and that looks like it'll probably be a
pretty good fit I just need to put a
bead on each of those edges so beads
pretty easy to create just take knock
the corners off and then knock the
corners off the corners
it looks good
so there's some tape curves right here
just above the shear line as it's
transitioning to the back deck and the
normal width strip would end up being
pretty far off the forms back here so
there's a pretty big gap right back here
with a regular width strip so I ended up
cutting some half-inch wide strips by
just taking one of my regular strips
cutting it to half-inch by cutting the
cove off and then re running it through
and re-establishing a cove on there and
with these the narrower strips conform
to that shape a little bit better and
then when I go to put the next strip on
that'll be a better fit so I have these
half inch wide strips I'm going to use
those on either side on the next to the
shear and these strips are 17 feet long
and we're following the shear line here
which is on the 17 foot boat is a little
bit longer than 17 feet so these strips
end up a few inches shy of being
full-length so I have some extra strips
here and what I'm going to do is fit one
of these strips at one end fit another
strip at the other end and then make it
joint someplace here in the middle just
a butt joint in that way I can get the
fit easily
without worrying about the length and
just do the length adjustment by cutting
that butt joint in the middle I've got a
simple little miter box here that I can
just use to cut off the end of the strip
where I'm going to make the butt joint
it's got a little bit of an angle to it
not much
it's nothing magical about this it's
just by using this I can get good
consistent joints whenever I cut the
butt joint and it's simple simple easy
to make just a couple scraps of plywood
around a piece of wood quick and easy so
I'm just going to cut off the end of the
strip here with this now this ends cut
to a known angle and if I use the miter
box on the other piece it'll cut a
matching angle
I cut this over long that way I don't
have to deal with the excess swinging
around there but I still have room to
work
[Music]
so I have a full-length strip here
now the 17-foot strips are long enough
to go all the way from the bow to the
stern here the tricky part is I need to
fit this end up into the cove and have
it exactly the right length so when I
glue it all in it's tight there and it's
tight here so I've dry fit it here and
put some clamps some little clamping
jigs on it to hold it in place while I
make some measurements so with it fit
into the cove all the way down here
I'm gonna take and get this tight in
there as far as I can get and then make
a line just a mark like that I tend to
use a double line just so it doesn't get
confused with other marks I make on the
boat so this means when these lines are
lined up it's the right length to fit
all the way up in the bow so I can now
unclamp the whole thing and just work on
this end and try and get these joints
lined up get those marks lines so I have
unclamp the far end and now I just want
to work on getting the length right so
here the those marks are lined up
perfectly right there but I want to give
myself some room for error so I'm gonna
slide it to make it a little bit longer
so I've got about an inch between the
marks now
and so the strips gonna come up to about
here let's all take and lop it off with
that blank
now I want to fit the taper up into
there so this is where it's going to be
when it's lined up I've got enough
length here to work on it a little bit
and so I'm just gonna line this up with
that the end of the gap here and then
see where it's the same width so I'm
just gonna line it up with the end of
the gap here and then see where it
overlaps the strip on the other side
make a mark there and then just draw out
that taper so it's gonna look something
like that
and I'll take and cut off most of that
excess now I want to plane it down to
the line so it's down to the line now I
want to bead on there so I'm going to
cut the corner off both corners and then
cut the corner off those corners so I
get a pretty good approximation of a
bead on there light it up and see how it
goes into that gap this is quite a bit
of upward curvature here in the end so
it's gonna stress the strip a little bit
I'm sticking it into the cove there and
using the cove to help guide it up feel
pressed up into that Cove all right so
it's bottomed out here it's still a bit
of a gap there actually that's not too
bad for a first effort
so we still have an inch here of excess
length in order to make it fit at the
other end so even though though this is
perfect the lengths not perfect so we've
got to trim this down some more and one
thing to remember is there's a inch inch
difference in length here that means I
want to take an inch off in length here
approximately so that's going to be
cutting this back at the tape or
something like that so I'm not taking an
inch off this bevel I'm taking an inch
off the length we want to make sure we
don't mess up the the bevel angle here
still have a half inch or so to go back
here this fit looks pretty good maybe a
little bit loose up here in the toe and
tighten the heel although if this really
sunk down in there there's a bit of a
gap in that but that's not bad just Cove
in there with the bead up in the cove
that'll be a pretty tight joint but I
just still need to take some length off
that's pretty darn good for length it's
off by maybe three 30 seconds let's go
and try and make it fit so we'll glue it
up staple it in go on to the next one
so I'm at the point now where the strips
coming up the side have reached the edge
of the cockpit as a consequence I no
longer need to have full-length strips
going from one end to the other I can
start at the bow come back to the
cockpit sort of the stern come up to the
cockpit and leave the cockpit hole open
and makes fitting a lot easier I don't
need to worry about getting the length
perfect I just need to fit the ends and
have them overhang the cockpit hole
I just want to make sure I have enough
wood there to get past the edge of the
cockpit
there's a little feature line on the
back deck and I actually have it on the
front deck also but it's more subtle on
the back deck where the deck comes up
rounded and has a bit of an angle and
then flat I've got that marks right here
and here and on the back deck is quite
subtle but I think it highlights the
shape of the boat nicely and what I want
to do is put an accent on that feature
line right here right here and I'll do
the same up at the bow of the boat but
for now I'm just concerned about the
back deck and you see this feature line
starts it's a couple strips away here
here it's less than a strip and it
continues up to about here and so what I
plan to do is just strip over that
section and trim it back put in an
accent stripe and then I'll continue
stripping so I want to do is make sure
I've got that feature line covered with
strips and then I'll come back after the
glue is dried and reach from that and
put in the accent so I'm just going to
put in a couple short pieces of strip
here get them glued and stapled and
placed let that dry and then while I'm
working on the foredeck this should be
drying up and I should be able to come
back and trim back that feature along
so I'll come back later mark this out
and trim that off and then continue
stripping on the front deck the feature
lines a little bit more obvious you see
there's a quite distinct angle right
there but I've got a few more strips
before I get there at least two before I
start to get this and then I'll cover
the lower section like I did on the back
deck and then come trim that off and
then continue stripping the deck above
that same on both sides so I'm just
looking for strips to run from the point
up here back to the cockpit the cockpit
starting to shorten up here they're
starting to get farther forward so I'll
just make sure I step beyond the edge of
the cockpit and I want to make sure I
strip beyond the edge of that feature I
put the glue in here I'm not putting a
lot of glue just enough to get a little
bit of squeeze out when I go to put the
strip in I want it dripping out the
strength of the boats
[Music]
so I'm up to the point where I've gone
past the feature line at this forum so
now I'm just gonna fill up past the
feature line on this side then go do the
same on the other side so just find
whatever strips I have that are long
enough to get past it and them in place
notice that as I put these strips up to
come to the feature line I don't try and
wrap over the feature line I don't try
and bend it down on to the flatter deck
to pass that angle I want to have it
come up matching that angle then I'll
trim it off and come in from the other
side
okay that's enough for today that's a
long episode the next episode we'll
finish up stripping up the deck we'll
put an accent at the feature line and
just close up the deck and maybe we'll
get to putting some of the combing in
we'll see how far we get how long that
episode runs I didn't expect this
episode to go as long but I figured I'd
get all the relevant stuff in in one
episode and the next episode will be
something a little bit different so if
you liked this episode if you're
interested to see what's coming up
subscribe turn on notifications hit like
all of that good stuff
if you'd like to provide some direct
support to these videos my patreon site
will let you contribute a little bit to
the production you know monthly amount
small monthly amount and I really
appreciate it every bit helps you can
also go to my website and buy plans for
this design and other sea kayaks
recreational kayaks row boats canoes etc
I have a nice selection of a small car
tappable boats with all of my design and
there's really something special about
going out on a boat you built yourself
so until the next episode thanks for
watching and happy paddling

Stripping to Music - microBootlegger Sport - E19

Tue, 02/18/2020 - 15:12
Stripping to Music - microBootlegger Sport - E19 nick Tue, 02/18/2020 - 14:12

I didn't put much dialog on this video Continuing on the bottom. Fitting both ends of strips in a precise manner.

Tools:

Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade

Music:
  • Tupelo Train - Chris Haugen
  • Front Porch Blues - Chris Haugen
  • Center Ring - Freedom Trail Studio

Into the Mystic - microBootlegger Sport - E18

Tue, 02/18/2020 - 14:17
Into the Mystic - microBootlegger Sport - E18 nick Tue, 02/18/2020 - 13:17

Continuing on the bottom. Fitting both ends of strips in a precise manner.

Tools:

Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site: https://www.patreon.com/NickSchade

Music:

[Music]
hi welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks
shop I'm Nick Schade. Yesterday I took a
day off from the shop to go down to the
road to Mystic Seaport my friend Dave
Fasulo had some of his students there
doing some boat building and they were
building like ganymede kayak then all
comes on the staff of Mystic Seaport and
he was guiding two of day's students to
the building of the stitching glue kayak
and using my ganymede design chesapeake
light craft had provided them with a kit
and Ben was showing them the steps of
doing filling and putting glass on the
scenes so that was a fun break to just
wander around the Seaport briefly and
see what they were up to and today I'm
back in the shop and I'm going to be
working on trimming up the chine line
throwing it up and then stripping from
there up to the keel line I probably
won't close off the bottom today but
like to make some good progress in the
last episode when we've left off the
micro bootleggers Sport build I have
just added strips up to the chine line
and I left off without throwing up that
new edge so like we did on the other
side back in whatever episode that was
I'm going to mark out the where the
chine line is going to be sawed off
playing it down through get the bevel
right and then from there we can start
adding strips across the bottom so I'm
not going to spend a lot of time talking
about what I'm doing trimming out this
giant line if you want to see how I go
about doing that go back to the other
episode I'll try and put a link up here
let me just get to work on this see if I
can knock this off pretty quick and
we'll go from there
[Music]
I tried clamping my spline below my
marks and putting the clamps here where
you have to jump around with the pencil
just because I don't have a lot to clamp
on to in the middle here where the last
strip is pretty much right on the line
that I'm trying to cut to so I don't
have anything above it to clamp to but
the problem with this is now the clamps
are in the way for even citing down the
line so it really pays to have the
spline above the line and that way the
clamps are out of the way and you've got
a clear view of the line you're actually
trying to get right so I'm going to move
the spline up above the marks and then I
can look at the bottom edge because that
will be the edge and actually trying to
get right
[Music]
so after lunch I sharpened the tools and
I got the top edge of this first strip
after the chine beveled out with a robo
bevel and a little bit of hand beveling
here and there now I'm dry fitting the
next strip after that first strip so
I've got the alignment marks here in the
middle all lined up I'm gonna have to
fit both ends this time but first I'm
just gonna mark this end and get this in
fitted in eventually I'm going to have
to do the same drill down at the other
end but I want to get this in fit first
just in case I overshoot this or
understood it a little bit I want this
end to be marked to fit correctly
however the first end is fair so even
though theoretically I could mark it
right now just I know this is a distinct
possibility that things won't be perfect
up there but I wanted a good tight fit
at both ends as closely it can get to a
good tight fit so I've cut my marks
there I can release the clamps now again
I'll pack this off an inch or so mark
where the ends gonna be cut it off
assuming that's the finished end I can
just mark where it crosses the center
line here and choose one of my plethora
of straight edges mark that I've gone
over this all before us I'm doing it
quickly
and off the excess it's just a little
bit more comfortable to stand on this
side as I'm fitting it especially if I
want to show it in the camera all right
again so I'm going to hold this is what
I think is that angle it's gonna be on
the boat and I'm gonna hold my block
plane vertically and now them down
towards that line and again this is one
of those situations where I don't try
and get the perfect fit on the first go
I'm gonna ease into it I could spend a
lot of time really accurately measuring
this get some bevel gauges out really
get it all dialed in and then try and
cut it right on that line so it just
drops in the first time that would be
awesome I just can't do that so in order
to get an accurate tight fit here I just
accept the fact that I'm not going to be
perfect and try to ease into it one step
at a time so the first thing is just to
get a rough approximation of what I
think this tape is going to be and based
on holding this strip at some
orientation holding the plane at a
vertical orientation then bringing it
down so I get this cut parallel to that
mark I made and I go ahead and try and
fit it in and you know with some
experience I've gotten to the point
where I can generally get the taper
pretty much first shot and right here
I've got like 1/32 of an inch opening
gap at the top so if the taper is good I
just need to adjust the gap a little bit
so again hold the plane up against the
surface tilt it out a little bit so
there's a little bit of a gap up at the
top matching what I just saw
that's my calibration on what's going to
be the right
angle and so now I'll just hold that
angle until I see the gap disappear
bring the piece back drop it in and
right now I have basically no gap up at
this center line I've got a little bit
of gap along the side here I was not
able to get my Robo bevel up in here so
I have not squared that up to the
orientation of this strip it's tight
down there starting to get a little
loose there so what I'm going to do is
just again look at the gap on the bottom
side of that strip and see if I can get
that planed away so I'm just going to
hold the plane kind of approximating
that gap I just saw doing it left-handed
for the camera
all right so now it's tight on both
sides top and bottom but my mark on the
boat is here in the mark on the strip is
here so again and inch and a half or so
away so holding it tight it flat up
against the taper and bevel I've made
already go the full length and then I
was what four swipes five swipes you
know try to fit again all right so now
I'm down to about an inch my taper is
still good my bevel is still tight cut
that very tip off the end there all
right it's starting to be a little tight
at the toe a little bit looser at the
heel a little bit of open at the heel
I'm down to three quarters of an inch
extra swipe at the tip with the toe hold
it out a little bit at the heel it's a
nice long strokes now when I place a
strip in here I could really jam it in
and make it tight it would tend to peel
this side up a little bit as I do that
thus wedging this wedging a gap into the
already installed strips here and you
know I could make it fit so the goal is
to have it just slide in and stop
rightward wants to be and right now I'm
seeing when I do that the tip is down
low it's recessed from the surface a bit
and it's tight at the heel so I think I
overdid my adjustment last time yes bet
it's even even the whole way across
nouns 1/2 inch and it's starting to open
up at the top pretty good
3/8 of an inch quarter inch very tight
and good so I'm adjusting as I'm going
and the goal is to have it by the time I
get these length marks lined up
everything should be a really nice tight
seam good sixteenth of an inch all right
so that's perfect right up there if the
alignment marks lined up right here type
full-length of the scene now with that
still in place I'm gonna clamp the strip
back down and make marks at the other
end so my length marks are now made and
I can unclamp the strip I set up these
little clamps on my work surface here
just as a place to catch the end of this
strip as I'm working on it so it's not
just dragging around on the floor
breaking that tip off that we went
through all that effort to make perfect
all right so it's gonna fit in like that
and they will back it off an inch or so
make a mark there one thing about having
a plane in your pocket you've always got
a pencil sharp huh there we go nice and
sharp
same drill at the other end
it marks up at each end and so now I'm
ready to put some glue on it and install
it I'm also gonna put some glue on the
tapered ends they just I don't go quite
all the way up the end of the taper
because I'm going to end up sliding it
into that space and that's gonna smear
some glue back along the length I don't
want to end up with a blob of glue on
the center line that's going to
interfere with the next strip so I go
from the tip down to just shy at the end
one of the things they like about using
tape as a clamp is it lets me get a lot
of clamping done quickly while the glue
is still wet and easy to squeeze out of
there as the glue sets up it gets harder
to squeeze out it's harder to get a tape
joint so if you spend a lot of time
trying to get one spot together other
spots are starting to set up a little
bit and it's going to just be a little
bit harder to get those nice and tight
so tape is quick gets the job done
quickly while the glue is still soft and
wet now I can come back and supplement
that with some stitches
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
okay I'm gonna call that a day I don't
know how much that actually got recorded
today but I'm now three strips beyond
the chine so I've got three strips on
today total it's not bad
this is slower going because I'm fitting
strips at both ends but it's looking
nice things are lining up really nicely
I think it's really going to look sharp
if you've watched this far you should
probably be hitting like and subscribe
and all of that stuff and it would be
awesome if you have supported me on
patreon but I appreciate the support of
just likes and subscriptions in the next
episode I should make it most of the way
to the end on the bottom here probably
won't make to the closing strip of
better known as the whiskey strip but
we'll see how far we get until then
thanks for watching and happy paddling
[Music]
 

Registration is open for the Schoodic Retreat

Wed, 02/12/2020 - 18:01
Registration is open for the Schoodic Retreat nick Wed, 02/12/2020 - 17:01

It was 1984 when I first paddled in the Schoodic area. This trip really changed my life. It was that experience that got me interested in sea kayaks and it was only a couple years later I acted on that by building my first kayak. The waters around Schoodic Point and Frenchman Bay are spectacular for kayaking. They are sheltered enough to be fun for all abilities yet exposed enough to be fun for all abilities. There is something for everyone and it is a real pleasure to be able to introduce other kayakers to this beautiful area.

We are offering discounted pricing for early registration. Since we have some early expenses required to make this event happen, getting some people signing up early will help us plan a better event.

This year the retreat is September 20th through 26th. Once again we will be based out of the great facilities at the Schoodic Institute. We have activities for non-paddlers, and trips suitable for anyone with the smallest amount of experience in sea kayaks to the most experienced. We all eat together and the sense of community at the end of the week lobster dinner is one of the best parts of the whole event for me.

Check out this page for more information about the Retreat.

 

Making a Wooden Kayak Paddle

Thu, 02/06/2020 - 21:15
Making a Wooden Kayak Paddle nick Thu, 02/06/2020 - 20:15

In this video I demonstrate the whole process of making a kayak paddle from wood. Starting from cutting the wood through getting out on the water.

Plans for building a similar paddle are available Here.

Making your own wood kayak paddle is a great way to personalize your kayaking adventures. Instead of just another plastic paddle you can have a beautiful piece of functional art that you made yourself.

The wood I'm using is Western Red Cedar for the body of the blade, with a bit of Ash as the reinforcing accent. The shaft is made from Sitka Spruce with a reinforcing spline of Ash.

The blade is reinforced with fiberglass and has a nylon para-cord reinforcement around the edges. This make for a lightweight but very strong paddle

Supplies:
  • Western red cedar
  • Sitka spruce
  • Ash
  • 2-ounce fiberglass
  • Nylon Parachute Cord
  • Tite-Bond III waterproof PVA Glue
  • Epoxy
  • Varnish

Stripping The Keel Line - Petrel Kayak Build - E4

Wed, 02/05/2020 - 17:49
Stripping The Keel Line - Petrel Kayak Build - E4 nick Wed, 02/05/2020 - 16:49

I use a new method for quickly trimming and fitting the keel or centerline of a strip built boat. I use a router running against a fence to trim off the excess length and make a consistent width slot that can be filled with a 1/4" wide strip.

Plans for the Petrel

I got the idea for this method from Dan Caouette

Tools:

hey welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade and this is
episode 4 of building the petrel this is
a strip built sea kayak it's one of my
favorite designs to paddle I've got a
strip built version as well as the
stitch and glue version I've actually
built a skin on frame version for a
customer but I don't really have plans
for that yet
so in the last episode I stripped up the
hull most of the way I got the bottom
stripped halfway across and I sort of
left a ragged edge this is fairly
typical of how I have been stripping up
the bottom of boats now but at what I'm
going to be doing in this episode
there's a little bit different from what
I've done before it's an idea I got from
Dan Cohen of clearstream custom
watercraft he's a builder up in Berlin
New Hampshire does really nice boats and
I'd seen him in Facebook or Instagram
post do something along the lines what
I'm of what I'm doing here he stripped
up both sides left a rough centerline
and then it ran a router down the middle
and that cleaned up that rough
centerline and he was able to drop a
strip of wood in between there to make a
nice tight straight
keya line strip and it really looked
good and went really quickly I'm taking
that idea and doing something a little
bit different basically the same idea
but to save a little bit of time on the
fitting of that centerline the Kia line
I've set up the fence right after doing
the first side trim that first side
straight now I have a space there that I
can use to have a fairly rough
centerline then I run the router again
and end up with a precisely dimensioned
width strip that I can drop right in
there and the bottom is done it's really
kind of achieved again I captured this
video about a year ago and since then
I've
this a couple times in class on a canoe
and a kayak and it's really kind of
cheating I'm debating whether I should
do it in class anymore because it's sort
of a little bit too easy and doesn't
give people a chance to learn some of
the nuances of fitting strips together
but that said if you don't want to deal
with that fussy task of fitting strips
together this is one way to avoid some
of that as I mentioned in the last video
I was having some audio problems I've
now figured out what the problem is my
little lavell ear mic the wires for that
we're fraying and shorting out and
creating a lot of static so I've placed
an order for a new mic and I will be
coming in shortly hopefully that'll
clean up the sound but unfortunately
it'll only clean up the new sound all of
this video for this whole build was
captured with that old mic and so
there'll be times when I just have to
cut to music because the grading of the
shorting out wires was a little bit too
much to handle so instead of hearing the
natural background sounds I'll drop in a
little music to make it a little less
grading so with that said and without
any further ado let's get right to it
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
[Music]
so I trimmed the center line by setting
up the fence here and then running a
router down that fence I transferred the
center line of the strip's using little
jig to take the center line here and
Mark it on the outside
I've got a few quarter inch diameter
pattern bushing on the router and so I
wanted to Center the router on that
center line and to do that I measured
out three eighths from the center line
and put this fence along that
three-eighths line I wanted to keep this
fence level so I made little wedges to
go onto the fence and glued those wedges
down on top of some tape so I can peel
them off without making a mess of the
wood there's a few places where the tape
and glue weren't quite strong enough so
I ended up with some clamps there and
then I just ran down that center line so
right now I've got a straight edge here
cut about an eighth of an inch from the
center line I used a quarter inch
diameter router bit centered on that
center line so it's an eighth inch on
each side I'm now going to fill up
strips from the chine
up to that center line but I'm not going
to attempt to make a tight fit I'm just
gonna make sure that I don't have a gap
greater than the quarter inch so then
I'll come back after it's all stripped
up recut that center line with that same
router and then I can just drop a
quarter inch wide strip into that gap
that's the plan I want to try and keep
this fence in place while I do it so
when I go to recut the center line a
second time I don't have to be accurate
and trying to replace that fence in the
same place it's still in the same place
and hopefully it'll stay there I might
have a little bit of an issue at each
end here or a sprung up a bit but
hopefully I'll get it on the majority
and there's some places here at the end
where the fence wasn't close enough to
the strips to actually cut all the way
down so I'll just take a saw those
and this area will get covered with the
outer skin anyways so we'll see how it
goes
so to fit these strips in I'm just
fitting them loosely but they do need a
taper at the end in order to fit against
the pre-existing strips so I just
but this up against the end of the
little point there mark where it hits
the other strip on the other side then
mark that taper and I'll just use my
jackknife to quickly hack off that low
point bring it right down to the line
make the lines disappear
just touch that shit see if it looks
decent I just don't want any gaps
greater than a quarter inch wide all
right so I get that just nestled in
there I'm gonna clamp this off to hold
it in place and come back to this end
here so if this end I'm just going to
loosely gauge the length cut it off
something like that
mark that
that off just do a quick dry fit and
both ends that it fit at the far end let
it sit back in here and staple it all
home then grab the next strip
[Music]
[Music]
[Music]
router didn't get all the way up to the
stem here so I'm just going to use a
little mini shoulder plane from my Robo
bevel and see if I can just extend that
a little bit farther I don't need to
make it go all away I can have an out of
stem come up here and that should take
care of it
but this role of bevels quarter inch
wide just follow right down that groove
and deepen it a little bit
[Music]
so with the cheetah strips I'm just
following the existing strips and
fitting in to the shear strip so the
point of this is I think aesthetically
it just looks better to have the strip's
running closer to parallel to the water
line instead of sweeping up too much if
you have all the strips following this
year it kind of starts to look like a
banana and it just happens to be easier
to fit into so I'm fitting this against
the cove on the bottom and I'm going to
be cutting away at this edge here and
fitting that into the cove on the shear
strip so on this edge that when I taper
this back I will be able to just use a
block plane to cut a little bead on
there and make it fit tightly into that
Cove so this these are just some of the
cut offs from working on the bottom I'm
going to take one that's more than long
enough that way I can just slide it in
to adjust for any mistakes
with the micro bootlegger sport I was
booked matching everything and if on
this boat I were booked matching
I'd want to end up with the patterns on
this strip matching the strips on either
side of it so in other words I'd want to
have it fit and precisely a longitudinal
orientation on the boat but here it's
random color strips I just need to make
it fit tight up in here so if it doesn't
fit right I just keep on shaving it down
and until it does so that might mean I
push this a bit in but that's okay I've
got plenty of room to do that
and this first strip fitting in is
always the hardest because it's the
longest taper basically it tapers down
to nothing up here and we want to make
that nice tight all the way into there
so coming from here where it's where the
strip first hits the shear line is gonna
be a long gradual taper so just putting
that strip in there I'm gonna mark it
right here that's where we want it to
hit the other thing to think about is
you don't you can always make it tighter
by jamming it in or pushing this year
strip up to the touch but we've got this
fear strip but a nice fair curve we
don't want to mess with that curve we
want to keep the natural curvature of
that and fit this strip to that and not
depend too much on the flexibility of
these strips to make those type joint so
first thing I'm going to do is just mark
out this taper and on this one since
it's a long tape I'll take it over the
bandsaw roughly cut it and then start
playing away at it from after that I'll
be able to just use a jack knife to cut
everything down fit it in and as I get
close and close to the tip it gets
easier and easier because it tapers
shorter instead of longer
[Music]
so with that I've got the bottom of the
boat all stripped up if you have paid
attention to the clock in the background
of some of those time lapses you saw I
was able to lay a strip like every five
minutes or so really moving pretty
quickly again unlike some of the
previous builds where I was doing book
matches and so forth here I'm just
laying down random colored strips and
putting them in quickly and since I had
the cheat of that router trick I wasn't
even doing precise fitting
I'm just getting him loosely in place
then using the router to make a nice
tight fit this process the strip's went
down really pretty quickly the total
stripping time here was you know I
didn't actually time it but four or five
hours to get all the strip's on there
including the cheater strips at each end
so it went really pretty quickly so in
the next episode we will be working on
stripping up the deck I'm not sure how
many episodes that's going to take I
haven't looked at how much video I've
got there but I'll plan to have that be
one maybe two videos showing the process
of stripping up the deck we'll see how
long it takes to get it all on so until
then if you'd like to support these
videos but really the best way is go to
my website if you're interested in
building a boat buy a set of plans I've
got plans for this boat as well as a
bunch of other kayaks both strip built
and stitch and glue I've got some canoes
and some rowing boats these are all
boats
I've designed myself I'm somebody that
likes to get out in the water in the
small boat and so my specialty in both
design is the small car tappable small
boats and what I really like to do with
that is get people like you interested
in building your own boat and that's
kind of the point of these videos is to
share my experiences with building these
boats and get you interested in doing it
yourself because it's a really
gratifying project there's really
something special about being out on the
water and a boat you've built yourself
so if you'd like to support these videos
again by plans if you want to directly
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things like
I need a new microphone microphones of
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and the expense it takes for me to put
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support I get the more capable I am of
getting these videos out regularly on
time again I captured this video about a
year ago I've had so many other things
taking higher priority that I've had to
leave the production of the this video
until I had the time for it and just
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watching and happy paddling
 

Starting the Tricky Bits - microBootlegger Sport - E17

Wed, 02/05/2020 - 17:27
Starting the Tricky Bits - microBootlegger Sport - E17 nick Wed, 02/05/2020 - 16:27

Starting to fit the ends of strips

Music: Ibiza Dream - Chris Haugen

so once again there was no ice in the
river and at time nice calm warning like
getting out for paddle playing today is
to start stripping up the second side of
the bottom working up from the waterline
to the chine line and hopefully he'll
get all those tips from the waterline to
the chine on and trim out the chine
today we'll see how far we get first
couple strips starting at the waterline
will need to be fitted into the length
of the kayak up above that well I'll be
able to run a couple over long and then
trim them back when I trim to the chine
line one thing you may notice when I try
to trim to a line such as a water line
of the chine line of the keel line is I
don't try and nail it the first time I
can't I know enough about how I work to
know that I'm just not that accurate so
I try and ease in on it I'll mark the
line where I want to cut then cut a
little proud of it then trying through
that line up and then once I got
everything straight and good now I try
and ease in exactly where I want the
line by doing that I can get very
accurate to the line it's not that it's
all that critical that I'm accurate to
the line but
later on as we're trying to fit the
strips it does become much more critical
but then actually accurate to that line
so I get a good tight fit so the idea of
easing in on the line is something I do
a lot I cut everything a little bit long
give myself some room to screw up and
hopefully by the time I get to where I
want everything figured out
[Music]
when we left off at the water line here
a few episodes ago we started just
stripping on one side we left this
unbelled so the first step here is going
to be making sure the bevel here is
correct then we'll start adding strips
it's going to be different about this
one is the strip that comes in on this
side has to meet up right here with the
existing strip on the other side first
let's get to beveling that'll be done
with the Robo belt as we get up into the
tight quarters of the ends here the Robo
bevel doesn't actually fit down tight
against the forms so we can no longer
use that up in the tight areas once we
get past about here where the strips
aren't interfering with the tool resting
against the forms which should be fine
up here in the end where the Robo bevel
doesn't reach will resort to using the
tied rabbet plane and we're going to try
and hold the tool perpendicular to the
form above it trying to shave this down
so get a tight seam right in here and
again a taxi
so we've got the Belleville good now
it's going grabbing the first trip for
this side so the achieves the mirrored
illusion that we're trying to get with
the book matching we need to make sure
that the length of these strips ends up
at the same place so longitudinally we
want the any grain on this new strip to
match whatever grains happening on this
strip so that means lengthwise we could
adjust this so the same location on this
strip corresponds to the same location
on that strip so relative to the forms
we see these marks here over here we've
got similar marks we want to end up
making these marks right here match up
longitudinally with those marks there so
bring it down here and now this line
right here is right aligned with that
line right there relative to the form
this is where we want the strip to end
up so I'm going to make some marks
across here so between this strip and
the existing strip so we can
re-establish that alignment here's the
mark that's on that side here's the
Mark's other marks and so I just made a
couple marks across here to be sure we
have that aligned and I'll do it
several locations down the length of the
boat just to make sure it's good I'll
test the dry fit of this all the way
along the length that looks good
let's trip back in place up here at the
bow we've got this trip coming in from
the other sides that's a mirror image of
this one right there and in order to
make this fit obviously we need to make
it fit up against that so we want this
snuck right down in between here and
there so the first thing we want to do
is just make sure we have an alignment
mark up here where it's close to where
we're working so I want those marks to
line up right there down here at the
stern we've got a little bit easier
problem this strip is just going to run
off
p.m. and so we only need to fit one end
and also looking at this this right here
is where the chine line ended up when we
trimmed it down from this side so the
next strip up doesn't need to come down
and fit with this one either if we just
look at that line there there's second
strip up from the waterline ends right
in here someplace so if we make sure the
next strip up on this side and in a
similar location maybe a little farther
just to be sure we know we'll be good
and so we don't need to try and fit up
against this center line up there yet
but for this first strip we'll just run
it off the end and so we only need to
fit the bow in so it's only at the
balland that we need to worry about the
fit so again we want to end up with
these marks lined up we could cut off
anything that's excess here and we'll
end up making a taper so what I like to
do is just give myself some room to
screw up so I'm gonna slide this whole
thing back an inch or so then cut it off
like there so the strips going to end up
in here but we need to take the top off
and we've got to put a bevel on it so
this comes out to a bit of a point at
this end it's about that wide and the
taper comes back to about here so we can
mark that taper now we'll cut off that
excess material put on my apron so I
have easy access to my apron plane now I
want to take and just try and get close
to that line there
so this trips gonna be something like
that but we have this bevel on here the
strip is at a bit of an angle and this
face there is vertical now if I pull
this strip the new strip at
approximately the angle it's going to
need to be when it's done and I hold my
plane at about vertically I've created
the angle that I'm looking to have this
mate so again with this held at this
angle it's gonna meet up against a
vertical surface so if it's going in at
this angle and it's good to go against a
vertical surface and I hold my plane
vertically and now I mean hold keep this
strip at the angle I'm looking for and
keep the plane vertical and now plane
away at the side until I get a sharp
edge on that now we can try to fit
it's not bad for a first effort I see
we've got a little bit of gunk there
holding things apart I'm gonna get in
here clean out some of the glue so from
this angle you can see it's a little bit
tight at the tip or the toe a little bit
loose at the heel here and the angle and
it's held in here it's a little bit open
at the top so again I'm gonna hold my
plane a little bit open at the top and
I'm gonna take my first strokes at the
tip and then work back a little bit so
I've since it was touching at the tip
first I'm removing more material at the
tip at the toe trying to maintain that
same angle and till I get it
cutting the full length of the bevel and
we try to fit again that's quite nice a
little open space below here and
normally this would be taken care of
with the roll bevel it's so tight up
here that the Robo belleville doesn't
work and even the side rabbet plane has
trouble getting all the way into the
ends there I could try and clean that
out with a chisel but a little bit more
accurate would be to do what we did
along the chine line on the first side
when we were trying to make our own hand
bevel you know so freehand that bevel
I'm seeing how wide that gap is on that
side I'll try to match that gap like
this
little tricky doing this in the monitor
I think I bail it the wrong way
nope that's better it's not perfect yet
but it's definitely tighter up in there
so it needs a little bit more right out
here at the end it looks good it's a
little bit of overhang of this strip so
it's casting a shadow there but it's
pretty tight but the thing is back here
I've got a discrepancy between the mark
on the boat and the mark on the new
strip so this whole strip needs to move
forward about 3/4 of an inch
this needs to go forward about 3/4 of an
inch but we've established a good
baseline of what this bevel is supposed
to be so we're we don't need to figure
that out we just need to try and
maintain that taking our plane holding
it flat against that surface do a full
stroke another full stroke another full
stroke this plane has to be sharp
because we want to be cutting the same
amount off this whole face from start to
finish and if you've got a dull plane
it'll skip over stuff and this tip will
start to bend away and you won't be
getting as a uniform thickness off that
taper we want nice uniform shavings so
that was just three passes now you look
back here we're at about half an inch we
still have a nice tight fit but there's
only a half inch gap left there so we'll
do the same again full length
so three passes so I've taken off the
thickness of the shaving three times
that's pretty pretty good we're down to
about a quarter-inch here even though I
had to take off three quarters of an
inch in length since this is on such a
taper doing six strokes of the plane
here moved it half an inch whatever the
thickness of this shaving is times six
was all it took to move this lengthwise
by half an inch so we'll try another
three passes it's almost there I'm
starting to open up a little bit of a
gap at the top it's very thin but we're
going to try for a perfectly tight gap
there see I'm opening up a slight gap
right along that top edge so again lift
my plane hold it tight against that
surface tight flat against that surface
then open it up just a skosh so it's
tighter at the bottom than it is at the
top take another pass likewise we've got
like a sixteenth left to go I can get a
little bit tighter
one more
there's really no gap up at this seam up
there and you can make these line up
there looks good and tight along this
edge opening up a little bit on the
bottom there so I'll start flat and then
open it up a little bit that's pretty
darn good
so now if I clue it in place it should
all end up starting out with this grain
matching and if we start out at the
right place the grain on this side
should match the grain on that side
pretty much exactly get the mark lined
up and secure it in place no that's
pretty nice
so we will come through and put some hot
milk loose stitches here so we can take
the tape off and then we can take the
clamps off and if we need to add a
little bit more hot melt to glue the
strips to the forms we'll do that and
then we'll add the next strip
so with the next strip placed up for a
dry fit we're gonna want to end up
making it a line like that back here at
the stern I've got my reference lines
and I'm also looking at the second strip
up from the waterline second strip up
from the water line from on this side
ends right about there
so if I mark it right there it should be
plenty long enough to cover up to the
chine cut and so we'll lop it off right
there and so it fits in there and we
don't need to worry about tapering this
in that will just run free and there
should be plenty of room there so up
here at the bowel we want it to line up
like that but I want to give myself a
little room for error
so I'll slide the whole strip back an
inch or so and now it's going to end up
getting cut off there at a point right
there cut it off now if I hold this
strip up here it comes to about this
point so bring it back down to the point
and if we mark that that's how long the
tape is going to be so we can take our
high-tech straightedge here never have a
lack of straight edges when your strip
building that's the taper we want well
now take and get rid of the excess you
know see there's easy stuff to cut
there's no reason to bring this over to
a bandsaw to cut it you know this
jackknife I think my grandmother gave
this to me when I was 16 it's made a lot
of boats keep it sharp it works great
and so I got that trimmed down and now
this one again if we think about the
angle it's going to fit in there
something like that and we maintain that
angle and again hold the block plane
vertically we should end up
with the shape it's just dropped right
into that space so I'm not even
bothering to go to the line yet I just
want to see if their tips the more I
leave here the more room for error I
have so you know here's a first fit and
it seems a little bit high on this edge
it's overhanging a bit and so that
usually indicates that I need to flatten
the bevel this way a little bit so have
it flat against the bevel like this and
then I'm going to tip it up alright so
that's a nice fit right there we're
about an inch and a half in length
how's money I'm getting a little gap in
here open this up a little bit
shave away at the bottom and that's a
little bit better we'll tweak that a
little bit more once we get it in there
so again we've got about an inch and a
half or inch and a quarter to go there
so hold it flat against the surface that
we've decided was a good tight fit and
take full length strokes all the way
down the length this tip so flexible
we'll probably end up having to take a
couple extra passes at the tip
right the fits still good we've come
down to about an inch here sometimes
this little nipping that the and can be
hard I just break it off I'm gonna work
on this bevel a little bit on this side
to close up that gap there tops of good
fit side here we still have a little bit
of a gap in back to the out here there
are other three-quarters of an inch to
go that's nice and tight top and bottom
so we still have some length adjustment
to do
it's starting to open up a little bit
along the top here you know the tip is a
little bit low and back here it's a
little bit tight so I'm going to take
one pass that doesn't quite reach the
tip one or two passes just about there
get a 3/16 of an inch
I think I'm gonna call that good now one
thing to be aware of this is the second
strip on this side and it ends right
there you can see here's this was the
line for trimming to the chine line and
then this is the next strip after that
so you have I have a narrow strip here
as the second strip up from the
waterline so what that indicates is this
one's going to end up being narrower
here so when I go to glue this I'm not
going to glue it all the way up along
this edge I'll only glue up to like
there just to make sure it's glued in
that area right there and to pull this
tape as tight as I can to keep that seam
as tight as we can get
so again counting up from the water line
one two three you can see that the third
strip and somewhere up in here so we
don't need to worry about this third
strip over here one two three hitting
here we can end it before that so if we
ended up in here someplace
we'll be golden we'll have plenty of
room so as long as we end it someplace
past here up there someplace we're good
you remembering the sorting of the
strips I had a circle on this side of
the boat and so I'm making sure all the
circles are still out on this side I
didn't do my dry fit yet so I can see I
need some Robo beveling but while I have
the strip in hand let's just go ahead
and cut this off to length so somewhere
up in here down here at the stern it's
in a couple forms forward so I'll take
this and drop it off in there someplace
up here where the Robo bevel is too big
to fit in this space I need to end up
doing a little hand beveling on this
strip to get a tight fit right there so
once again we're looking how wide is
that gap and we hold the plane at a
similar gap
so this should be the last strip and
I've got four strips up this side only
four strips up this side and I was
hoping to get this marked out and
trimmed off before the end of the day
but I'm running out of time so we'll get
this one strip on and see how it looks
all right that's it for today I'm gonna
leave the tape on and the clamps on so
I'm not going to bother with the hot and
I'll clue
make sure that's turned off and tomorrow
we'll come back and trim that off
through it up and start working across
the bottom so that's all I got today I
was hoping to get the chine done but
believe this throwing up for tomorrow
hopefully we'll get that done and then
I'll start working on closing out the
bottom
stripping across from the chine to the
Kia line that'll slow down a little bit
just because I'm going to be fitting
each end of the strips and so it has to
be a little bit more precise I'm no
longer just running strips off the end
if you're enjoying this video please do
all the likes of subscribe jazz support
me on patreon I really appreciate it
helps out a lot
but until the next episode thanks for
watching and happy paddling
[Music]

Stripping to the Keel - microBootlegger Sport - E16

Wed, 02/05/2020 - 16:43
Stripping to the Keel - microBootlegger Sport - E16 nick Wed, 02/05/2020 - 15:43

Hand beveling the chine strip and then filling in the bottom..

Rob Macks,  Laughing Loon

Music: "All Good In The Wood" by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Artist: http://audionautix.com/

hello welcome to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade, today we will be
working on throwing up this waterline
edge that we just cut yesterday today
we'll make it nice and straight the
tools I'll use are some rabbit planes
I like these side rabbit planes this is
one from Veritas and this is an old
stanley 79 and then we'll fine-tune the
angle of the bevel with the Robo-bevel
and if we get that all accomplished I'll
put some accent stripes on so I hope you
enjoy this and if you have any questions
post them in the comments yesterday we
cut this waterline with the saw and
today we want to get it straight and
level we were using this pencil line
here as our guide do not get focused on
that pencil line what we're trying to do
now is get this line this edge straight
and the pencil line is no longer gospel
that was a guide for our sawing so what
we're gonna do now is just eyeball down
it make sure everything looks straight
if it looks straight it is straight the
tool I use is one of these side rabbet
planes what I can do is trim right up to
the edge because the plane blade comes
right to the edge here and so as I go
past the form's I'm not going to cut
into the forms and the forms aren't
going to get in the way so I set this
fence up at such a distance that I can
trim right past the forms and keep on
going and what we're looking for here is
to trim off the high spots we want to be
very intentional with what we're cutting
the only reason to put the plane to the
surface is to remove material there is
no way to make a low spot more straight
by planing the low spot we want to hit
the high spots first and shave those off
and get them down even with the low
spots so every time we're putting this
plane to the material we know why we're
cutting right there and what we're
trying to accomplish right there so find
a high spot first and we're just going
to shave down the high spot
so we first want to identify the high
spots looks like there's a high spot
right here and take the tool start at
the center of the highest spot and then
shave it down if the tools having
trouble cutting against the grain this
tool has blades on going both directions
so if it's having trouble cutting this
cutting this way will switch and end up
using this blade and cut that way
our first goal here is to get the line
straight we're not going to worry about
elevation and how close to the actual
water line marks these are yet first we
just want to make a good straight line
we can shift that line after it's made
but if this if the pencil line is
approximately where we're trying to get
to I'm not going to worry about the
pencil line until I've got everything
straight if at that point we're still
high above that line then I'll worry
about moving it down to the line so
we're just looking for high spots and
we're going to shave those down when
you're identified a high spot start in
the middle of it
shave down the middle of it and then
take slightly longer strokes as you go
so when you cut off the high spot you
end up making a little flat spot on top
that's a little bit wider and each time
you cut down you make that high spot the
you make the top of that high spot a
little bit wider and a little bit wider
so you want to increase the length of
your strokes with each pass
get your eyeball down on it and look
what's going on like I said with the saw
yesterday we're not just the power
source for this tool it's not just a
matter of moving it it's putting it
where you need it and cutting off what
needs to be removed behind the high area
shave down the top now this is cutting a
little rough I'm going to switch
directions
see how the fence lets me get ready pass
that form and continue that slice you
can see the shave spot get wider and
wider with each pass
as you start to get rid of the obvious
little spots that are high you end up
going with longer passes in a longer
area to bring the generally higher
regions down to be even with the
generally lower regions
I'm holding this rabbit plane at about
90 degrees to the existing strip when I
come back with the Robo bevel and I'll
end up beveling it relative to the form
above it here I want to under bevel so I
don't over bevel so either 90 degrees to
the existing strip or more towards
horizontal so one thing nice about these
side rabbit planes is the face of the
whole tool is parallel to the cut plane
you're creating so it's easy to keep
track of exactly what angle you're at
when you're done with one spot move on
I'll find the next high spot deal with
that
it's easy to get enamored by the
beautiful curl that's coming off the
tool and just want to keep on doing it
these it's really great when you've got
a sharp tool and it creates these
beautiful curls and it's so much fun
that you just want to keep on doing it
but again we want to be intentional with
what we're doing and only hit the spots
that need to be hit so concentrate on
the high spots and don't pass over the
low spots until you've brought the high
spots down to their level
we have here the place where we broke
the top half of the strip off and it was
glued down to the inner stem so it left
a little residue behind I didn't want to
cut into the inner stem so we got close
and now we want to get rid of that
excess material there
and now we want to straighten that out
it's got a little rise at the end so try
and identify word rises up and then just
shave off the top
and as you shave it down you'll end up
moving the tool farther back to blend it
in
if I were to try and plane this edge
with a standard plane running it along
the top it'll cut fine here but then I
hit get to the forum and to go past the
forum I want to go like this but the
edge of the blade is inset from the edge
of the plane so as I go past the top of
the forum I end up not actually shaving
away the edge of the strip so what I
want is a plane where the blade goes all
the way to the edge of the tool so
that's a rabbet plane so here plane goes
all the way out to the edge so with this
I can run right on past that and it'll
continue to cut but it's a little bit
awkward to hold this because I get to
hear the planes cutting just fine then I
get to the forum and so now I got to
move around and what I tend to end up
doing when I have a tool like this is
because it's a little bit harder to get
around the forum I spend most of my
effort in between the forums and as a
result I get a little bit of a scallop
as I go by each forum just because I
don't like using this tool past the
forum it's an unconscious thing it's not
like I'm saying this plane sucks I don't
want to go around here it's just that
it's so much easier to do it here and
harder to do it here that unconsciously
I just put less effort into this area
these little shoulder planes are
designed to trim along the edge of
something and basically they're designed
for making rabbits wider so rabbits a
slot in the wood and the let's say
you're fitting a shelf and the shelf
material doesn't fit into the slot you
made in the support you can use the side
rabbet plane like this to widen that
slot so in our case that I have a fence
here
and that helps me move right past that
forum without slowing down and so the
the presence of the forum doesn't affect
my work I can continue to go by all the
way down the length without worrying
about where the forms are because this
fence helps me just get past that area
once it looks like I have this line
straight I can start thinking about
adjusting the height right now it looks
like it's very even with the bottom of
these marks right here
I'll put this end it's a little bit
higher here actually you could bring it
down a little bit all the way along
right here it looks like the edge is a
little bit higher than the marked edge
of the bottom of this slot just barely
lit up like the pencil lines are
actually pretty accurate there to move
this whole line down an even amount we
want to cut it the same number of times
with the plane the full length of the
boat so we're going to essentially start
at one end and run the plane all the way
down to the other end with really
straight grain what we'd end up with is
one 15 foot long curl all the way down
the full length of the boat the grain
here is a little squirrelly so I won't
hope for that
so we're getting some pretty long curls
here but I can do it again
just want to make sure we're not
screwing anything up and I have this
down to the level I want and looks all
nice and straight it's time to fine-tune
the bevel and we'll use the Robo level
for that we theoretically could have
done all this adjustment with the Robo
bevel you know if that's all you have
it's going to work fine
the downside of using it is since we're
removing a lot of material we have this
tight little gullet there which collects
chips and so you got to keep cleaning
those out you know it'll work great but
you got to just deal with that where the
side bevel plane I was using has plenty
of room for the chips to exit and I can
get those long curls like this and you
know it doesn't Jam up this amount of
material in here would make a mess and
we'd have to clean that out
so when we have the bevel adjusted right
we can go over to the other side
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
so I've got both sides Trude up now they
look really good
my plan is to put some accents in there
so what I'm thinking is at a dark strip
really narrow then a really narrow
bright white strip and then another dark
strip so the first dark strip will set
off the edge of this darker body would
then the light strip will be a really
bright line and then followed by another
dark strip so I'm outlining that bright
line with dark and that by putting dark
on both sides of the bright line it
makes a bright line look even brighter
and by having a strip set off the dark
edge here my actual plan with this boat
is I'm going to put some stain on it and
so I'd like to have a really defined
dark edge that will help me mask off the
stain for the topside of the boat I'm
not going to stay in the bottom side I'm
just going to stay in the topside and by
having a bit of a dark edge there I can
have the edge of the stain happen within
that dark pinstripe it's hard to mask
the stain off because it wants to bleed
in under the masking tape and by putting
a dark line there I can have that
bleeding happen in the already dark
material and so oh if it's a little bit
fuzzy along there it'll happen in the
dark material and then I will have a
bright sharp line between that dark
material and the light pinstripe and so
it'll just make that transition look
sharper this bundle I have three
different shades of Western redcedar
that were the drops from some previous
project and so I'm just seeing I'm
liking this dark stuff I think it might
have a nice contrast their problem is
it's not quite long enough so what I'm
going to do is I think I've got four
pieces here I can but join them
someplace in the middle the thin stripe
like this you're really not going to see
that joint
these are looks like they're about 3/8
wide I'd like them narrower than that
I'd like them like 1/8 or maybe even
1/16 and so I can rip these down into
thinner strips use those above and below
the Pinstripe I think I'd probably like
the one closest to the body would here
be like an eight and then the one above
it be maybe a sixteenth so and have the
Pinstripe about a sixteenth all cells
and that should make a nice really fine
crisp looking line so I think I'll pull
some out of here rip those up let's see
what we've got for the pinstriping
material so this is some Alaskan yellow
cedar it's really nice stuff and that
would provide a really great contrast
with the western red cedar again I can
rip this into narrower strips and have
something I think will look really sharp
so these are plenty long and I've fed on
these and won't need to but join these
together but I need to pull a couple out
here and rip them rip them down into
1/16
[Music]
here's what I'm fixin to do get this
eighth inch thick piece of western red
cedar and I just cut and I lay on top of
that the sixteenth inch thick piece of
Alaskan yellow cedar then on top of that
I want another piece of eighth inch
thick western red cedar and then I will
switch to the lighter color bottom wood
so I'm thinking that's going to look
pretty sharp get a nice contrast between
the dark and the light and it will
highlight that overall change from
darker material to lighter material so I
think it will look pretty awesome my
plan for gluing this in place is to
sandwich it all together all at once so
lay of B to glue down play the first
strip later beyond glue on top of that
the second strip buta glue on top of
that the third strip and then cinch it
all down with masking tape to clamp it
tight and get a nice straight crisp line
these western red cedar pieces aren't
quite long enough so I'm just going to
scarf them together and simple way to
make a scarf let's just bundle them
together like this and then
so now we can take put them together
like that and that will disappear
completely sixteenth inch material I can
just lay them on top of each other get
them lined up and then cut them that way
those will put together just fine nobody
will see that so I'm just gonna quickly
apply some glue to the seam here
I now got the accent strips on both
sides and I think it's going to look
awesome and it's time for lunch
so when lunch is over these will be dry
can strip the tape off and we can keep
on going
[Music]
so I had an excellent lunch came back
and peel the tape off and then came by
with a little hot melt glue to tack down
some of the strips where they'd popped
off the forms I hadn't put hot melt glue
down for a couple strips now just
because my schedules worked out that I
didn't need to but now just want to tack
things down before I go on to the next
section and so now we are switching over
from the body wood to the bottom wood
and I had it all arranged in the stack
so it's just pulling up the next one off
the stack but first thing that's going
to have to happen is we're going to have
to bevel this to get a tight fit on the
next strip so it's rubble bevel time
[Music]
[Applause]
so it just grabbed the next strip this
is a light colored bottom wood and I had
it in the bin under the last strip here
so it's just taking one more strip off
the top of the bin and now this gets
placed up on top of the AK Center to a
dry fit and I'm going to give it a
little bit more bevel up at this end
looks great down through here because
you lose a little bevel in there it
looks good down at this end a little bit
of work there alright so a little bit of
touch up so if at the end here the Robo
bevel has trouble getting in there and
it doesn't have anything to register
against and I want to give it a little
bit more of a angle and here so I'm just
going to use my side rabbet playing here
that's better
some old glue that one
well I made good progress today I got
those accent strips and I think those
are going to look awesome I only got one
strip on after that I was hoping to get
a little bit more but filled up a memory
card on the camera so decided to take a
break there's some other stuff I need to
do so tomorrow we'll continue adding
strips on this one side working up the
side until I get to the chine at the
chine we'll do a process similar to what
we did with the water line where we over
strip and then cut it back and so we'll
see how far we get tomorrow if we get as
far as getting all those strips on up to
that shine line if your interest is to
see please subscribe if you haven't done
it already hit like give me a thumbs up
if you're impatient to see what's
happening next go over to my patreon
site and give me a little bit of support
I post all these videos there a couple
days before they're released to the
general public so again if you're
impatient go check that out so until
next time thanks for watching and happy
paddling

Getting Over the Chine - microBootlegger Sport - E15

Wed, 02/05/2020 - 16:27
Getting Over the Chine - microBootlegger Sport - E15 nick Wed, 02/05/2020 - 15:27

Hand beveling the chine strip and then filling in the bottom.

Tools:

Music: Castleshire - Chris Haugen

0:00:01.200,0:00:39.170
[Music]
hi welcome back to the guild on kayaks
workshop I'm Nik shotta
in this episode I'm going to trim back
to the chine line and then continue
stripping across one half of the bottom
of the boat the first step towards
trimming back the chine line is to just
transfer this diagonal which marks where
the chine lies to the outside of the
strips so just right there
[Music]
at the middle of the boat the shine
marks are right near the edge of the
strip but as we proceed towards each end
we end up needing to trim more off of
each strip again it's hard to mark out
towards the ends here because the strips
are covering the forms more so we'll
have to extrapolate from here out
towards the end so I'll grab a scrap
strip and use that as a spline to
connect those dots
since I marked this line off a common
reference line on all the forms a
diagonal line that diagonal line defines
a plane this at a diagonal slice through
the boat like this and so when this
spline is lined up right you ought to be
able to get your eye at such a point
where the this spline defines a straight
line when your eye is right on that
plane the spline is going to look like
it's a perfectly straight line and so
that's what we're trying to achieve
right here and what that means is when
it's straight in that one plane it's
fair and other planes and everything
will fit together nicely plate when I've
got the spline placed and I'm happy with
it I'll draw a nice crisp sharp line
along that edge so now we have a nice
sharp line to cut to and we will cut
that off with a Japanese pull saw just
slightly above that line
I got these drops of hot and all glue
here right along the edge I cut right
through them which just gum up the saw
blade a little bit I don't want to plane
through them I don't need to gum up my
plane any so I'm just gonna take a
scraper and cut those right off at least
the ones right along the edge you've
done this job we're now back to the same
process we did on the water line where
we're just going to take a side rabbit
plane and knock off the high spots again
we want to straighten out this line
before we worry about exactly the
location I've got I've left it a little
proud of my mark here and I want to now
just true up this line get it nice and
straight and then we can pull the line
down if we need to so again find the
high spot use a plane and just knock off
the high spot and I use longer and
longer strokes as I as I flatten off the
top of that high spot I need longer and
longer strokes to maintain that flat
area it's just a patient process of
finding each high spot knocking it down
and again we're being intentional here
we're not just running the plane against
it because it's fun
it is fun but we're trying to find that
high spot and knock it down and it
doesn't take a lot of work if you're
systematic about it
right along here where the China's hard
comes to a sharp angle I want to create
a bevel on the top edge of this strip
such that it bisects this angle
essentially makes them miter between
this surface and that surface so when
you put a strip in here next to it with
a bevel on it it will end up fitting
tight and we're going to cut that line
and trying to make the corner right out
here between these two strips and the
way I do that is I look at that bisected
angle which these grooves are helping me
find by connecting the dots here I can
see that angle that I need to cut and
now I'm going to hold my side rabbet
plane at that same angle and so when I
go to cut this I end up recreating that
bevel there and so I'll have a bisection
between the side of the boat and the top
of the boat and that way I'll get a nice
tight fit right between those strips
right there one feature the side rabbet
plane is this bottom surface of the
plane defines the same surface that the
blade is going to cut to so when we're
holding it here if we align the face of
the plane with that angle there we will
end up cutting a bevel at that angle so
it gives you a really quick feedback on
what you're doing and you can create
that bevel is exactly the angle you want
and we're going to keep on cutting this
bevel until we get that curl coming all
the way across the face of the strip to
help visualize that we can put some
little witness marks across here and
then when we go to plane
those witness marks start to disappear
when those witness lines disappear we
know we've made a bevel all the way
across the edge of that strip and then I
keep on checking making sure we're not
distorting the the curvature on this
strip after we straightened it out this
bevel should end up right at the corner
of the forum so the bottom the bottom
edge of the bevel and the corner should
be right hitting each other that way
when we lay a strip on top of it it will
end up being a nice crisp edge right out
there so if you have a bevel there it
will meet the bevel there and that
transition will happen right at the edge
between two strips on the top edge is
all playing down nice it should end up
lining up perfectly with these diagonal
lines so just get your eyes down on it
and try and bounce up and down a little
bit so you see where that line is
relative to the top edge of these strips
and again the pencil line here isn't
what we're worried about we're worried
about getting this edge nice straight
and fair and trying to match it up to
this diagonal line back there at the bow
of the boat with a China softer and that
there's not a hard angle there there's
just a nice round curvature but can use
the role available to true it up and
square it up to the forms beyond there
so when the next strip goes in it
doesn't need to be beveled the it will
need to be beveled back here where the
chine is hard will need to create the
other half of that mitre but eventually
if we just get this squared up to the
forms it'll just be a little less work
and fitting in that strip so you can
take the Rollo bevel and continue that
angle down once you're satisfied with
your bevel it's time to add the next
strip and this in this case I'm gonna
have to revert to the way I did it
before I had my Robo bevel tool because
we've got that mitre we're trying to
match and so I'll show you how that's
done it's a little bit different process
but works great we'll start with a dry
fit of the strip just like we always do
and I'll put the bow everything's nice
and tight all right here is starting to
veil veer away from tight so I'm just
going to start numbering I'll call this
one form two just for easy reference
form three four five six seven eight
nine ten eleven twelve and we'll go on
our new form we'll mark the same thing I
think all right so now we have a
reference here to just quickly get the
strip back where it needs to be so as
I'm working at each form I don't need to
try and figure out where exactly it's
supposed to be I've got a number right
there and I can just quickly put the
form back and forth so here at the where
I've got it marked five if I hold this
new strip tight against the form and
then
it up tight against the existing strip
you can see obvious large gap right
there so what I want to do is just sort
of look at that gap and visualize it in
my mind my goal is to take a block plane
and reproduce that gap between the block
plane and the strip and then plane the
way until that gap is gone so starting
up here at the place where a start
severe away from my existing edge I see
I have a gap there it's like half a
millimeter or something like that
so when I pick up my plane I start with
it flat and then open up a half a
millimeter gap and now maintaining that
angle I plane it away until the gap
disappears and I put the strip back in
place and see what I've got how is it
doing it's I still have a little bit of
a gap there it's like a tenth of a
millimeter start with it tight and then
open it up just a tenth of a millimeter
or so
and playing away until that gap has
disappeared and try to fit again now
we've got a really tight seam this is a
process of match the gap we have again a
little over there maybe about a
millimeter there and so pick up the
strip at forum number two we'll start
clean match that millimeter gaps and
start planing away so we try and roll
our wrist from number two to number one
so we try and blend the bevel we have at
number one into what we're creating it
number two so you're playing a little
bit and again we've got the numbers here
so I can just lay it right back in place
at number two and still get a little gap
there so what I find I end up doing to
make a tight seam here is over bevel a
little bit so I devil it a little bit
farther than it needs to be that will
make it tight on the outside of course
now we've got a little bit of a gap on
the inside for this China I'm okay with
that for the structure of the boat later
on when we go to fiberglass the inside
I'm going to end up with putting a
little filler in there so some thick and
epoxy with wood flour in there we will
go and fill up the backside or the
inside of this seam and that will
reinforce the heart shine down here and
fill in any gap I may have the goal is
to make it tight so that no filler is
required so as you get each one done
move forward and again look at your gap
match the gap and plane away until a gap
between the tool and the strip
disappears and that should end up with a
pretty tight seam up here so again one
step at a time moving down the length of
the strip I'm up to number four look at
that gap it's over a millimeter match
that gap you will find that these floppy
strips can be a little bit hard to plane
because as you push on them they
tend to just flex away so you need a
good sharp tool and also you'll see I'm
bending this downwards so that way when
I push my plane against it I'm creating
some pressure against the blade I have
to do a little planing double check your
fit you still have some gap egde there
so it's about half what it was before as
you're moving down the seam check your
fit between the forms as well make sure
it's tight between the forms so we're
trying to roll our angle from this form
to that form so you have to keep in mind
what was going on back here while you're
working up here so it's going to be a
matter of rolling your wrist upwards or
downwards as necessary to blend that
bevel together it's easy to end up with
a perfect bevel right here another
perfect bevel right here and then a
square edge right here so you end up
with a sloppy fit in between so this
creating that rolling bevel takes a
little practice but you can end up with
really tight work when you're done you
notice I'm now wearing an apron and this
is what's called an apron plane a lot of
coincidence
I've got a good fit all the way down
here to the end I've got a fairly severe
twist right here so I'm going to give
this strip a little bit of a pre twist
with some heat it looks good
lay in there nicely so that will give it
all a final dry fit and they've got some
room for improvement right here at forum
9 it's just a little bit of a gap right
there so I'll get some glue on it and
install this strip it looks good so I
have this rounded chine up here and then
it transitions to the hard shine back
here this gives the kayak a little bit
of control when you're surfing on waves
you can edge and use that as a control
surface it really makes a fun boat so
with the first strip on above the chine
I'm now going to be filling in from here
over to the centreline and again I'm not
going to be doing the other side until
I'm done with this side and that way I
can come back trim this straight to the
centreline and then do all my fitting on
just that one side with the tape peeled
off it's now a matter of doing the
bevels make sure the bevels are good and
that'll be done with the Robo bevel now
that will pass the chine the Robo bevel
comes into its own again
so I want to go straight on to the next
strip so I'm going to glue the strips
down to the forms as needed and put some
stitches in to hold the strip's together
so that's the last strip of a day I got
one two three four five six strips on so
that's not bad
tomorrow we will continue on stripping
we ought to be able to get all the way
to the center line all the way the full
length of the boat and which time we
will again mark it back at the center
line trim that down through it up and
then start stripping in from the other
side so I should say although like
subscribe all that stuff hit up patreon
if you want to hold trust you'll do that
so go do it so tomorrow we'll continue
stripping and thanks for watching and
happy paddling

What is a Chine - microBootlegger Sport - E14

Wed, 02/05/2020 - 16:01
What is a Chine - microBootlegger Sport - E14 nick Wed, 02/05/2020 - 15:01

Stripping up the side to the chine.

Tools:

 

Music: Jeremiah's Song - Dan Lebowitz

[Music]
hi welcome back of the shop yesterday
we put some accident strips along the
water line and define the transition
from the top side of the boat to the
bottom side of the boat and I got one
strip on of the bottom wood but
technically I'm not really on the bottom
yet the micro bootlegger sport has a
chine which is a transition from the
side of the boat to the bottom of the
boat and it's a hard chine where it's a
fairly sharp angle and it's not really
possible to strip around that
continuously so you need to strip up
past it and then trim it off again just
like we did at the water line so mark
that line and trim it off I found they
forgot to put the marks for where that
shine line is going to be on the forms
so don't have a guide to go by as far as
marking the line on the outside of the
strips when it comes time to trim that
off so I made a little jig to draw that
diagonal line onto the forms so that's
going to be the first step of the
process after drawing that mark I will
continue stripping up the sides again
until we're past that line here's the
chine of the boat so we have the side
coming up and then we start on the
bottom and as you see it's a fairly
sharp angle right here and if we try to
strip around it it's just unless we're
really lucky and it lands right in the
right place it's not going to work and
the height from here to here on each
form changes slightly and as we get up
here the chine starts to soften and as
we go forward it gets much much softer
it's a little bit sharper back here and
then it softens again back at the end so
since that's changing in height the best
procedure is to just strip on past that
and then come back and cut it off
when we were marking the water lines I
had this little jig that I could put
down here and show where the water line
was by transferring this line on the
forms to the outside of the strip and
then we made that mark cut it off and
installed our accent strips right there
I forgot to put any line here so what I
ended up doing is making this little jig
this registers against the aluminum on
the bottom and this edge here against
the far side of the slot so if I put
that in there down against the strong
back and up against that slot now I have
a way to mark alarm so I can establish
that line on the forms and that's right
there
and when I come to do the stripping I
can lay this jig against that and use
that to transfer that line to the
outside of the strips wherever these
strips mele so I need to go through and
do that on all the forms both sides it's
easier to do it now than it is to do it
later once they get the strips on there
you know that will start interfere with
this jig so I'm going to go ahead and do
that to all the forms
you
and securest thing that this diagonal
line does not intersect that point right
there it's seen that I'm trying to make
a line that's going to intersect where
this is so when I go and trim the strip
it ends up being right even with that
little corner right there what we aren't
taking into account is the fact that the
strips have thickness and so if we put
the strips here well will end up
happening is this diagonal line will end
up being where these two strips meet at
the outer edge what I can do to help
illustrate that is I'm just going to cut
the corner off these scrap strips all
right so now I've put a real bevel on
those strips so now if I place them here
you see that line ends up intersecting
at the outer edge of the strips of the
boat so that's why the line does not
intersect at that point if we look at
this swarm from the other side we'll see
another thing that sort of illustrates
what's going on there and if we look at
it from this side you see this corner
right here just is peeking out under the
jig in this diagonal line I've created
does not intersect that point we're
trying to make a line that intersects
where these meet out here if you look at
my little clamping groove here you see
it's not on that diagonal line either
the this line and this line are parallel
to this line and this line so you end up
with this offset down there now if you
look at that the line that those create
and connect them all together and this
is a line I sometimes I often have on my
forms if you buy the planes for this
boat it would have this little diagonal
line right there drawn on it it would be
a little short hash mark there plus it
would have this long diagonal shown on
it and again those two lines actually
intersect right out here on the outer
surface of the boat so those lines meet
out at this corner what this line here
is useful for is obviously these strip
aren't gonna meet well like this without
a bevel you end up with an open groove
you could just bevel one side and get it
quite a bit tighter fit but what happens
is then one side overhangs the other and
when you go to playing that smooth you
get a thin spot in the boat this
diagonal line here is kind of a miter
between this surface and that surface
it's the same way you might have two
pieces of wood to make a picture frame
so the corners meet evenly we could do
the same thing here and cut from this
point out to this point and make a miter
it wouldn't be a 45 degrees it would be
a bisection of this angle whatever this
greater angle is this is half of that on
either side so there's times I say will
bisect the angle and that's what's going
on right there
it's a sanity check we can see if we can
get our eyeball right on the plane of
these lines so they all line up and look
like they create one continuous line so
if I stick this stick right along that
reference diagonal line it should end up
that this diagonal right here is right
on that line and this one right here
this one right here and this one right
here so we ought to be able to eyeball
down the whole length of YZ and find
this diagonal this diagonal is something
I design into the boat it's integral to
the planes now it's time to add the next
strip so the first thing to do is get
the top edge of this beveled correctly
to accept the next strip on the stack
[Music]
we've got stripped my number seven here
of the bottom material and we're just
going to be adding on this side remember
with the book matching of the bottom
material we took every other strip and
put it on either side of the centerline
and so all the odd stuff is on this side
and all the even strips are on that side
and now we have these reference lines
here that'll help us line the grain up
so if I just slide this down until those
line up
we know that the grain is going to be in
the line I want to go down with this dry
fit make sure I have a tight fit I'm
satisfied with the fit I can take the
strip off and glue it up
[Music]
feeling the tape up can sometimes be a
hassle usually just can rub your thumb
across it or if you have a little flag
sticking up on the back peel it up from
the back you need to dig into it a
little bit and rub your thumb across it
there's a little flag sticking up as we
continue stripping up the sides to the
chines
we don't need to strip beyond the chine
and here this would be one more strip
and then we're a little bit past the
chine we want to go passive chime but we
don't need to keep on going past so we
want to go a little bit past and so here
we'd need two more strips here of one
strips probably going to do it here
we're well past down here we probably
don't need to do anything you if you see
that line here we're looking for where
that plane intersects the edge of the
strips and we want to make sure we're
fully past that line but we don't need
to go well beyond it just make sure that
line is covered and so then when we come
back and trim to this line we don't have
any gaps along the way some of these
strips we can cut a little bit shorter
as we put them up we don't need to go
all the way down to the ends if we're
eventually gonna just saw that off
anyway so we'll be a little bit
reasonable on how we cut these off just
to make sure we've fully covered that
line but aren't going unreasonably far
past that line so I'm now ready to do
the beveling on the top of this strip
and related to the fact that we're not
going past the chine here unreasonably
we don't need to try and wrap it around
the corner here even though the forms
are already starting to fold over if I
tried to wrap this strip around I'm not
actually getting the shape I want the
only part of this strip that's going to
be used is the stuff down here just up
to the chine so we don't need to try and
wrap it over
and particularly back here we don't need
to wrap it over so in the process of
doing our beveling here we're not going
to try and lay the Robo bevel down like
this past that we're going to use this
angle defined here at the top and just
continue that and so basically there's
not much beveling required here at all
and none out here this will be cut off
so we're just trying to get a tight fit
in this region down beyond here we'll
start to follow these forms again
[Music]
[Applause]
[Music]
until this point my schedules had
something like lunch just whatever right
after I've put on a strip
it's just worked out that way but at
this point I just put on this strip and
I want to put another strip on here
often I can put one strip on here then
put another strip on the other side and
by the time I come back to this side the
glues already dried but at this point
I'm just stripping one side because I'm
trying to get past the center line and
then when I'm done stripping this side
I'll cut that center line and then strip
in from the other side so I'm only going
one strip at a time on this side and so
I'd like to be able to put another strip
on right now but I can't because I've
got all these clamps on and all those
tapes in the way so what I can do now is
I can substitute hot melt glue for the
clamps and put some little hot melt
stitches in between and well it's all
tight let that hot melt glue cool
and get hard and so it'll continue to
hold it in place and after it's hard
then I can peel off the tape first I'll
just pop a clamp off inject a little hot
melt glue behind it press it down and
move down the line taking one clamp off
at a time after that I'll come back with
the stitches of hot melt glue and then
once I've done with that then I'll come
back and peel off the tape just pry it
up a little bit
inject the tip under there just a small
dot like an eighth of an inch squeeze it
tight and since the forms are beveled to
match the taper of the boat this ends up
with a very tight fit there and so it
cools off quickly and has a good bond
there
when it's cooled completely I'll come
back and trim off that squeeze out
I'm not going to glue it to this front
form it'll just make it hard make the
forms harder to get out now I'll just
come back and put a quick little bead of
glue across that joint between the
strips right now this has no holding
power but with the tape they're clamping
it tight while I'm going it doesn't the
this doesn't need to do anything until
it's cooled off and then it'll serve to
help hold those strips tightly together
while the glue dries one reason I use
yellow carpenters glue so tacks up
really quickly in a tight seam like this
and you know the ten minutes has taken
me to do this it's really got a lot of
strength already but this will give me a
little bit of the laddered security once
they cool off so I can take that tape
off and if the yellow glue is not quite
ready to hold this whole take care of it
well that's cooling off I'll come and
get the squeeze out off the forms
[Music]
so I'm debating putting in one more
strip if you take this reference line
out here get my gauge on it just to have
a very small amount above that line
should be enough this one is like right
on the line with the bevel beveled in a
bit it'd probably be fine I probably
don't need to add any more here you know
it looks like it's right where it needs
to be
likewise with this form it's right on
the line beyond a little farther down
here starting to gain some ground here
so this one up here it's just right
where it needs to be here we've got more
than enough so I guess my my conclusion
is here I'm probably safe you know I
could just to be sure
add one more strip and most of that
would be cut away it's kind of a waste
of material it's one whole strip that
would be cut away because in order to
keep my pattern going I need to take the
next strip off the stack and that will
go here and then almost all of that gets
cut away and I can't use the rest of the
strip so I think I'm probably best off
just going with what I have here marking
this out marking that shear line
recutting and going from there and I
think should work out great
so with that conclusion on this side
with no need to add any more strips I
think I'm going to call it a day I got
three strips on today it's not super
successful but they look good they're
nice and tight and the matchings coming
out really nice I think it's going to
look great their accents really starting
to show now you can see the contrast
between the two pieces of wood and I
think it's gonna look really awesome so
with that in mind the next episode is
gonna be trimming this off at the chine
line and then stripping up from there to
the center line once we're done with
that then we start working on the other
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happy paddling