Boat Building Plans News

Syndicate content
Updated: 2 min 16 sec ago

Is Longer Really Faster?

Mon, 07/06/2020 - 22:35
Is Longer Really Faster? nick Mon, 07/06/2020 - 22:35


I often get questions to the effect of: "I have trouble keeping up with my friends, what kayak should I get?" Everyone knows that longer kayaks are faster, so obviously I should be recommending the longest kayaks I have to these folks.

But is it really true? Are longer kayak truly faster? Well, like a lot of things, the answer is: It Depends.

First we should talk a little bit about what makes a kayak fast or slow. You would think that if you hang a large enough outboard off the end, you should be able to make any pig take off. Within some limits this is true. What really determines how fast you go is how much power you can apply to your paddle. But different boats are going to go different speeds when you apply the same amount of power. What differentiates the boats is "drag". 

Drag is how much resistance the boat creates to oppose the power you are applying to make it go. Drag varies with speed, generally when you aren't going very fast there isn't a lot of drag and as you go faster and faster, the drag usually increases. What makes a slow boat vs a fast boat is how quickly the drag increases as speed increases.

Drag is created by two different forces, the frictional force of water trying to slide past the boat, and the force needed to accelerate the water away from the hull shape and back again as the boat splits through the water. These are called "Frictional Drag" and "Form Drag" respectively. Form drag is sometimes called "Residual" drag.

Friction with the water is created wherever the boat touches the moving water. The more boat touching the water, the more friction. This is often referred to as Wetted Surface Area or Wetted Area. For my designs you can find this in the Measurements section of each design or the design comparison page. As implied, a larger wetted area will result in more drag.

Form drag is a bit harder to understand. As you move your boat through still water, the hull must displace the water out of the way to make room for the boat, and after it has past, the water must move back in to fill the hole where the boat used to be. This requires accelerating the water out to the side and then back.

With wide boats, you need to move the water a long way out to the side and narrow boats, not so much so it is fairly easy to understand why narrow boats may have less drag. But what is the effect of length?

Think about lifting a heavy object to some height. You can either just grab ahold of it and lift it straight up, or roll it up a ramp to that height. Most people will agree that rolling it up a ramp will be easier, and the longer the ramp, the easier it is. While they both accomplish the same thing, trying to do the work all at once is more difficult than taking a little more time going up the ramp.

A longer boat works like a longer ramp. It accelerates the water more slowly, so the water doesn't have to move as quickly to get out of the way, and likewise coming back together after the boat passes.

What may not be completely clear is why displacing the water slowly makes it easier. In the end, this all comes down to energy. Any energy you use to move water out of the way of the boat is energy that could be used to move the boat forward. I'm going to drop some math on you, but don't get too tied up in the equation, just let me show you what the implications of the equation are.

The energy of a moving object is called Kinetic Energy or KE. The KE of an object is related to its weight or mass (m) and its speed or velocity (v). It is calculated with the following equation:

KE = 1/2 m v2

Let ignore the 1/2 bit. It doesn't matter. Instead lets look at the two things we understand weight (m) and speed (v). In this equation, the weight is by itself just, where the speed has the little two over it meaning "squared". So when we look at the contribution of mass to Kinetic Energy it is just the mass, but when we look velocity we need to multiply the velocity with itself. Lets see what that looks like in a graph:


If we look at the blue line for mass, the contribution to KE is just whatever the mass is. If you double the mass, the KE is doubled, ten times the mass, ten times the KE, but with the orange velocity curve, it is a completely different matter. Doubling the velocity means four times the KE, and 10 times the velocity means 100 times the KE.

So, if you take the math out of it just remember that small changes in weight means small changes in the energy while, small changes in the speed can result in significantly larger changes in the energy.

Looking at our short boat vs a long boat assuming they are the same width, if the boats weighs the same amount and the person paddling doesn't change, the overall weight doesn't change meaning its contribution to kinetic energy doesn't change, but with a long boat, the speed at which you move the water is less because the same displacement of water happens along a greater length. If the long boat were twice as long as the short, you would only need about one quarter the energy to displace the water. Longer boats mean that for any given forward speed you paddle the boat, you end up moving the water sideways more slowly. This results in a savings in the amount of energy used to move the water.

Note that any energy applied to moving the water around the boat is visible in the form of the wake left by the boat. The boat wake is that energy moving away and lost. The act of your bow cutting through the waves creates a wave that continues after the boat has passed, another wave is created when the water slides back in behind the hull. These waves created by the boat moving through the water combine together to make the wake.

Given this, it would seem obvious that longer boats would always be faster. If you are putting less effort into moving the water out of the way, with a longer boat, that has to be a good thing. But longer boats come at a price. They generally have more wetted surface area. The shape with the lowest surface area is a round or spherical shape, when you start to stretch it out while keeping the volume the same, you end up increasing the surface area.

And remember that more surface area means more frictional drag. Looking at the graph of the velocity curve above, you can see that at the left side where the numbers are low, the orange curve takes a while before it really starts swinging upwards. The result of this slow start to the curve is that at low speeds the form drag doesn't amount to much until your speed increases. At low speeds most of the drag on your boat is a result of the friction of the water rubbing against the hull.

The graph below is shows the drag of my Petrel design. The orange curve is the Form drag from the moving the water out way, and the magenta is the friction of water trying to slide over the surface. The blue area is from adding these two together. Notice that until about 3.5 knots, almost all the drag is just overcoming the friction and it isn't until almost 6 knots that the Residual Form drag becomes the dominant factor.


A consequence of this is that at lower speeds short wide boats have less drag because of less wetted surface area and at higher speeds longer narrower boats do better. As an exercise in learning more about this I used a program called Michlet which is a hull drag modeler with a tool for creating "optimized" hull shapes for a given speed. Essentially I found an optimum length and width shape for a given speed, and then modeled the drag for that shape. So, the blue line shows the drag of a design with the minimum drag for 1 mile per hour. This resulted in a boat that was 3.3 feet long and 27.6 inches wide (shaped a bit like a lemon, round in the middle with some points at each end).


If you look carefully at the lower left side of the curve you can just make out that blue line just barely peeks out below all the other curves. It disappears around 1.5mph and then heads north hard past 2 mph, but at that point the magenta, 4.7' x 24.6" shape is showing below all others. If you were to take the drag number where the magenta curve crosses the 2 mph line and slide left to where that level crosses the green design optimized for 7 mph you will see that for the amount of effort it takes to make the 4.7' long boat go 2 mph you the 17.7' long 7-mph boat would only be going about 1.4 mph. The lower wetted surface area of the short boat is sufficient to make up for the fact that it will make a bigger wake at higher speeds.

This brings to light the very hard to fathom situation where the "slow" boat is faster than the "fast" boat when you are going slow. Whats more, notice that all the curves are headed up as you go to the right. Yes, the short designs optimized for slow speed gain drag faster, but there is no avoiding a gain in drag as you go faster. There may be funny little glitches in the curve like the blue at 2.4 mph where some weird interaction of hull wave forms briefly cancel out for a speed window of slightly reduced drag, but in general, it is all rapidly increasing drag as speed increases.

These boat dimensions may not be practical, but if you are in the 16.1' design that is optimized for 6 mph and it takes everything you physically have to make it go 6 mph, getting a 17.7' boat will not make you go faster. It may actually slow you down. You need to be substantially stronger to get the 17.7' boat going fast enough for it to have an advantage over the 16.1' design.

There really is no such thing as a fast kayak, there are only strong and fast paddlers. Hang a big enough engine off the stern, you can make any boat go fast. But, we are generally fairly weak weekend warriors, trying to get the best out of our old flabby bodies. How do we do it?


The "optimized" boats above are not realistic, if you are comfortable cruising along at 3 mph, you are going to be hard pressed to find an 8' long boat that is 20" wide. Most kayaks are wider than any of the above examples, but hopefully it makes you think about how you use your boat. 


The above curve shows the drag of my Petrel vs my Petrel Play designs. The Petrel is 17' x 20" and the Petrel Play is 14' x 23", but the first thing to look at is the measurements comparison, notice that at the waterline the dimensions are 15' x 19.9" for the Petrel and 13.15' x 22.75" for the Petrel Play. Because of the more plumb bow of the "Play", the waterline length (the part that matters) difference isn't that stark. The Petrel Play also has less wetted surface area 18.7 sq ft vs 20.2 sq ft for the Petrel. And the overall surface area of the whole boat is less with the "Play".

You can just make out a bit of blue showing below the purple below 2.5 knots, at 3 knots there is some divergence but it isn't egregious. If you are paddling the Petrel Play in a typical group that averages about 3 knots (about 3.5mph or 5.6km/h) you are really giving up nothing to the 17' long boats in the group. Yes, if they choose to sprint off you may struggle a bit, but you gain something as well. The lower total surface area of the Petrel Play means it doesn't need as much material to build, which translates into a lighter boat. Longer boats also need to be structurally stronger meaning more weight. The shorter boat has less "swing weight" meaning less inertia when you want to turn, i.e. it is more responsive and quick turning. The shorter length fits the surface of choppy water better so it is more stable.

I have been paddling a composite version of my Petrel Play (made by Turning Point Boatworks) a lot recently. It is an exact copy of the strip built Play, just built from fiberglass and Innegra instead of wood strip. I've done 20 mile long distance paddles and a lot of playing in tide races and surf, paddling with friends in 17' boats. I don't feel that I have suffered from the shorter length. It is quick to get up to speed, easy to handle a lot of fun.

After years of watching people paddle all sorts of kayaks, I have come to the conclusion that for most paddlers 14' of length is really all they need. I paddle long boats a lot as well from 17' sea kayak to 20'+ surf skis. It takes a lot of strength, stamina and physical fitness to gain the speed potential advantages that longer boats offer. Short boats do tend to be wider which increases drag, but if you can find a reasonably narrow boat in the 14' range, chances are that will be as fast as you will be comfortable paddling. Constantly seeking a longer boat to go faster will not do you any good if you don't also spend the time to train and increase your fitness.

A short boat will be lighter, more responsive, easier to paddle most of the time, as well as easier to load on your car and store in your garage. There is absolutely a place for longer boats, but you may be surprised how happy you can be with something shorter.

Guest Blog: A Ganymede in three sections by David Large

Fri, 07/03/2020 - 19:57
Guest Blog: A Ganymede in three sections by David Large nick Fri, 07/03/2020 - 19:57


A Ganymede in Three Sections by David Large

After making a canoe, in a stich and tape design, I decided that I needed something that was more seaworthy. The canoe is fine for closed waterways and calm rivers but not really suitable for the River Thames. After looking at many options and plans I established that I need something that was, simple to build, was suitable for the River Thames and would fit in my workshop during construction. Finally, I needed to consider long term storage, weight and transport. Not an easy set of requirements to satisfy.

I quickly settled on a simple free on-line plan, Ganymede by Guillemot Kayaks. This is a simple flat-bottomed kayak with single plank sides, a flat rear deck and two-piece upper deck at the bow. The next stage will test my skills in woodworking and also design, or design adaptation.

I needed to make the Kayak in three pieces, which satisfy a number of the requirements and settled on a simple rear compartment, the central tub for me as paddler and a bow section. From the plans I made a scale paper model to visualise the craft, also seeing how it would look and if the sectional element would work.

The first scale model was made from printed A3 plans, this did indeed show me that I may be possible, next was a bigger model, using a scale of 1cm to the inch. This confirmed my initial thoughts. From this larger model I established the sizes of the sections. The rear approx. 54 inches, the tub 60 and the bow approx. 44 inches in length.

Next stage was proper full-size pans to work from. After lots of thought I found that you can buy “lining paper” that you would normally use in a house to prepare bad walls for painting. This could be bought in various weights, so I decided on a thick 2000g m2 paper. One 20 meter roll was bought and the next stage started, carefully transferring the design from plan to full size paper, not an easy task but with care and patience, all parts were drawn up and cut out.



Three sheets of Suitable 3.8mm plywood were purchased and delivered by the local timber firm, lots of marking out ensued using the 3 section measurements as above, excess on the side planks was left to allow for the redesign!!

The stern was tackled first the base plate and two side planks were slowly and accurately cut any excess was sanded back to ensure smooth lines. The pieces were gaff taped together to test fit and design, then they were superglue stitched.

Now we were into the unknown, the rear stern section needed a bulkhead, this needs to fulfil and number of duties, creating the designed shape for the stern a place to sink “T nuts” for securing the stern to the tub. I believe for strength it needed to be at least 9mm thick, however I had some 12mm scrap shuttering ply, this would be fine for design and template purposes.

Two of the bulkheads were created, one with a width excess of approx. 1.5mm for use on the tub to allow for the curve as the stern section transitions to the tub, this will be fine tuned during the tub manufacture. The stern bulkhead was gaff taped into place and the stern deck test fitted, being temporarily held again with gaff tape.

Image Image

Attention now turned to the bow section, the same methodology has been used, the forward bulkhead shape and size established, final cutting of all tub pieces, including the main hatch hole in the large rear deck piece.


The bulkhead shapes and position have been established, strengthener plates have been added as TNuts are needed in them to secure the sections together with standard A2 Stainless flange bolts 50mm in length with a penny washers.

Next a full trial fit of all sections was needed, the bulkheads were clamped and drilled so that all holes would line up, they were then taped into the bow, stern and central tub, careful assembly then was undertaken and all double checked for fit and panel positions etc. thankfully everything looked good.

Image Image Now final assembly could begin.

The bulkheads were then resined into place, then a further final check was made.

Image Image

Everything was looking good and starting to take shape

Then and only then could the section deck top pieces be fitted, resin and taped into position. Access holes have been cut into the top panels to allow fitting (after they were internally cover in fibreglass twill), these will be filled in as the build progresses. The panels will be made a design feature.

With the deck top panels fitted the bow and stern could be strengthened by the pouring of resin into the end void, and this then curing into a solid piece, approx. 2/3 of a cup was poured into each end of the kayak.

Both bow and aft sections are to have tie points installed this is achieved by plates being resined into place with a further TNut inserted allowing 6mm threaded rod to be screwed in with a lifting eye then attached.



With the centre tub taking shape a foot rest was needed, this has been designed and integrated into the Kayak, again captive TNuts were used in the base timbers

Image Image

With deck tops in place, strip timber was resined in place to allow the access deck caps to be reinstated, the jigsaw blade gap then filled with a resin based filler and sanded back, then the exterior fibreglass twill has been attached with resin and the side joints neatly trimmed back to give a good clean line.

Image Image

The bow and aft then received their final coat of resin to act as a filler base for the next stage. The bow section has two access ports for attaching the tub and bow together. A small cover fits in each side and a neoprene seal keeps it watertight.

The tub has had a “combing” created this has been made by laminating 3 pieces of ply together to form a plate for a wider top piece which will accommodate the splash deck that will be used. The final stages show it being resined to the centre tub.

Image Image

This was finished with a layer of glass fibre added over the top. The basic craft was now finished, now followed the rubbing back, varnish, seat construction, deck fittings etc.

The seat was made from 12mm ply a basic three part seat, base and hip sides, with a small backrest that all mounted to the base of the upper deck in line with the combing, the seat was then made “comfy” by adding a number of layers of closed cell foam and covering with 2mm neoprene.

Once the seat was installed the exterior could be finished, after much preparation many thin coats of Yacht Varnish were applied, each getting a light sanding for the next


Now it was finished a final assembly was required to check all aspects

And Finally it got wet!

The initial sea trials were undertaken on a very calm day in shallow water and as can be seen from a short distance you would not know it comes as three pieces, there are no creaks or groans and it paddles true and well.


Fast Wood Destruction - microBootlegger Sport - E29

Wed, 07/01/2020 - 17:00
Fast Wood Destruction - microBootlegger Sport - E29 nick Wed, 07/01/2020 - 17:00

In this episode I break expensive router bits and tear apart expensive plywood.


Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site:

hi welcome back to the Guillemot Kayaks 
workshop I'm Nick Schade. Yesterday I
finished stripping up the boat so I've
done with all the work with the cedar
strips but I still have wood work left
to do I need to make the recess for the
cockpit and I decided to make that out
of a Kume plywood so there's a bunch of
options I could have done I could have
glued up a wide panel of cedar strips
sanded them thin fiberglassed it and
then cut my recess out of that material
I've done that before works great you
can continue with the book matching
theme that way but I decided to go with
a little bit of contrast and have the
okoume there instead and so I'm gonna cut
that it's gonna be four millimeter or
okoume while I'm a 10 I'm going to cut the
risers out a 9 millimeter plywood and
the coaming lip out of more 4 millimeter
okoume the combing is going to be quite a
bit different in the way I make it then
the petrol play was where I used
vertical strips of cedar to make the
riser then laminating mahogany strips
around that vertical riser this is just
going to be a stack of plywood pieces
all glued up together and saying it
smooth and made pretty so it's just
gonna be CNC work today I got the files
all ready to go so I'm just going to cut
them out the first step with the CNC
machine is always zeroing out the tool
and so I will start by zeroing the XY
axis and so that just moves the tool up
against the stops double checks that and
so now if 0 2 on the x-axis and this is
now zeroing the y-axis up against the
stops double checking that and so that's
zero and so now I want to 0 the z-axis
the up and down so just bring it out
into the middle of bed here someplace
get the zeroing plate place it under the
sure there's no dust there then run the
z0e program now I'm gonna put the
material for the riser in place and this
is some actually good quality a little
one not Dora skin stuff but higher
quality than that it's not the best
material but I'm going to be sandwich it
between the coup mate and fiberglassing
everything it's all going to be sealed
up nicely so it'll be well protected
it's very strong I'm gonna nudge down
the bit a little bit just to make sure I
cut all the way through the material and
we'll just preview this cut the riser
all right that's what we should be
looking at start the dust collection
despite my best efforts to nudge the bit
down a little bit to cut all the way
through still then cut completely
through here scoring this edge do that
and then we've got the tabs so that's
one half of one layer of the riser
laminations so these will be stacked up
too high and left and right side and
then I have these little pieces that
will fit at the front in the back I'm
never really happy with this way of
making a calming just due to the way it
wastes so much wood if I do my method
where I'm using strips of wood
vertically that's very efficient with
the wood and it's using what I already
have but I thought I'd show you this way
this is a very quick way of making it
calming it goes very quickly very easy
to do
once you have the pieces cut and you
ignore the waste it works out great
there's all the pieces for the riser
these little pieces flow in the front
and they sort of have a little scarf in
there to fit together and likewise on
the back and so I will make up the full
ring and so I'll super glue those
together to cut the coaming lip and the
recess I'm going to switch to an eighth
inch diameter a bit to cut through this
four millimeter plywood
so it looks like I had the zero
reference at the top of the material
instead of the bottom of the material I
usually like to sit it at the bottom so
when I zero out on the spoil board it
cuts right down to the spoil board and
doesn't cut into it too far but if I am
not paying attention and make it so the
zero reference is on the top of the
material then when it goes to make a cut
this was a quarter-inch cut even though
it was thinner material I was going for
a quarter-inch cut that means the first
cut was 1/8 inch down which cut right
through the material or nearly so and
then the second cut went down into the
spoil board a substantial amount and
actually it ended up hitting the screw
holding the spoil board down and that's
what broke off the bear so I have a I
have a way of breaking these picks that
was the inside cut I can still make the
outside cut I'll put in a new bit rezero
out the fit to the top of the material
then I'll cut the outside diameter of
the coaming left so just kind of zero it
out to the top of the material not the
bottom one problem I have with a lot of
what I do since I'm doing everything in
the shop I don't have enough time to
really get dialed in on any particular
things so the CNC machine you know I'm
not using it all the time I don't
develop great habits and you know I'm
continuing to learn on it and you know
editing video I'm not ending video all
the time I'm not running the table so
all the time I'm not working on my
website all the time I was actually
working on a webpage the other day and
had to make a little form on the webpage
and it's not hard but it's been a couple
years since I made a form on my web page
and so just what am I doing here
everything I do was tend to have that
similar problem where you know I've done
it a lot before but it's been a long
time and
remembering how to do it from one time
to the next can be really hard for me
all right there's the calling left this
waste in the middle is is kind of
annoying when I cut a full ring like
that you know this perfectly good
material here I can use it for something
else but it's sort of an odd shape now
it's a little hard to use one more time
I will zero it down to the bottom of the
bed I've double-checked the file it's
zero to the bottom of the bed
I'm right out at the limits of what I
can cut on this tool bag I have a
nominal of 48 by 24 inch bed here and
I'm cutting something that's about 26
inches wide and I noticed when I got
over here it seemed to hit the stops I'm
suspecting that this cut here is not
which means this the whole panels
probably a little bit out of whack if
it's off base and it's messed up anyways
and might as well continue with the cut
and see what happens
all right this is a righteous mess I
thought you know once I saw this problem
over here happened I remembered what I
needed to do to make this cut right so
again I've got a nominal 24 inch bed
here again I have a piece here that's
just about 26 inches wide the bed can
cut a little bit more than the 24 inches
I know I can cut the width here it's you
know it's almost 26 inches the zero
point here isn't the limit of where it
can cut to it's actually about an inch
away from the arrow so it can go
negative 1 inch and negative like three
quarters of an inch this way and so when
I lay this piece down in here I will
need to offset that zero point
sufficiently that I get where I need to
be so I have enough room so this piece
is pretty much a waste I think I've got
another one of these egg shape pieces
like this it should be a perfect match
to the other one but all this other
stuff you know it's just it's all out of
whack I need to buy some new material
before I can continue with this either
buy new material if they don't have it
which is a good possibility my local
supplier does not have four millimeter
Okuma plywood if that's the case I need
to come up with a plan B which might be
like I said earlier making a panel of
strips and cutting the this whole piece
out of a panel of strips so we'll see
what we end up doing
all right that's not too bad I have some
little score marks here that didn't
quite cut deep enough I think I had this
set up for a thicker plywood so I'm
going to recut those to just get those
right and to do that I'm going to pin it
down a little bit more so they don't go
around so much so I'm just going to
select those two scoring lines and save
those and I'll end up nudging the table
down a little bit
okay it took a while a lot longer than I
had in mind but this is all the parts
for the recessed cut out of this is
three millimeter plywood general wood
craft over in the one and only had the
three mil stuff so that's fine it'll
work perfectly get some glass on it'll
be plenty strong enough so I need a
little bit of cleanup work on there and
I think I'm going to end up staining
these before I assemble them I'm not
exactly sure about that I'm gonna sleep
on it what I have here is these pieces
essentially wrap around something like
that front and back I have it about a
half inch wider than it actually needs
to be because in some places this this
is only a sixteenth inch wide or so that
was going to be too delicate so I left a
half inch border on it and so the
scoring line is where the final piece is
actually going to be cut to the next
episode we'll be dealing with that
dealing with the combing look the
combing riser we'll start assembling
some of those pieces getting stain on it
I might end up putting a little edging
around this just to spice it up a little
we'll see if I come up with a good idea
as I sleep on that overnight so I'm not
exactly sure what I'm gonna be doing
tomorrow it depends on any inspirations
I get as I sleep on it and as I'm
working on the editing all this stuff
down I'm hoping when they have this
episode edited down it's not one of
those half-hour ones like the last one
hopefully this one's a little bit
shorter well if you have any questions
post them down in the comment section if
you like this video give me a thumbs up
if you're enjoying this whole series hit
subscribe turn on notifications all that
wonderful stuff so as I say the patreon
subscribers get all these videos a
little bit early so if you're impatient
you know give me a buck a month and
you'll get to see them too so until the
next episode thanks for watching and
happy paddling

The Final Strips - microBootlegger Sport - E28

Wed, 07/01/2020 - 16:48
The Final Strips - microBootlegger Sport - E28 nick Wed, 07/01/2020 - 16:48

Fitting the final strips on the back deck of the microBootlegger Sport.


Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site:

I'm down to the last bit of stripping hi
I'm Nick Schade at Guillemot Kayaks  I'm
working on the last bit of stripping on
the micro bootlegger sport and that's
the back deck yesterday I trimmed off
the feature line and put an accent strip
in and I started sorting through the
strip's but of course I neglected to
have the microphone on when I was
talking about that so I'll give a brief
overview of what I did yesterday as far
as organizing those strips as you may
remember I cut some inch and a half wide
strips from two by material way back
when when I was ripping the strip's so
at this point I've selected which set of
material I'm going to use on that and
I've selected out a set of strips and
I'll just briefly go over what I did
there and then from there it'll be
fitting those strips into the back deck
and seeing how they look
yesterday I measured the back deck and
determined that I have 18 inches of
width and 67 inches of length that I
need to cover so what I have here is
some of my western red cedar strips
again cut out of a two by material and
these I've already booked matched them
and so I've got this little pattern
going on in here I don't know if it
shows up in the video this a little bit
of squirrely grain and then some nice
streaks running down here and I think
this will look pretty cool up at this
end I've got some little flaws and those
in the strips and I don't want to deal
with though that flaws so I want to keep
those off the bow so I'm going to cut
the strips off about here
then use the material going back from
here and my thought is instead of just
doing a straight book match and slip
match where so this side is a mirror of
this side and then these strips came off
in the order approximately like this and
then there slip matched so just going
down the line like this slipping one to
the side as it came off the plank when
I'm thinking I'll probably do is offset
these so as I have the triangle in the
back deck of the boat essentially and so
we've got these tapering sides and if I
cut it off right here and make that the
point of the first strips so down at the
very stern then it'll come back at a
diagonal like this and then if I offset
this so this point is right at the same
place on both sides
these will match each other and the wood
pattern grain pattern you see in here
will be offset down based on the
diagonal shape of that back deck and if
I continue to do that with each strip
moving it down and offsetting it based
on the diagonal triangular shape of that
back deck I'll end up with a pattern
that has this v-shape in the grain so it
will mimic the triangular diagonal
pattern of the sides of the back deck
it's a way of sort of enhancing that
shape or pointing out that shape through
the use of the grain I'm still book
matching this trip mirrors this trip
this trip here is this trip the strip
muse this trip by not perfectly slip
matching it straight out but instead
coming out in a diagonal will end up
getting a v-shape pattern there which I
think will look pretty cool so that's my
current plan so I've got that all set up
I think the first step is to just bundle
these back up and cut them off all to
length so I have them all starting at
the same place so I've got them all
bundled up and I'll cut them right off
at one spot here but before I do that
I'm just going to bundle up the scrap
and so those will be held in the useful
order for a possible future reference
now we'll just saw these
I won't cut these any shorter they're
longer than I need I need 67 inches and
these are 90 inches so they'll end up
being cut off shorter than this but you
never know what might need that length
for so we'll just start with that I will
undo the bundle here some reference
lines to help determine things here and
this is strip one two and we will grab
the center strips here so these two
strips open up like that and run right
down the middle to the cockpit which is
right there just cut them off so
obviously this tools not quite beefy
enough to cut through those wide strips
so the other way instead of using those
loppers I just sweep halfway through
with the saw I can break them off right
at that curve I'm not cutting all the
way through I'm just cutting parts part
way through and then break them right
there so these are gonna be right in
there right down the center line as we
move down the center line here we've got
a little bit of a crown to the back deck
and so we need to bevel that just a
little bit to get
the tight fit as it gets back to this
very stern it's going to be more V or
more crowned back there and these wide
strips don't really want to twist very
well on their own so I'm going to give
them a little bit of a pre twist to make
it so I get that slight V I want right
back there so this one's going to twist
up this way that one's going to twist
that way so let's just bring this over
here and we want to twist it back
probably about that far
Nexen I gave it a little twist saying to
the other side
no it's like fairly close match
now with these strips running straight
down the center line just work on the
bevel so holding these at the angle
they're going to be installed on the
boat I'm just going to hold the plane
vertically and remove the edge and
likewise with the other piece down here
and the forward part of the back deck
the crown is very slight it doesn't take
much beveling so it goes really quickly
as I get down towards the end where I've
got the twist in it I'll need to take
more on the trail looks tight on the
link so the next step is generating the
taper here I want the same on both sides
so it's going to be right in there
that's where it crosses over the accent
just connect that mark with the end of
the strip on the other side now we'll
cut off that excess now they planed down
towards the line and we have a bevel on
the top edge of the strip here this is
beveled it's angled in like this so hold
this strip in the orientation that's
going to be on the boat and then I'll
hold the plane parallel to that bevel
line right there and start working this
down towards this marked line so start
and I'll do the same on the other side I
want these chips to mirror each other
I want the tapers to be about the same
so they end up ending at the same spot
and I want to make sure the grain lines
up these are the two most critical
strips as far as that goes on the back
deck because as soon as we get to the
next strip they're going to be separated
by three inches these are each an inch
and a half and so this point over here
versus this point over here are going to
be three inches apart so it's not that
critical that they be perfectly lined up
because it's going to be hard for the
eye to gauge whether they're a little
bit off but we want to start as well as
possible to have the best chance of
having everything line up exactly the
way we want it when it's done again I'm
holding it in the orientation that's
going to be on the boat I'm holding the
plane parallel to the bevel against that
accent strip approximately and now I'm
going to plane away
now we can just try our first test fit
here that these reference lines lined up
there and slide it up into place not a
bad first effort we've got quite a large
gap here tight back there the bevels a
little bit off we do want to make sure
that these strips are running straight
up the center line
if the strips aren't running up the
center line so the center line it's
right here if it's off to one side you
know here we're exaggerating it a bit
but obviously it's gonna have a hard
time having everything match up
correctly if these center lines aren't
where it's supposed to be so again we
want to make sure the center line is
centered a couple ways we can help
assure that just that while we're doing
the fitting we can place these right on
the center line and then put some spring
clamps in there so that now when we go
to drop these in place those ends up
there or right on the center line so
when we go to fit down at the pointy end
here everything's going to be aligned at
least on the center line up at that end
so with it centered down there get these
reference lines marked up aligned up
we're looking for where it's tight it's
tight right in here it's loose up but
they're loose there and the other thing
to remember I mentioned this before we
don't want to force this in I can move
this this side here you know good eighth
of an inch maybe even three sixteenths
or quarter-inch so I could make this
taper way off and still by just jamming
it in there you know that's a perfect
trick right there so I don't want to jam
it in there I want to make the fit so
when I put it in here I'm not forcing it
it just sort of drops right in so that's
our goal so get that taper so it's a
good fit for what's there and we don't
have to jam it in
force it so we'll look for where it's
tight and we'll start playing away where
it's tight first and then little
lengthen that those playing strokes out
as we playing away at it to make a nice
smooth curve and so just in a rough fit
that's looking a whole lot better on
this side just tight over here so when I
have it fitted tightly down against
these edges here it's opening up the top
edge ever so slightly when I push down
on it here you see it's spreading that
out right in here a little bit I'm sure
it shows up in the camera but this is
spreading out there just a little bit
that's what I think I'm going to do is
plane away at this end a little bit more
on both sides so it doesn't need to be
pushed down quite as much it's fitting
really nicely right there and when I
push down here it's not pushing the
sides out at all just bevel on this
sides a little bit open at the top it's
really not bad a little bit so I'm going
to adjust this bevel here ever so
slightly but just start with the tight
up against the existing face and then
open it up a little bit at the top
that's nice and tight and so just tight
at the top so that's looking pretty nice
right in there tapers here they're very
much the same length so that means the
next strip is going to be starting and
very much the same place on both sides I
want to be able to glue these pieces
accurately in place the fit seems about
such that these reference lines back
here are right there and right there so
I'm going to fit one strip at a time I
want to find the center line here so
this is going right down the center line
and this lined up right there just to
help us get things in the proper place
now in here I need a little bit of glue
on the taper and then I'm going to just
and some glue the next strip
yeah and some down on the taper section
now we can grab the next set of strips
the strip's will go in roughly like this
if I were trying to religiously a slip
match everything
these would end up being aligned with
the ends will slide everything down like
this and that way the grain pattern is
showing up here gets moved down to here
and so again that will reflect the taper
of this back deck and in and sort of
highlight that shape without me actually
doing anything fancy with the strips I
will get a v-shaped pattern going down
here I don't need to add any other
colors this is just using the natural
grain of the wood to highlight the
actual shape of the boat so now I'm just
looking from the tip here down to where
it crosses the feature line right in
there and mark out that taper you you've
got squirrely grain here you need to be
careful that you don't end up cutting
past this line with your jackknife this
green has a little wow right in here but
it tends to make it split off at a
shallower angle rather than a steeper
angle so it should be okay to come down
pretty close to the line with the
once again the strips going to be in
here at approximately this angle just
slightly tipped and it's going up
against this accent strip that's got a
bevel angle something like that so if I
hold these in that same angle relative
to each other as I'm doing the planing I
should end up with a good first estimate
on the fit I can always adjust it later
so I'm not yet down to the line I'm just
going to try to fit so it's tight down
here loose up here I'll work on down at
this end first looks like it's ever so
slightly open at the top so the tapers
tight down here and the bevel is a
little bit tight at the bottom loose at
the top so I'll try and adjust for that
as well so starting at the heel and
longer strokes to get out
slightly overcompensated here it gets
tight right in here and runs pretty well
up all the way to the end and so I'm
going to run along here and still a
little tight right there notice I can do
this fitting while the tapes there I
don't need to peel that tape off
immediately and while I'm doing this
fitting the glue between these two
strips is setting up so I can leave that
to do its thing while I'm working on
getting these fits correct
alright this taper looks good but it's a
little bit open at the top you see a
little gap all the way down the length
and it's a uniform gap the whole way so
that indicates that I need to adjust the
bevel a little bit so once again get it
tight with the plane
flat against the existing surface then
open it up at the top edge a little bit
to match the gap we just saw and now
playing down the length maintaining that
same angle and see if it's any better so
now that gap is pretty well disappeared
we do have a little bit of crown in the
shape here and since these are pretty
wide strips it does exaggerate any gap
that may end up in between these two
strips so before I go for a final fit I
just want a hand bevel I could
technically I could take the Robo bevel
and fit it in here and I do need to make
sure I just noticed here I've got a
little drip of glue there make sure
that's out of the way and that's not
messing with what I see there's a little
bit of a gap there some of that due to
just having the thickness of the tape
here but I see that gap where the tape
is - so a little bit of beveling
along this edge will eliminate that gap
so that's a much tiger seam along here
now so before I go ahead and glue that
one in I'm going to fit this side so
I'll line this in with the point make a
mark where this Cross is the future line
so just looking at what that bevel is on
this strip and something like that and
this this strips going in something like
that and so again just to approximate it
it's very much open at the top so I
didn't do a good job of estimating that
first bevel but I tend to prefer it be
open at the top first when it's tight at
the top it may be open at the bottom and
I don't know it it's just hard to see
inside there so by having it open at the
top you know I can adjust for what I see
here and hopefully get a good tight
joint between this and the act that
accent strip I think the taper looks
pretty good it may be a little tight
there a little tight there and a little
bit loose in the middle but basically
the taper looks pretty decent to start
with so I'm just going to work on fixing
that bevel so again get it tight between
the plane and the strip and then open it
up to match the gap we were just seeing
and then playing away that gap
so holding the plane at a constant devil
angle and see if that improved now
definitely improved it didn't make it go
away I've got a little bit more gap
remaining so same drill that's very much
better a little bit more room and it
looks a little tight down here alright
that's looking pretty nice I take a
little bit off the tip here when I'm
doing this fitting I don't want this top
edge here to overhang and stick proud
above the accent strip if this edge is
high on the accent strip that means the
whole strip is high on the accent strip
and so in order to fare it out I will
need to plane away more material in this
area in order to get this top surface to
hit the top edge of that accent strip
when this is all complete I'd like to
have a nice smooth surface here nice
smooth surface here and a fairly sharp
angle right where that accent strip is
to make its transition from the back
deck to the side of the boat so that
accent is intended to be the transition
from the side to the top so I wanted
work on making this fit down flush top
edge flush with that accent strip and
it's a little proud right here so I'm
going to just take a little bit out of
that central area okay now just coming
down rate flush with that top edge I
still have a gap on this side at the
same way I did on that side and so we'll
just do a very slight bevel on that edge
the greens a little squirrely here
rising up and falling in and so I'm
switching which direction I'm planing so
I minimize the tare out along that edge
so get a nice tight looking scene there
without little specks of chipped wood
which can happen so that's nice and
tight along that seam and so I'd say
we're ready to glue both sides in in
which case we'll take that tape off
again we don't need this excess length
so quick way too short
cut halfway through break it off the
actual cockpit is going to end up coming
through somewhere back here and I've got
some slots cut in the forms that's going
to indicate the edge of the cockpit so
I'm just making sure I'm going past
where I believe the edge of the cockpit
is going to end up with these strips I
don't need to go all the way into the
cockpit proper with it so same drill
mark the taper trim it off that's to
make the bevel and clean up the tape
before I get right down on the line
I'll check the bevel and the taper devil
looks good taper looks like it's coming
in pretty close it's looking pretty good
but I'm feeling my plane is dull so I'm
going to sharpen my plane
so that finishes up the stripping on the
kayak it's not all the woodwork done
they still have the coaming recess to
put in but this is now the shape of the
boat so I am pleased with how it's
coming out I think this back decks gonna
look cool it's hard to see it with all
the tape on it now but there's a pattern
of repeating Wiggly grain that follows
down along the the feature line here
again you'll see a sort of echo of the
feature line in the grain as it proceeds
across the strips I'm just gonna let the
glue dry on this I I believe the next
step I plan to do will be working on
that calming recess I need to cut out
the parts and I haven't decided exactly
how I'm going to do that I may cut them
out of a cool may I may cut them out of
a panel of cedar strips so they glue
together we'll see like I said I haven't
figured it out yet I have to think about
it a little bit
I've just been focused on getting these
strips done until I figured out what I'm
gonna do next if you enjoy this video
please give me a thumbs up if you're
enjoying this whole series and you want
to be posted on one of the next ones
coming please hit subscribe my patreon
subscribers get access to these videos
about a week or so before the general
public does and I appreciate your
support if you're supporting me on
patreon it really helps out until the
next video thanks for watching and happy

Preparing for the Back Deck - microBootlegger Sport - E27

Wed, 07/01/2020 - 16:40
Preparing for the Back Deck - microBootlegger Sport - E27 nick Wed, 07/01/2020 - 16:40


All that is left to strip is the back deck. I need trim to the feature line between the side and the back deck.


Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site:

hello so I'm finally back from Wisconsin
I'd gone out to Madison Wisconsin to
Canoecopia which is the largest paddle
sports show in the country
I was out there supporting Chesapeake
Light Craft
. Chesapeake
Light Craft make kits
for all my designs so I went out to help
with the booth and do a little kayak
building demo I worked on a skin on
frame the second prototype of the skin
on frame my crew bootleggers for a lot
of fun a lot of people came by it was
good to meet a lot of the people that
watch these videos and just talk to
people about kayak building it was
really pretty cool so snow storm came
into New England after the show was over
and that interrupted my flight so my
flight was canceled so Darren Bush who
owns Rutabaga Paddlesports
which puts on canoecopia helped put me
up for a night or two out there while I
was stranded and I got back last night
and I'm just starting to get back in the
swing of things here so today I'm going
to trim out the feature line between the
side of the back deck and the body of
the back deck so it's the same process
that you've seen me do before at the
water line at the chine at the center
line and the keel line so I won't spend
a lot of time talking about it I'll just
point the camera at what I'm doing and
let you watch
somehow I went most of the day with my
microphone turned off so my discussion
here about selecting the wood for the
back deck is useless I'll redo it
tomorrow when I do the final stripping
until then you know the drill hit like
subscribe buy a t-shirt or plans
whatever thanks for watching and happy

Fitting the Foredeck - microBootlegger Sport - E26

Wed, 07/01/2020 - 16:30
Fitting the Foredeck - microBootlegger Sport - E26 nick Wed, 07/01/2020 - 16:30

With the center accent well centered, it is just a matter of fitting one end of the strip and getting the grain alignment to match the other side.


Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site:

good morning welcome back to the
Guillemot Kayaks workshop i'm Nick Schade
in the last episode we trimmed out the
center line and installed the accent
strips along the center line and today
we're going to fill in them a remaining
side of the front deck so it's basically
just fitting strips at one end working
on getting the taper right and the bevel
right while maintaining the length of
the strips to the grain matches it's
just gonna be one strip after another
first strips will be the hardest and
it'll get a little bit easier but it
shouldn't be too bad we'll see how it
goes but that'll be the first step just
getting this bevel as close as we can
and then if they end up having to do a
little hand beveling in here at the end
that's what has to be done
so the strip only needs to come back as
far as the cock Tech and salt cut it off
right there you know it shouldn't end up
extending much out beyond the stand here
I was just cut a little bit off give
myself some room to work on the fit so
when the fit is right it's gonna come to
about there I might give this a little
pre twist just to make it easier to get
that fit right so the twist happens from
ear forward and twisting the top edge
yeah that's pretty well I'm gonna do a
little bit of hand beveling on the
bottom of that get a little bit tighter
fit on the bottom less than the
sixteenth of gap there hold this here
less than 1/16 that's good and tight so
now I'm gonna back it off a little bit
you might solve some Roma to make a fit
here the top edge of this strip is going
to fit up against the side of this
accent strip and it's gonna fit in there
at about this angle and the side edge of
that accent strip is just about vertical
so holding it at the angle we want the
but the strip to fit when we're done I'm
just gonna lift it up hold it like this
hold the plane about vertical to match
the strip that's fitting against this is
always a tricky fit on this first one
sort of the transitions from vertical to
horizontal here it's always going to be
a little bit tricky to get this fitting
up against that but luckily the outer
stem is going to end up covering over
part of this so if the that's not
it'll be disguised later on
fool the loose of the top tight at the
bottom so open up the gap a little bit
that fits not too bad I've got a little
bit of length available here for me to
move it forward playing back on a little
bit just maintaining that same bevel so
holding it flat against what I have
there take a little bit of off the toe
opened up the gap a little bit there so
I want to work on my bevel this way it's
a little open at the top so hold this
open at the top that's a pretty good fit
I'm gonna take a little bit more off all
right one thing that's clear here I
think this fits going to work fine but
one thing that's clear is if you look at
the next strip here I had a severe bevel
on this because the next strip comes in
almost flat it's coming in almost like
this and so this top edge of this strip
has a lot of bevel on it and I did it
here I used the Robo bevel because I was
able to just run out the end and Robo
Belleville fit in there just fine but
now you know obviously this big tool is
not going to fit in between the edge of
this strip and the edge of that strip so
what I think I'm going to do is just in
anticipation of having a big bevel there
I'm gonna work on that bevel now before
I install it and that way I'll have an
easier time getting in there it's just
gonna be an estimate on what we're
looking at there with the strip coming
in at about this angle you know we're
looking at a bevel there's almost a 45
degree angle on that I'm gonna take this
way back
so now it's going to be an easier fit to
get the next strip in between this edge
and that edge that's where the strip has
to go is in between here it's not going
to want to rise up over the top of that
just trying to anticipate what that next
strip will want to do in there so you're
going to call this fit good I have room
to plane away after this is done there's
enough material there that if this isn't
a perfect match at this point I'll have
material that I can play in a way at and
sculpt that a little bit to make it a
nice pleasing shape when it's all done
glue this strip in and you're ready for
the next trip
back it off a little bit deeper comes
back to about their mark that taper I
generally don't like using you utility
knife for trimming this taper I just I
forgot my regular old Swiss Army knife
since the blade of the utility knife is
so thin it's easy for it to sort of get
caught in the grain and follow the grain
and steer itself in an unfortunate
direction like I said I don't typically
use a utility knife but so I was going
slow there just to make sure I didn't
get thrown off course so it'll fit in
there like that at an angle something
like that hold that at the angle we
think it needs to be hold the plane at
the angle to match the edge of the
accent strip there
if the strip's flexing away and making
it hard for it to be planed I'll back it
up with another strip so it's open at
the bottom it's opened at the top and
it's tight here at the heel so the first
thing I'm gonna do is give it a little
bit of extra bevel on the bottom edge
you know I did pre bevel this edge here
and I could come in with my side rabbet
plane and adjust that bevel a little bit
but it's hard again to get all the way
in to the ends here it's easier look at
the edge of that and say okay how much
beveling do I need there not a lot
I've been getting a tighter fit their
back here needs more babbling alright so
we've got a better fit along this edge
now let's look at the top edge again so
again we're a little tight there a
little bit open at the top so I'm gonna
open it up at the top a little bit take
a first few strokes down here where it
was tight and then go with longer
strokes yeah it fits good there it's a
little high here I'd like to nestle this
strip down between the accent strip and
the prior strip so that'll be shaving
off the toe of that a bit so now it fits
down deeper into that lengthwise use our
marks there and there so I'm gonna move
it in that punch so full length strokes
again this tip is a little flexible but
you know I did three or four strokes
there and I've moved in a fair amount
and right there this time compared to
there again that's tips been flexible so
when I try and play in it it just size
away a bit so it's not getting full
planing so this is risen up a little bit
more so we'll concentrate on hitting the
tip a little bit more and we'll try and
support it it's at tip down a couple
more full length strips here
alright last time we were here now we're
there so I've gone in another these
sixteenths still need a little bit more
on that tip to get that to nestle down
in there better so that didn't affect
the length any it just got the tip to
settle down in there a little bit more
moved from here to there
all right
that's a passable fit in there I'm just
gonna tweak the fit up here a little bit
a little bit tight it right in there
again when I go to glue this bevel up
here I'm not going to go all the way to
the heel because as I slide it in
that'll smear glue on that edge and I
don't want glue to interfere with the
next strip
all right the taper looks pretty good
it's a little bit open at the top so
that means I will hold the plane a
little bit more open at the top and Mark
is here here so a little bit open at the
pulling strokes to maintain the taper a
little bit tight right there think I
want to bevel the bottom edge of this a
little bit tight there a flexible tip
off and causes an issue a couple extra
strokes down here to make this support
strip stay holding the tip a little bit
better and just take a little scrap
piece of strip here set it on the side
here so it's sticking up ever so
slightly and same on the other side that
way those little tabs hold the strip
there while I'm planing on it I'm just
playing through them if they're in the
way and you're still tight at the tip a
little bit tight at the heel a little
bit more gap in between so I'll give
each end a little bit more effort our
line that's to about there and you're
still a little open at the top so I'm
gonna open up my bevel a little bit so
tight against the edge and then open it
up slightly at the top you can a little
bit tight at the toe so it's not getting
tight in the middle we've got
still a little bit loose right here
tight tight so work on the ends it's
very good
all right it's tight at the toe loose at
the heel so I'll work on the toe first
it's actually tightest right in there
and it's running a little tighter
reading this section than it is at the
our grain alignment is from here to
there so we've got a few more swipes
left it's still a little bit loose right
Titus they're a little bit loose at the
heel or it's a toe all right we're down
to from there to there
again when I'm fitting these I want to
be careful that I don't just wedge the
piece in there seemed like the easiest
way to get a tight joint it's just push
it harder but what happens is you can
displace the centerline and end up
getting a little bit of a wavy line
there so the goal is to make it so the
strip slides right in and stops where it
needs to be without putting a lot of
pressure and to get it where you want it
I'm doing pretty well in lining up the
edge of this strip side-to-side this
strip ends right about there and this
one ends right about there so we're off
by an eighth an inch that's that's
pretty good
it's a pretty nice fit all away you
still have this much to go from here to
there alright so last one was there an
hour to here from here to there and I'd
say we're a little bit loose right there
nice and tight right there slightly
loose with the toe we want a plane where
it's tight first start it out there and
here really tight in here right there I
mean the grain alignment wise we're
right to here so we've got another half
inch you did a pretty nice fit all the
way along I think it's coming through on
the video here you see this dark grain
pattern here we've got it mirrored here
if we align perfectly we'd be like a
quarter inch off and here we're like
three quarters so you know we're getting
that grain to align pretty nicely so now
we're loose at the toe tight right there
so we can I've been concentrating on the
toe a little bit so now we'll back off
on that and work on the
good another quarter inch of length and
it's still a little loose here nice and
snug there
and I'll give it one more swipe to the
pet plane here that's pretty darn good
and again zooming in on the green here I
think we've got a very nice match
between this grain and that grain so
presumably it matches all the way across
but that's the effect we're going for
and again the end of this taper is right
about there the end of this taper is
right about there so we're pretty darn
close and one of the advantages are
throwing an accent strip in here is it
separates the points here ever so
slightly so it's just harder for the eye
to tell if they're lined up but again if
we've got the grain here lined up really
well that's gonna draw the eye a lot
more than exactly where the tip of this
strip comes in versus the tip of this
strip so we're ready to glue this one in
and tape across the center line get that
seem nice and tight now I'm moving fast
enough here that the hot melt glue is
not really setting up by the time I want
to take the tape off so I can actually
leave the tape on while I'm fitting this
strip I might take the stuff off here at
the end just so I get a better idea of
how tight the fit is I can leave it on
here until I'm ready to apply glue the
Robo bevel is no longer fitting into
this base so I'm just putting a very
slight bevel on by hand using a block
plane on the edge of the new strip and
that'll just help me get a tight fit
so this little support jigs getting
chewed down as I playing the tape or
down on the strips I'm fitting I end up
planing into this little jig so
eventually it gets to the point where
it's sort of the supports are in the way
and it's just not working so well so
let's make another one
so we're down to almost last strip here
and if you remember when I stripped up
this side of the deck
here's strip 26 which was the last
designated strip for the front deck and
here's strip 26 on this side and then I
used sort of the scrap end of 26 and
strip 25 down here and so you see this
little wedge right here - there is all
that is included in that low but in this
strip 25 and as I say I'm quite certain
that the cock that comes out of
someplace - here I'm not gonna bother
with this strip again I'm just gonna fit
this trip here's the cutoff end of strip
26 on this side and here's the other end
of strip 26 so this is this piece off
the end of strip 26 right there so I'm
gonna end up lining up the ends down at
that end so I'm cutting off a piece here
that's the same length as what I cut off
here it's not that critical but just to
try and be consistent so this is a piece
I'm gonna try and fit into this spot
here approximately match the pattern
all we're gonna end up seeing is this
when it's all done probably is just this
bit from there to there and so if we
have something that matches up halfway
respectively here you should be okay so
the taper comes back to about there
that's a good long taper there
fling down towards that line all right
so it's tight they're a little tight
there this edge here actually has a very
slight curve to it I'm going to be
planing this edge into a curve in order
to fill this gap here so
it's a little open at the top so I want
to give it a little bit of a bevel
all right so that's the front deck all
stripped up got the accent right down
the middle I did a good job of lining up
the points of the strips and you can
start to see that book matching
happening here when I get the tape off
it'll be more clear but I think it's
looking pretty cool what's gonna happen
the next episode is I have the back deck
left to go and so it'll be trimming
along the feature lines there I have a
couple choices of strips in order to use
on the back deck so I'll lay those out
take a look at them see what I like and
I'm really looking forward to that
that'll be dripping all done I'll be
using wider strips in the back deck
together so it'll go pretty quickly I
think it's really gonna look sharp I
will end up putting an accent stripe
along the feature lines back there just
to have a separation between the side
and the back deck and so that should
look pretty sharp as well so if you
learned anything out of this episode
please give me a thumbs up if you're
enjoying this series please subscribe
I've got books about the process you can
buy plans for all my designs so this is
a micro bootleggers sport I've got plans
available for this if you want to build
it my last build the petrol play I've
got plans for that and there are also
kits available through Chesapeake like
craft your if you're interested in
building a cat all of those things
support me help me keep producing these
videos I really appreciate any support
you can provide so until next episode
thanks for watching and happy paddling

Centering the Centerline - microBootlegger Sport - E25

Wed, 07/01/2020 - 16:21
Centering the Centerline - microBootlegger Sport - E25 nick Wed, 07/01/2020 - 16:21

Getting the centerline exactly in the center helps assure the strips on either side will be a perfect mirror image.


Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site:

so no paddling for me this morning we've
got a nor'easter blowing through and
it's blowing like stink out there so
instead I'm in the shop and I'm gonna be
trimming the deck center line so that's
gonna be pretty much the same process
I've shown you before on the water line
on the chine line on the keel line the
only difference this time is we're going
to be putting an accent stripe down that
center line and I want to Center that
accent stripe on the center line so the
edge I'm going to cut I'm going to end
up offsetting from the center line
slightly to account for the width of the
accent strip.
I'll start by just getting some of that
hot melt glue out of the way so I've got
my little jig here and this is my offset
jig so this point here is an eighth of
an inch off from the reference line here
and I've got a quarter inch groove in
under here so if I set this edge up
against the far edge of that groove this
will end up being right in the center
all right against the far edge of that
groove make my mark
like before we're just going to start by
straightening this line out that looks
pretty straight to begin with did a
pretty good job of cutting it but we're
just going to look for high spots and
knock off the high spots
once they've got it reasonably straight
I can start adjusting the location I
want to get it right on that center line
just looking like it's very close to the
center line there so now I need to
decide what exactly I'm going to use for
accent strips
so my initial idea is just a stick a
sixteenth inch strip of Alaskan yellow
cedar down the centerline and that would
make a really nice accent and I think
that would look really nice the thing
I'm thinking about however is I still do
plan to stain this boat and it's really
hard to get a crisp line with the stain
the stain wants to bleed so one way
around that is to have that stain
bleeding in a place where it's not going
to show as much if I have a dark strip
on either side of the light strip I can
mask off so the bleeding happens in the
dark strip and since it's already dark
it's going to be hard to see the
bleeding in that dark strip the stain
will be a fairly close approximation to
the dark color of the existing strip
already any little gradient that happens
in there happens in that dark strip and
with the hope that there's a nice crisp
line between the light and the dark here
and so that high contrast transition
happens without the stain actually on
that seam that's the theory is you know
it takes some Fancy's masking to make
that actually happen but I think that's
what I'm gonna at least try to do here I
have here three strips of wood and I
think they're all about 1/16 inch thick
what I wanted to do is move the center
line over 3/32 so I want to move this
line here over half the width of this
bundle of strips so we'll try and Mark
that out and move the whole thing that
far and that's just a matter of planing
along that edge consistently until let's
move far enough what I'm gonna do is
mark off at each form just put a light
line that's half the width of that
accent strip or about 330 seconds
just a light mark
right there in each form
and that'll give me a guide as I move
this whole line over with the side
rabbit plane so now with the side rabbit
plane I'll just run down along that edge
each time I plane past it it's going to
remove a given amount of material and
I'll just keep on going until I hit
those marks check it as I go to make
sure it's not getting crooked that one's
getting a little dull I'm gonna switch
over to the Veritas just because it's
sharper and I don't feel like sharpening
it right now
we'll call that close enough now to look
not too bad so I noticed this strip is
these accents there's two peeled out at
the bottom a little bit I'd like to get
a clamped more tightly together so I'm
just gonna take its barest graph the
strip here well I didn't accomplish too
much today just got that accent in but I
think that's gonna really look sharp and
again I've seen which the white accent
in between two darks because on either
side some of the strips on the body of
the boat are a little bit light and so
when it comes time to stain it I want to
have a nice sharp pre-existing contrast
between the body of the boat and that
accent so I can run a masking tape down
there and have any bleeding and sort of
ragged edge to the stain happen within
already pre-existing dark strip that way
the contrast between the light and the
dark will be enhanced tomorrow we'll be
filling in the side the remaining side
of the front deck and then we'll see
when you get to the back deck until then
if you like these videos give me a
thumbs up if you're watching a lot of
these videos hit subscribe if you're
impatient about what's coming up next
head over to my patreon site for a token
support you give access to the videos
before the general public until then
thanks for watching and happy paddling

Miniature Shoulder Plane Availability

Thu, 06/25/2020 - 20:08
Miniature Shoulder Plane Availability nick Thu, 06/25/2020 - 20:08

As many of you have discovered, the Veritas Miniature Shoulder Plane  used in the Robo-Bevel is currently (as of June 25, 2020) out of stock. They were originally expected to be back in stock by June 30th, but that date is being delayed as well.

The little planes are made in Canada by Veritas and their factory has been on limited production due to COVID. I have been in contact with them regarding options for finding the planes. Some of you who live near a Lee Valley Tools store may be in luck, some stores have a limited supply, but often just a display model remaining. But your best bet is to just place an order on the Lee Valley site.

I am also investigating getting discounted pricing on the little shoulder planes myself so I can make it easier for customers to find it. That is secondary at this point, but it does sound like if you place an order through Lee Valley Tools they are shipping out the tools as soon as they arrive from the factory.

Here is what Shannon at Lee Valley customer services has to say:

Hello again.  We’re still waiting for a response about your possible discount, but wanted to follow-up with you on this in the meantime.

It shows that there are a few scattered in some of our retail stores, but they are unable to ship and in most cases those end up being display models, so they aren’t really available for mail order.  Their best bet if they want one is to simply place a mail order for it with us.  We do not charge in advance for mail order backorders, so while they would have to provide a credit card to place the order, we don’t actually bill them until stock is available and ships to them. This will simply put them in the queue to receive one once they’re back in stock.

While we have estimated due dates in our system for the full order we have with the vendor (in this case our own machine shop), they are doing their best to send us partial shipments as they become available, so sometimes stock arrives earlier than the posted dates.   We actually received a small batch of 60 of these planes yesterday, for example, but they are all spoken for as they have gone to fulfill pending backorders.      

Hopefully we will have an answer about your discount request soon as we will be in touch again about it.

Internet Customer Service
Lee Valley Tools Ltd.

If you are really desperate you can try contacting sources on their dealer list. I have had customers in Europe and elsewhere have success with local dealers as well.

Hopefully the back orders will be filled soon, I am still shipping the Robo-bevels so you can have that in hand when the miniature shoulder plane shows up.

Glassing - Petrel Build - E9

Sat, 05/23/2020 - 16:18
Glassing - Petrel Build - E9 nick Sat, 05/23/2020 - 16:18

Today I fiberglass. In this video I talk about the cleaning up stain bleed-through and then get fiberglassing. I discuss the time line of glassing and what I use for fill coat

This is the Strip Built Petrel design.

Support my Patreon at:


Other Tools:

hey welcome back to the Guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade in this bill I'm
working on a petrel love stripped old
petrol which is a 17 foot
high-performance sea kayak and building
this for a customer if you are just
tuning into this series
this build is something I actually did
over a year ago so this footage is a
little bit old I'm just now getting
around to editing it and I've just
stained the boat and I'm now ready to
fiberglass so let's watch how I did that
so it's 9:00 in the morning on glass and
day and I've got the heat cranked up
it's starting to warm up in here I need
to roll out the glass and you know get
ready to apply some epoxy before I can
do that there's a few places on my
accent strips here where I get a little
bit of bleed in under the tape I want to
clean that up I'm really pleased with
how the CA glue resists worked on the
accent stripes on the deck those came
out perfect just a tape alone here on
the hull was not bad you know most of it
is perfectly clean but there's a few
places was a little bleed through think
maybe in the future I will use the CA
glue on the whole length I just didn't
feel like doing that given the length of
the scene there but a little bit of prep
work and then I'll be glassing so here I
have a little bit of bleed through here
I have a little chisel that I put a
little bit of sandpaper on it doesn't
look like much it's a little bit 120
grit sandpaper it's about the width of
the strip this bleed through is very
thin it doesn't take much to actually
get rid of it so I'm just going to come
here the sandpaper
doesn't make it go away completely but
it really feeds it down so we'll be
really unnoticeable
is around 10:30 now
I don't have to get everything ready
the hole first and then the deck
it's just past 11:30 depth the hull and
the deck done and the temperature in
here is about 80 degrees I'm not sure
what that is
Celsius but pretty warm it's wet out
nicely everything looks good they go to
crunch up and so I have a nice matte
finish I don't want it to look glassy
she's got a few glossy spots but that's
okay it's all looking good I will
probably come back right after lunch and
give this a fill cup so it's just about
2 o'clock now so the epoxies had a
couple hours secure it's a little bit
harder than it needs to be but it's
still soft I'm going to put fill coats
and both the hull on the deck but the
hull is just going to get a light-filled
coat I'm going to put another layer of
glass on it later after it put put the
deck and Hall together and get the stems
on put another layer of glass on on the
deck I'm going to give it a full fill
coat actually trying to bury the weed I
will spread some epoxy on the hall and
then squeegee it off and with the deck I
will brush it on heavy and triangle a
nice levels coat on let's just get to it
looks like the camera stopped recording
about 10 minutes ago maybe but got the
full cone over the whole deck I hit it
with the blowtorch to pop bubbles level
it out nicely the hall has a squeegee
down on bilko again this is just to
start to fill the weave so when I put
the next coat of cloth on I can sand it
without sanding into the glass otherwise
after I squeegeed it to a matte finish
there's deep pores in between the fibers
of the yarns that you can't get to with
the sandpaper and so when you go to D
closet and get a better mechanical bond
you can't sand it sufficiently to really
get them you know it's fine but not as
good as it could be so by putting this
spill coat on I have filled down into
the pores in the texture I might just
touch the top of the wheel but I won't
be sanding down just a note here
I used web system 105 resin and 207
hardener for the fill coat I find it
levels better than mas that I used to
wet out the cloth I found the mas West
out the cloth really nicely doesn't have
a lot of smell and when I go to do the
fill Co I just find the 207 works a
little bit better in that application
so that's an overview of the
fiberglassing process to recap I rolled
out the cloth I smoothed out the
wrinkles pulling on the cloth a little
bit and brushing it down with a chip
brush and then I wet out the cloth using
mas low viscosity epoxy resin I let that
set up for a little while
and then I applied a Philco on the hull
I applied a sort of light fill coat that
I squeegeed on just enough to fill up
the pores of the texture of the fabric
and on the deck I did a heavy fill coat
where I really tried to fill it up
completely in in the step towards the
final finish so for the wet out I used
an MAS epoxy some call it mas and on the
fill coat I use West's systems using the
207 hardener with the 105 resin I find
the MAS wets out the cloth more easily
and doesn't smell much I used to working
with it and does a beautiful job but I
find for the fill coats mas works fine
if that's what you got use it it works
great but the west's system seems to
level out a little bit better makes a
smoother finish which just requires a
little less sanding when it comes time
to do that you know the difference is
minimal but it makes a difference so
that's why I did that so in the next
episode I will work on the combing and
start to clean up the inside you'll see
how far I get again this is a video from
over a year ago I forget what did I even
have in the can so how long the video is
depends on what I've got there so if you
enjoyed this episode and you like seeing
how these boats go together I really
appreciate your support any kind of
support you can provide is really
appreciated just liking this video helps
the exposure of it lets more people see
it in the more
let's see it the more exposure I get and
I can earn more through the ads and you
know it just gets the word out there and
otherwise follow hit subscribe turn on
notifications all that stuff I also have
a patreon page where if you want to
provide some direct support towards
these videos that's an opportunity to do
that there but really what pays for
these videos the most is if you buy
planes or my book I've got two books
actually on the process of strip
building boats one specifically on
building sea kayaks another on generally
about building strip build small boats
and that boat includes the offsets for
this petrel design so if you want to
build one of these petrels that's a
great resource you get the book as 2295
something like that and that includes
all the offsets which are members which
you can graph out and draw out the plans
full size yourself otherwise you go to
my website Gilliam at kayaks calm I've
got full-size plans with this boat and a
lot of other designs there and with
those planes you can take the sheet of
paper glue it to a sheet of half-inch
MDF and cut out around the lines and
you'll have a set of forms to start
building your own boat and you will also
find a lot of my videos there with
descriptions on what's in it above and
beyond the whatever voiceover I did in
the video and there's a lot of
information there about the whole
process of building boats so any support
you can provide is deeply appreciated so
until the next episode again thanks for
watching and happy paddling

Stripping up the Front Deck - microBootlegger Sport - E24

Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:46
Stripping up the Front Deck - microBootlegger Sport - E24 nick Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:46

Adding strips to one side of the front deck.


Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site:


Morning Mandolin - Chris Haugen Banjo Hop - Audionautix: is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license ( Artist:

good morning welcome back to another day
in the Guillemot kayaks boat shop I'm Nick
Schade. today we will be doing more
stripping go figure
I'm getting really close to finishing up
the stripping here today I'll be
primarily working on the front deck the
back deck I'll leave for another day
but I should be able to get mostly up
one side of the front deck you've seen
most of this before so I'm not going to
spend a lot of time talking there's not
too much to say but I'll show where I am
with the cockpit and obviously I don't
need to strip over the cockpit I'm gonna
cut a big hole there in the long run so
no point laying down a bunch of wood
there and trying to make it all fit and
then come back and saw it all out again
I put several reference lines on these
forms to help me figure out where things
are happening and as guides for
stripping under here there's some
diagonal lines at this angle that
defines the chine or feature line
between the side of the boat and the
back deck of the boat up here I've got
some slots where the recess of the
calming is going to be over here these
slots also define where the recess of
the calming is going to be and there's a
hole in here that's where the edge of
the recess is going to be we've cut that
hole in there so when I saw through here
I'll just saw right through those forms
and that hole will give clearance for
the saber saw or jigsaw to cut through
there the cockpit is in this area
so I've already stripped beyond the
cockpit here on both sides and so now
the strips can start to get shorter
substantially shorter here I'll probably
bring it a little bit long out into this
area and so as I'm peeling off the tape
just as a to help remind me where I can
go I'll leave this tape on here in other
words the strip will end right before
this tape and so pull all the tape off
so that'll be my guide for how far to
run the next strip
now this is where I switch to just doing
one side at a time if I were to run a
strip up here on this side it would end
up hitting this strip and so this is
interfering with getting a tight fit on
that side and so basically this strip
has crossed the center line a little bit
so from here on out I'm just going to
add strips on one side having them
overhang the center line sufficiently
that I can cut them off and trim that
center line to a nice straight line
without having any gaps you may have
noticed that I wasn't stopping to do the
hot melt glue stitches along here you
may even see some places here where the
yellow glue between the strip's does not
appear to be completely dry it's not
completely dry where it squeezed out but
in between the strips where it got
pressed and squeezed tightly together it
stacked up sufficiently but I can take
the tape off as soon as I'm done with
one side I can switch to the other side
and take the tape off and keep on going
however now I'm only going to be working
on one side so I won't have enough time
for that glue to set up between
finishing up one strip and adding the
next strip so I'll end up at this point
starting to add those hot melt glue
stitches as I go that way it can take
the tape off and add a new strip before
that yellow carpenters glue between the
strip's has fully set up
this is a really tight radius up here
which means that it's going to take a
lot of beveling to get a tight seam
between this strip and the next strip
you see this strips at an angle like
this and I'm holding the Robo bevel at
an angle like this that means the angle
between this strip and the next strip is
pretty extreme
all right we're making progress now
I'm gonna break for lunch and continue
on with this afterwards or see how far
we get I think I got to be able to cover
all the way to the centerline today and
the excellent
okay I've used up all the strips I set
aside for the side of the boat but I
still have here's the centerline right
here and here's the centerline right
there so the line crosses these strips
right up in there so I've got a little
bit left to go I forget exactly where
the cockpit comes through here I think
it comes right through like this and
basically just kisses this form you know
so if I stuck one more strip there and I
would cover that centerline there but
just to make sure I'm I think I'll put a
couple strips there I know there's not
going to be much showing there there's a
strip here running out to maybe about
there and then mirror image on the other
side so I want to pick some wood that's
going to be similar to what we've got
here and so what I've got is these are
the off cuts from the forward end of the
strips running in so this is strip 26 26
25 24 so here I have strip 24 25 and 26
and again that's the forward end of
these three strips so those I know those
are going to be similar in tone to
what's already here just because they're
part of the same strip but I do have a
little bit of a dark streak running
right through here running up to here
and these are quite light in color they
don't have a whole lot going on so I cut
these strips all off right here and I
have this bundle of strips back here
that are just the off cuts from that by
the way a lot of waste when you're doing
this book matching because all of this
gets cut off and
left but let's see what we have here for
color wise so if I find strip 26 this is
strip 26 it's got some of those same
streaks that we see in here your strip
25 here I'm just looking for some strip
so they're gonna match color wise just
across that center line and I think what
I'll end up doing I run from here back
to here with this strip that's 20 strip
likewise strip 25 will have a set of
strips that the tiny little triangle we
see in here will look like it's matching
pretty well with the surrounding strips
I think that's what I'm gonna do is just
put in those two strips so this is strip
26 25 and we'll cut these two strips so
those are the next strips that are gonna
come in here and that should be plenty
to cross that center line
and crossing the center line they're
stuck down now chances are excellent
that none of this strip here will end up
in the finish boat the cockpit will come
up and trim off most of that and it's
likely that is just gonna be a little
bit of this strip showing but now with
that green going on it should be fine so
you know I in the best of all possible
worlds I would have included a couple
more strips to in this bundle to get all
the way there but frankly you know I'm
using two feet of this strip here and
you know there's going to be one
probably less than an inch of this strip
showing here and so it's kind of a waste
of a full length strip to just fill in
that tiny little bit but you know if
we're really trying to maintain the book
match to the bitter end that's what we
could do but nobody's gonna see this
it's gonna be a tiny little sliver there
and if I've got matching from the other
side so I mirror this little piece in
there it's gonna be awesome so that was
pretty quick this morning we started
about down here and you know 1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 strips on this side
today that's pretty good progress but I
think it's cool you're starting to see
the pattern come out here I've got this
sort of dark streaks coming down like
this and converging here and when we get
the other side matching that I think
it's really going to look awesome this
is where
all the hard work of trying to figure
out the matching pattern and so forth
starts to pay off and tomorrow when we
get fitted on the other side I think
it's really gonna looks like I had a few
issues that almost threw me off but I
was able to catch them in time and it's
looking awesome
so if you're enjoying and watching this
series please hit subscribe you know if
you've watched all the way through this
video give me a thumbs up give me a like
if you want to give me any more support
go to patreon and the token amount there
is really appreciated
so next episode we will trim down the
center line and start stripping up the
other side and there's going to be an
accent strip going in on that center
line and I haven't exactly figured out
how I'm going to do that but tricky
thing about that is I want the center of
the center line centered on the center
line and if I have a accent strip of a
certain width I need to make sure that I
offset the center line sufficiently by
that with that accent line so it ends up
the center line is centered on the
center line if you're looking forward to
that and it subscribe and until next
episode thanks for watching and happy

Pattern Restoration - microBootlegger Sport - E23

Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:37
Pattern Restoration - microBootlegger Sport - E23 nick Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:37

Getting back on track with the book match pattern after discovering a mistake.


Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site:

Oh welcome back to the guillemot kayaks
workshop I'm Nick Schade so yesterday I
discovered that a couple of my strips
were out of sequence in the book match
that was not fun what I ended up doing
was taking my heat gun and softening the
yellow carpenters glue and using a putty
knife and peeling those strips off so I
stripped off the strip's and now I have
taken and taking those strips and lay
them out on my bench with all the other
strips just to check and see what the
sequence really should have been and
what I can do to fix it and it looks
like I had strip 11 from one side
swapped with strip strip 11 from the
other side and that ended up flipping
over the grain and just making things a
little bit out of whack now I've laid
them out
swapped them back where they're supposed
to be and it looks like it's going to
match up just fine so here's the layout
of the strips this is what I did to
check to see what was going on and this
is as I originally had them laid out and
if you look over here here we've got
grain coming in like this and this grain
comes in like this and so there's this
these two strips are sort of mirror
image of each other not a perfect match
but pretty close so this is the
offending strip and over here this is
the offending strip over here so what I
determined was that this strip actually
belongs over here and this strip
actually belongs over here approximately
like this now we've got the dark spot
going like that and grain going like
that and got a little hump here a little
hump here so this is about where it's
supposed to line up and likewise this
one over here everything's oriented the
right way we've got some dark streaks
in various places here that correspond
to what I would expect and we will
notice that right here we have a
mirror-image situation happen again so
this is what I was expecting
when I laid the strips out I matched
them this way as well as this way and so
I expected a mirror image line happening
at some point and so when I saw it on
the boat it didn't shock me initially
when I installed these strips it's when
I went and put the next strip on that I
was getting a double mirror image so I
was getting grain running in a zigzag
that I was saying hey that's not how
it's supposed to be I'm supposed to have
one spot where it mirrors and then
narrowing up against the center line
again but I'm not supposed to end up
with zigzag grain what I'm going to end
up doing is installing this strip on
this side and this strip on this side
I'm just double-checking this and I
think we got it figured out here I'm
just gonna start by taking the glue off
this top edge just a little bit of
residue left over from stripping that
strip off of there and so I'm just going
to lightly plane it
and that just removes that layer glue
okay so I'm back to where I was at the
beginning of the day yesterday I've got
these strips glued in place I've put
some hot melt stitches on them because
I'm going to go ahead and add next strip
right on top of it back here behind the
cockpit there's a lot of twist to this
strip and so when I was beveling it it
took a lot of time with the Rolo bevel
to chew away at that upper edge and make
a good tight joint there and now I've
hot melt glue the strips down tight
against the forms there to hold them
there I could have pre twist him with
some heat but it happens over such a
long distance I felt it was easy enough
to just glue them down tight and voila
glue while the hot milk was cooling
because it was under so much stress I
put some bracket clamps on each of the
forms just to hold it while that glue
dries now I should be able to strip all
that stuff off strip off all the tape
and start doubling this strip making it
ready to accept the next
so this afternoon I did all right
I you know I only got three strips on
but I recovered from the mistake on the
stripping pattern and I think it's
nobody will ever know I ever had an
issue you look pretty sharp I think it's
just coming along nice you know all I
have to do for a little while is keep on
adding strips it's not the most exciting
stuff but you know I think the results
will be worthwhile when the pattern all
comes together I think it's gonna look
sharp so it's kind of fun I'm getting to
the easier part of the stripping I there
was a lot of twist back in here and
having to bevel the full length of the
strip took a while but at this point
we're getting up to the part where it's
just sort of so the next episode will be
more of the same I think I'll probably
get up to the point where I'm just
stripping one side and again I'll strip
across the center line and in
preparation for trimming that back and
stripping in from the other side and
back here at the stern I've started to
get past the marks that show where the
feature line defining the back deck
occurs and so I've started shortening
those strips I'll pretty soon get to the
point where I will have stripped up to
the width of the cockpit and at that
point there's no point running the
strip's past the cockpit I'll just be
working on the front half of the boat
and that will go a lot quicker and so
things should accelerate pretty soon so
if you're sitting through all these
videos I think I deserve a thumbs-up
give me a like if you're watching a
bunch of these videos hit subscribe my
supporters on patreon get access to the
videos a couple days early so until the
next episode thanks for watching and
happy paddling

Stripping Strips - microBootlegger Sport - E22

Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:30
Stripping Strips - microBootlegger Sport - E22 nick Sat, 05/23/2020 - 15:30

So, I found a couple strips out of sequence. I had to strip off the strips.


Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site:

So yesterday I flipped the boat over and
started stripping on the deck and today
it's just continuing on with stripping
on the deck my goal is to get as far as
I can the one point of interest today is
I will be crossing the back deck shine
line and as I do that I no longer need
to run the strips full length and so
it's just a matter of running them down
as far as needed to cover that shine
line and then lopping them off short so
that's what we'll be working on
as I was working on getting ready to put
the next strip on top of here I noticed
something that didn't look about right
if you notice right here we've got sort
of a mirror image of the grain looks
cool and I was prepared to have that
happen but when I went to put this strip
on now we've got another mirror image so
it's making a v-shape here and that's
not supposed to happen so I took a
little bit of time I stopped everything
took some time to evaluate what's going
on and I'm not exactly sure I figured it
exactly what happened but seems that
this strip is swapped so it should
probably be on the other side this is
strip 11 and strip 11 on the other side
should be on this side so they it looks
like they're swapped looking up here at
the bow this is cut off from this end of
strip 11
here's two cut off from the other side
and if you notice here I've got my
original Sharpie marks on here as well
as some pencil marks showing that this
was the top here is the cut offs from
strip 10 strip 10 and there and here's
those Sharpie marks again you look here
and I flip this down there's a Sharpie
marks there and I flip this up there's a
Sharpie marks there so these are
supposed to end up like this
so the Sharpie marks be on the same side
so it looks like somehow these strips
strip 11 get flipped over and swapped
side to side somehow as best as I can
tell so what I'm thinking of doing to
maintain the patter and make sure the
pattern doesn't get messed up is peel
this whole strip 11 off of both sides
and it's not the easiest thing to do but
heat gun should get that off of there
should soften up the yellow carpenters
glue they ought to be able to get that
off of there and then I can end up
flipping them over or swapping side to
side we'll see I'll take some time to
examine it at that point and see which
makes more sense
well I was no fun at all shows what you
can do with a little heat the strip came
off it's pretty clean
first first side I had a little bit more
struggle getting it off have to pay
attention to the grain orientation the
putty knife I was using would tend to
ride up into the grain if I wasn't
paying attention
it'll all go together fine in the end
I'm sure but bit of a hassle I think I'm
going to just call this it for right now
sleep on it a little bit aside exactly
how I'm going to approach the fix I
think it's just a matter of taking this
trip putting it over there and that
strip putting it over here basically
flipping it over and I think it'll work
out fine the one issue I have is this
one I had not yet beveled the top edge
but the other one that I just pulled off
I had beveled the top edge therefore
there's material missing from that strip
so the reason I'm thinking about
flipping it to the other side is that
way the bevel that I have will end up
against the bevel that's existing here I
might end up with a little bit of an
open bevel on the interior but that I
can deal with when I come to it on the
inside so tomorrow will be recovery day
from this I will
I'll put these strips back where they're
supposed to be and hopefully keep on
stripping from there so all that support
stuff likes subscriptions patreon all
that stuff go ahead and do that while
you have a chance and we'll talk to you
again tomorrow and so until then thanks
for watching and happy paddling

Applying Carbon Fiber by Hand

Mon, 04/27/2020 - 13:36
Applying Carbon Fiber by Hand nick Mon, 04/27/2020 - 13:36

During this time of COVID-19 I've thought people stuck in their homes may enjoy a little live entertainment. To that end, I have started doing some livestreams on Facebook and Youtube. The project I'm working on in my shop right now is finishing up a microBootlegger that was built in a class. The student who won the raffle after the class wanted my to finish the boat and install seats. At this point he just wants one seat, but one of my nice wood ones. He may get another seat from me later on.

In this video I am working on those seats. I carve the wood itself using my CNC machine, after some sanding I reinforce the wood with fabric and epoxy. In this video I am adding Carbon Fiber to the bottom. I will later sand the other side and fiberglass the top.

I intend to more of these livestreams on various subjects, please check out my Facebook and Youtube channels for more information.

okay so I don't know how this is working
but hopefully it works well um what I'm
going to be doing today is I'm going to
be making seats like this
I've already carved the wood bit and I
I'm going to be putting carbon fiber on
the back here on the bottom side so I
have several of these all carved ready
to go and look these will this one's
something like that um that's gonna be
what the finished product looks like so
at this point I'm putting carbon fiber
on the bottom I will then sand out the
top and fiberglass the top so we get the
black on the bottom and the clear glass
on the top so that's what we're looking
to make so I have the wood bits here
pretty much ready to go
I've sanded this all out a sheet of
carbon fiber here and we are going to
lay that on the seat
all right and I do have I do have my
iPad over here so it's possible I'll be
able to look over every once in a while
and see if there's any questions being
asked feel free to give it a try if I'm
a little slow in answering your
questions I am going to be a little bit
busy over here but feel free and I
appreciate your questions so if we look
at this piece the carbon-fiber ear wraps
all the way around the back comes up the
middle comes up these leg supports and
to the front one thing you may notice in
order to have that happen meeting in the
front these legs and and I want to get
some carbon fiber down on to that
section there so the carbon fiber will
be coming in on either side here I don't
want a blank spot in here so I'm going
to cut some little tab to fit in there
I'm gonna do that by its cut and so
those will fit somewhere in here what
I've done to make this a little bit
easier to work with is I have what I've
done to make this a little bit easier to
work with is I have a couple boxes here
taped to the seat just so I have a
support and it's fairly secure these are
the handles for my Robo metal I've got a
bunch of them in recently so these boxes
are full they're not super heavy but
they've got a little bit of mass to them
so the thing doesn't shift around too
much water all right
no from Dee Dixon so hello thanks for
tuning in so the first thing I'm going
to work on is those little
bits in here so I want to get them
wrapped up around the front end of this
leg and sort of inch or so wide up to
the front of the seat that way when that
layer of carbon fiber wraps around it
will not have a blank spot in there so
we're going to use a piece right out of
this this is the sheet I'm going to cut
the seat out of wrap the seat in and I'm
just going to take some of this and put
a 45 degree angle so the weave of the
cloth is going like this and like this
and so I'm going to cut at a 45 degree
angle and you might I'm not sure how
high-resolution the image is for you but
you might be able to actually see that
where this weave crosses it creates some
diagonal lines so I'm just going to
follow those diagonal lines so I get a
nice 45 with the weed and then I'm going
to cut a piece a couple inches wide so
the reason I cut this at a 45 degree
angle let's quickly show you that so you
see how easily it stretches and distorts
here and it all seems a nice clean edge
there so I can pull on it I can make it
wider you can make it longer so that
that will end up distorting easily
around this complex shape I have to deal
with I'm gonna start cutting off the end
and I think this should be enough for
both legs I'm just gonna cut it in half
so the theory here just show you on a
sample piece the theory is I'm going to
lay it down there and then wrap it all
the way around like that so that way the
front edge of the leg covered in that
strip where the two pieces are going to
meet will also be covered and so I'm
going to get that wet out nicely and
hopefully that will blend in to the
final product so to that end I'm going
to put on some gloves I'm probably gonna
take my gloves off at various times and
if you've ever dealt with these gloves
your hands are all sweaty it can be real
difficult to get the gloves off so to
account for that my plane is to actually
put on several pairs of gloves
so this one they're not another pair in
that way as I get one pair of glove all
sticky I can just peel that off and have
a fresh pair of gloves on underneath I'm
wearing this poopy suit just to keep the
epoxy off my clothes and off my skin I
probably should be wearing my organic
vapor respirator at the same time so I
have a full PPE on everything but if I
try and talk while I'm wearing this I'll
sound like Charlie Brown's teacher so
I'm not gonna have that off so so now
I've got three layers of gloves on maybe
I'll go with one more
these gloves are pretty thin so you
don't lose too much dexterity with
multiple pairs on but it does start to
build up eventually bring this in or I
can work on it now I have got some epoxy
here this happens to be the MAS low
viscosity with the slow I have also
taken this and was sitting next to a
light bulb for the past couple hours so
that liquid is actually somewhat warm
and I've also warmed up the shop here to
about 75 Fahrenheit something like 20
degrees Celsius it's pretty cold out so
that's that's a good temperature in here
sometimes I'll warm it up even more
but for now we'll start with that I've
got a mixing container here this is just
a quart deli container so with the epoxy
you want one pump to one pump so I'm not
sure how much I want in here you know I
don't want to make a huge amount all at
once because I'm gonna it's gonna be a
fairly slow process to get this all wet
out and I don't want this gearing on me
too much so they start with small
batches and so I pump up the resin and
one on the harbor and I always know that
they gonna be starting resin and
finishing on the hardener so instead of
going one two three four five one two
three and then the phone rings I'm just
going to continue to do one pump and one
pump do make sure the pump rise all the
way to the top
these are just ketchup or mustard pumps
they're not like high-tech scientific
instruments these pumps they'd happen to
work quite well but you need to baby
them a little bit run it all the way
down to the bottom each all right that's
probably gonna be enough for now you
know I've got an inch or so on the
bottom now I won't think about a shop
where we build strip build boats we
never lack for stirring sticks so we
want to thoroughly stir this and usually
they say stir for about a minute some
people say two minutes the thing to be
sure you do is make sure it's thoroughly
mixed and so a lot of these plastic cups
have sort of ridges in the bottom that
can be hard to you know sort of
reservoirs of unmixed resin so you want
to make sure you dig down into those
scrape down the sides a lot and keep
stirring vigorously for a fair amount of
time here
right so just getting this well and
thoroughly mixed again scrape down the
side several times as you go and I tend
to like to hold the cup at a bit of an
angle so it's constantly running down
into that bottom corner and that way if
I mix down into that bottom corner
I sort of know that's a place where all
the resins gonna end up there eventually
so I'll hold it a bit of an angle okay I
also like to have a fairly deep
container just you know especially when
I'm working on a boat I'm wandering
around carrying this container of epoxy
and you know if you use a small
container that's almost full any little
angle you tip it you end up drooling the
epoxy all over the floor so a deep one
just controls that urge to drip all over
the place so brush is a simple chip
brush this is an inch and a half thirty
eight millimeter something like that
I like these brushes they're cheap
they're disposable and the bristles are
primarily white width and what that
means and it doesn't matter too much in
this application but if you're doing
fiberglass those white bristles
essentially turn clear in the epoxy so
if you end up losing a bristle in the
epoxy you're probably not going to see
it so chip brushes work well so get the
brush wet out and I'm going to apply
some resin to this area where I'm going
to be putting low pieces of cloth so
sort of pre wet out
so there's something for the fabric to
stick to you saw me blow at this little
these threads of carbon fiber they're
very tenacious they want to stay and
it's not really a big deal to disappear
but just trying to keep it a little bit
me I'm going to take this piece and lay
it up on the foot and out to the end of
the seat there and get it well saturated
so I had written here before I've had a
place to stick and this this carbon fuck
really sucks up a fair amount of resin
if you're used to working with
fiberglass you know four ounce
fiberglass or something
the carbon fiber sucks up a lot more
resin and fiberglass does and it could
be a little hard to deal with sometimes
because you think you should have it all
wet out there should be plenty of resin
in there but it just sucks up so much
too you need to be prepared for that all
likewise on this side
so I have three of these seats to do
so actually two of them going to use
this carbon fiber on the third I have a
heart hybrid carbon Kevlar will
hopefully be getting to three different
seats today all right so now I've got
that little tab located in there now I
want to get some epoxy over the whole
thing because I'm gonna lay glass over
the whole thing or carbon fiber and it
will just help to have a little bit of
something to adhere to as I'm laying
that down I'm not putting it on too
thick but this way I don't need to count
them wedding out the you know saturating
the wood through the cloth I know that
there's at least the starter layer of
resin over the whole
I'm trying to move fairly fast here
because the resin just keeps on getting
thicker and thicker the longer you let
it sit so the quicker I get it out of
the cup on to the piece I'm working on
the better it's going to perform the
easy old beat for saturating the fabric
and saturating the wood all right let's
see what happens here
so I think I'm going to try and pick up
the carbon fiber and again this carbon
fiber wants to stick to everything and
so instead of peeling off the glove just
yet I'm gonna wipe my hands down with
the rag try and get them somewhat clean
and now I have this piece of carbon
fiber lay it down like this
all right so I don't know that it shows
up on the video but there is this
diagonal line running through the due to
the twill weave meeting together and I'm
trying to line that with the center line
and so it's running straight four and a
half Thanh the seat doesn't matter that
much on the seat like this which was
hard to see but so I'm gonna just try
and start to get this to conform to the
shape of the seat and again since I did
this at a diagonal so the weaves going
this way and this way and I have these
linear lines from the feet going this
way that means that the fabric is
running the cross like this and across
like this so it's not hitting that
corner and having to wrap straight up it
can hit that at a diagonal that eases
that corner a little bit makes a little
bit easier for that to make it around
the corner and I've cut that resin on
there to give it a little bit of initial
all right so that's starting to get in
place there now I've got excess here on
those legs I don't need it to run across
the bottom of the legs come straight
down here in the back of the leg and now
wrap that in there like wire inside all
the way to the end of that maybe
slightly beyond all right now let's get
rid of some of the excess around the
edge here
and this here will trim so even with the
front alright that looks like it's
conforming fairly well now we start
wetting that out and I'm gonna start
here the hardest part is this turn from
the bottom up the side of the leg I'm
just gonna ease it down into that corner
likewise on the other side so I'm eating
it down into the corner there
so when I made this see I made sure
there was a pretty good transition
radius between the bottom and the side
of that leg that way make it as easy as
possible for the fabric to make that
transition so now I'm going to just get
a good amount of resin onto that carbon
fiber stuck down brushing it so much I'm
dabbing it down I want the fabric to
conform to the shape and again is that
it that sort of bias diagonal which
makes it easy to distort so if I pull on
this too much it runs the risk of
pulling that we out of place so I'm just
dabbing it down but I'm really using the
ability of this fabric to distort and
wrap around complex shapes and the
carbon fiber is really very good at it
it's amazing the contours with the
carbon fiber will wrap around and if
you're used to working with the glass
the obvious thing you notice here is
with fiberglass starts out white goes
nice and clear the carbon fiber here
stops out black and gets even blacker so
it's hard to know whether it got enough
resin on it I don't know if I can get it
up here so you can see but over on this
side it's got a certain gloss to it and
over on that side you see it's sort of
blacker and you see the dry stuff at the
bottom edge there so you see I don't
have that train I get a little bit wet
out up at the top you really need to pay
attention to how the color of the cloth
changes to see if it's fully wet out
when it's a little bit dry like right at
the butt cheeks there it's a little bit
of a dry spot it's a little
to see and a naturist coming through on
the video just gonna take a little bit
more resin so let's get this use what
I've got here
so one thing about this layup doing a
hand layup like this you know people
think of carbon fibers being lightweight
this is not a particularly lightweight
layout because I'm doing hand layup and
I'm putting on probably more pots either
going to needs I'm really using the
carbon fiber here because it looks cool
I think it's a kind of cool look with
this having the black underside so it
just makes a nice contrast between the
bright wood on the top and the black on
the side so I've pretty much got that
all saturated this is always a tough
place right back here sort of at the
heel of that foot there's a lot going on
right there and you do want to make sure
you're wet all the way up to the top
edge of that foot and a little bit
beyond and at the front edge here I'm
wrapping this layer around the corner a
bit so that first piece I put in is well
covered and I can sand into little into
the second piece a little bit and
feather it in so you don't see that
transition very well I can blend that in
pretty nicely
it is the underside of the seat so if
it's not perfect it's gonna be hard for
anybody to see but you want a nice job
just in case somebody pulls it out so
now I need a squeegee
small squeegee here and a little paper
Dixie cup I'm gonna tape and cut a
little slit at the top of the Dixie cup
just like that I tend to cut it right on
where the paper is doubles doubled up
for the seam on that so it's just a
little bit stronger plastic cups don't
work very well for this they last
longest so I'm going to now just lightly
take the excess off run it through my
slot there
something Rory's asking must be
underneath be done with carbon what a
fiberglass no absolutely the carbon
fiber is just for appearances
fiberglass would work just fine in this
application the carbon fiber just looks
cool so you do not need to use carbon
fiber on your seats unless you want to
and I just think it looks cool
so I'm taking the excess here just
lightly scraping the surface and bong it
through that slot in the cup and that
leaves the squeegee nice and clean and a
little bit of resin gets in the cup
every time
I'm not putting a whole lot of pressure
on this I'm just trying to get the bulk
of the excess off get to the cloth press
down tight against the wood as much as
possible oh if you're using glass you
could you make it a lot more pieces if
this you know I'm trying to do it in
this minimal number of pieces here
because I want the weave of the fabric
to have a nice continuous look to it but
you know if you're using fiberglass
that's clear you know you're not going
to see the weave so you can patch it
together and feather the edges in
together but the the carbon fiber does
look cool
all right so that's one just about ready
over there and I'm just going the back
edge of these again in this area it
really wants to pull off of that so I'm
just going to use my fingers there even
some wood showing up just make sure it's
well pushed down into those Phillips all
the way around I'm just going to take
this one
so I have another one here be much the
same deal this is one that I cut on my
scene see machine actually all of these
I cut it several years ago but this one
is super thin I actually cracked it over
here just trying to trim it off the
other day I don't know that this will
actually survive in the long run but I
figured I'll put some epoxy on it and
carbon fiber and just see what happens
it's some not something I'll give to a
customer but maybe I'll put it in one of
my own boats it'll be super lightweight
because it's so thin it's it's less than
a millimeter thick was cracked right in
here and basically there's it's probably
half a millimeter or less thick so it's
not really strong but we'll see I think
with the carbon fiber glass over the
result will be plenty tough
right now I need another of those little
pieces right there so I'll cut it out of
so again I'm cutting the triangle pieces
off in and then I will just cut that in
half so those are ready to go now this
will mix up a little bit more box
so again I just choose a system for
yourself I want to go with the resin
first in a hardener second just to be
consistent and so I'm putting it in this
presentation so it's a little bit more
lively cold when I go to reach with it
reach it with my hand so that first
batch I made was just about the right
amount to do the whole seat
and again I'm just double-checking that
the pumps risen all the way back to the
top here and finishing on the hardener
so that's about the same amount as they
made last time is about the inch the
quarters of an inch in the bottom of
that so any questions over here lucky
dogs talking about the two by two twill
weave being good at conforming and I
think I think that's true
so this twill weave goes to over to
under to over two hundred and so then
the next year next yarn over does the
same but starts one yarn different so it
ends up with a diagonal line and that
twelve weave makes it does make it
really conform easily but I must say
that even a plain weave over-under
over-under seems to work pretty well
maybe not as well as the twelve but this
will just seems compared to fiberglass
just seems to conform better yeah
asking the weight on this cloth this is
a six ounce cloth and your regular twill
wheat or regular plain weed so this is a
plain weave cloth and this is a twill
weave cloth he's I don't know if that
difference shows up well but you can see
the distinct diagonal lines going
through the twill there is a diagonal
going through the plain weave also but
that over under over that two over two
under seems to make a difference if not
as much holding it down and technically
I believe the twill is a little bit
stronger given the same weight because
there's fewer crimps each time you've
the fabric it weakens the fabric a
little bit and so at will since it's
half as many crimps it's a little bit
stronger but you know as far as weight
goes there are lighter weight fiber
lighter weight carbon fiber fabrics
available but they tend to get really
pricey these nominal six ounce claws are
fairly available they're pricey but not
nearly as pristine as some of the finer
weight cloth in carbon fiber in twill
and plain weave are fairly standard to
find and you're now able to find some
really cool weaves where they're making
really interesting patterns in them and
I should get some of that at some point
because we look cool you know they're
they're designed to be decorative so
again let's stir on that and now I will
once again let out the front edge of
these feet
and get this piece laid in there like so
and again this this shape that you're
able to lay that cloth in if you're
trying to do this not cutting on a bias
there's just no way you'd ever make it
make it wrap around it shaped like that
excusing so again get this little
saturated down there
so now I will pre coat the whole thing
and I'm laying it on pretty heavy here
you hold it they be handed with
because I want to have enough resin on
there to fully saturate the carbon fiber
because it takes take so much to suck up
into the fabric if so you know as far as
to the finished weight of this carbon
fiber versus of fiberglass if I were
using a six ounce 5s cloth versus a six
ounce carbon fiber cloth you know the
cloth is a per square yard weight
measurement and so which is heavier the
carbon fiber the blasts well they're
both exactly the same weight or
nominally the same weight so with the
carbon fiber since it's a less dense
cloth it actually sucks up a lot more
resin per square yard so as a
consequence a square yard of carbon
fiber in a hand layup versus a square
yard of fiberglass in a hand layup the
carbon fiber is going to be heavier it
should be stronger in you know the
carbon fiber strong stuff that's why you
can make lightweight things with it
don't expect to actually be saving
weight doing any kind of hand layup like
this you're really doing it because it
looks cool and I think it does look cool
alright so I'm gonna get this ready for
the layer of fabric just down over the
top of it and again I'm gonna try and
get that diagonal actually diagonal runs
both directions but it's more visible in
one direction than the other direction
so one side again I'm trying to get this
diagonal line lining up with the center
line just for visual appeal
all right so we have it loosely stuck
down here
trimming off the excess does make it
easier to wrap the fabric law around you
have less yarns you know these yarns out
here do affect how easily the fabric
wraps so by trimming them off you no
longer have to worry about how they're
interfering with your layout so again I
get that tucked in either side and then
I'm going to just run down
you're trying to record this on my other
camera because this will hopefully come
out as a standalone video on the process
and this morning I recorded the standing
process and I'll get the glass thing of
the topside eventually and then combine
that all into one longer video alright
so now we're just gonna get this dad
down the way so again you start by
getting it down into that fill up there
both sides
alright question from Monty Edwards
about how long I have with the epoxy I I
warmed this epoxy up before mixing it so
I had a light bulb around the jugs to
make it fairly warm it didn't get super
warm but you know they're warmed up over
the ambient temperature of the room a
bit that lowers the viscosity but also
speeds up the cure time and I warmed up
the shop here so I said earlier on the
shops probably in the I I got it up to
70 to 75 something like that
just to be a little bit warmer and just
before I started on this I turned the
heat off in the shop so from now on it
should be cooling overnight but the warm
shop speeds up the cure and the warm
epoxy speeds up the cure and if I had
this in a big jug with a lot mixed up
here the very fact that I had a lot
mixed up would speed up the cure the
epoxy is a exothermic reaction so as the
chemicals cure they give off some heat
and so the more epoxy you have the
faster it cures but once you get it
spread in film on the surface of your
boat or in this case a seat that slows
right down way down you know it's almost
immediately down to ambient room
temperature here once it's spread out on
but that is I gave it a little bit of a
boost as far as its ability to saturate
the fabric by warming it up so I have
probably 10 20 minutes after mixing this
up in this situation before I really
need to panic on it so I'm not you know
that's giving me plenty of time to get
this process done and I'm just mixing
the next batch in that same pot so even
though there's some you know partially
or partially cured epoxy in there
already basically you add new stuff but
it doesn't cure that much faster just
because you're already got Nick's stuff
in there I'm sure it makes does miss
Nick's faster but not enough to really
worry about so I think I've got this all
wet looking for dry spots all the way to
the edge so get my squeegee again
the cool recommending not to having
carbon fiber on the top side of the seat
so I'd a you don't burn your butt
probably good thought yeah you know I
like the look of the wood and the
finished seat but I also think the wood
actually looks better when is contrasted
with carbon fiber that that contrast
between the two sets the them both off
and a better light so I'm just trying to
get off the bulk of the excess here get
rid of them any major drips this will
all get a fill coat either tonight or
early tomorrow ideally I get this while
I was still tacky with a Philco but
we'll see how ambitious I am tonight my
feet using up all my energy trying to
make this live stream thing work alright
so there was a discussion on the
Facebook kayak building page one of the
kayak building pages in past few days
talking about when to apply fill coats
ideally the best time to apply a fill Co
is while the after the epoxy has cured
up sufficiently that is bonding the
fabric tightly down to the wood but
tacky enough that there's still good
chemical bonds hanging out there waiting
to make a good cure with the next coat
so that's sort of in a sticky state and
when that is really depends on the
temperature top
epoxy you're using etc so it's hard to
say the best way to tell let's just go
out and touch it
feel what it feels like and the
recommended test I heard from the folks
at mas epoxy is to use a cotton ball and
just dab the cotton ball onto the
surface if it's really wet like it is
now the cotton ball will just pull right
off and not pull any hairs off of it
because so wet that it's not really
stinky yet if I let it dry completely
you touch it with a cotton ball cotton
ball won't stick it off because it's
hard you want to find that place where
when you touch the cotton ball or q-tip
to the surface it sticks and pulls hairs
off the ball and that's a sign that you
know it was sticky and it's a good time
to apply a new coat you'll have chemical
bonds sitting out there waiting to do
their thing where if you wait too long
those chemical bonds are sort of used up
not available for new stuff to stick to
so last one here those two were mahogany
this is Western redcedar with a couple
accents of Alaskan yellow sea
and I'm going to be using this
carbon Kevlar hybrid claw actually
because these multiple pairs of gloves I
bought the fresh pair of gloves on
sticking so on the carbon fiber I use my
regular scissors I use four fiberglass
these will cut fiberglass and carbon
fiber no problem but trying to cut the
carbon it doesn't do anything catwalk so
I have this very scissors particularly
for a Kevlar and I'm not exactly sure
how they're sharpened differently they
have a little bit of a texture to it so
it keeps the yarns or fibers from
sliding along it grabs them a little bit
and I think the angles a little bit
different so again I'm gonna cut a
diagonal out of here and you see these
scissors no problem and I'm gonna get it
again the two inch wide piece here
this is one don't cut the other out of
this edge so I will once again mix up a
little bit more epoxy
so this likewise is a six ounce fabric
I'll show you a close-up in a moment but
it's still a twill so it's still two up
two down offsetting by one each time and
in this case it's alternating yarns of
Kevlar and carbon fiber so there's the
warp and weft of the seam or nominally
the same and it makes a nice little
twill pattern there a nice little sort
of houndstooth pattern but I think looks
cool and again you know it's probably
overkill for our purposes to be using
the exotic cloths like this but
basically I will just use a utility
knife you know little box cutter knife
and trim the edge and then I'll sand it
and that will make a nice sharp edge
there well with the Kevlar it can end up
fuzzing up a little bit but I found that
if that fuzz up happens you can just
keep all the finer and finer sand papers
and eventually the fuzz gets sanded down
to nothing so I I'm just letting
everything hang at this point and then
they'll come back and they'll sort of be
a thick layer of epoxy there and ideally
I'll get this
well that epoxy is still green and
and so it'll cut easily with that
utility knife and you know even the
Kevlar what you think is really hard to
cut in the carbon fiber you think oh
that's really strong and leathery epoxy
with the sharp utility knife you cut
through it no problem cuts very easily
alright so we've got this mixed up so
this is what the cloth looks like so you
can see running vertically every other
yarn is yellow and black and running
horizontally every other yarn is yellow
and black so the yellow is the Kevlar
the black is the carbon fiber and it
makes a cool pattern I'd like to look at
it and you see you'll get these lines
where black and yellow line zigzag lines
where the two yarns are the st. kind on
the surface together and so I'm going to
try and line those up so we have my
brush once more we're going to brush
some epoxy onto this
all right so that's a pre saturation I'm
going to try and run these that black
and yellow diagonal straight
this stuff also conforms quite nicely
and we'll get this fully saturated
having the resin below soaked up from
below does help the wet out process on
but you can see so the the contortions
the yarns have to go through they're
coming along diagonally then they wrap
up that curve and wrap around the side
again if we were running the yarn
straight up this way and straight across
that way
it just it would not have a fun time
doing it so once again I will pre
saturate the wood here
so if this the process for these three
is pretty much the same this one's only
different in that I'm using the carbon
Kevlar cloth instead of the pure carbon
the those diagonal lines I've talked
about in the carbon fiber are more
evident in here because of the
alternating carbon and Kevlar yarns
solely a little bit more careful and
getting those lined up nicely alright
here I have a little bit of lot of
carbon fiber to see if the end grain of
this cedar really sucks up the resin so
it doesn't hurt to overfill that a bit
all right once again we will take this
fabric and those diagonal lines are
running vertically so I'm going to try
and get this down so they're running
straight down the center
that's getting it tucked in around of
that leg the camel art is definitely
harder to cut custard a carbon yard
yarns without a second thought
struggle a little bit - those can get
more yarns and I think the fact that
there are diagonal the scissors here is
probably axe making a little bit harder
so I want these my expensive Kevlar
scissors I want to keep them free so I
fixed them do you need alcohol there and
that I should probably always do that to
my scissors if you look at these
scissors you know they're really gummed
up with epoxy I bring these two classes
and students use them and I just let the
epoxy build up but I will use a paint
scraper to get the built up epoxy that's
why I get stuff off there but a little
denatured alcohol water it is still wet
so now we will once again get this
completely wetted out this is a little
bit easier than the carbon fiber to see
that a saturated color change and the
Kevlar is a little bit more pronounced
it goes from a sort of bright yellow to
a greenish so that does make it a little
bit easier to see
I'm finding I have a little space here
where the in front edge of the seat is
not completely covered with fabric so
I'm going to just see if I can pull the
fabric down a length a little bit and
get it so stretches
here's the black yarn we don't want that
in the surface it'll be more visible
than on the carbon on carbon
yeah Thomas Cooper talking about the how
you doing tom
like the woods showing through the the
carbon fiber yeah it can you know I I
tend to not worry about it too much
the more you distort the cloth here the
more likely it is that those weaves just
open up in such a way that you can see
the wood showing through one way to deal
with that so the best way is just paint
the wood black or tint the wood black
before applying the carbon fiber that
way you may be seeing the wood but you
won't know it because it'll be black so
we're just getting this nicely out there
nice happy carbon fiber
happy Kevlar
and there's a little bit distortion
that's visible here and the weave around
this back foot I can sort of pull on it
a little bit to support even that out
and distribute the distortion a little
bit more evenly throughout the wrap make
sure you get up the sides of the legs
it's easy to miss that
okay Rory
I've had problems keeping the carbon
fiber down and the angles it seems to
straighten out and lift away from the
wood yeah again try and make it so the
bias lays into those corners so instead
of having the yarns come straight up
this way and run straight parallel to
that corner I've set up the yarns in the
bias so it's easing that corner and
making it a less drastic corner and that
definitely helps I have found you know
people often talk about working in
falling temperatures while doing
fiberglass work on stripper poles I
found that it's even more critical when
using these fabrics the fabrics are not
good at letting the air escape out
through fabric and so you can end up in
a situation where you can't see the
bubble because it's under the cloth but
there's a bubble there and it can't get
out through the fabric in the same way
it might in fiberglass so if you have
outgassing from the wood due to the wood
getting warm and warm or throughout your
process you'll end up with really bad
bubbles and it's really hard to see them
until it's kind of too late I have found
however and this is from experience that
even when the epoxy is hard as long as
it's only recently hard you can take a
heat gun and soften the epoxy up and
press out a bubble you know it's not
recommended that you allow it to happen
but it you know comes to shove and he
end up in the situation where you've got
some major bubbles try and inspect with
your work fairly early on in the cure
process you know babysit it and if you
see bubbles rising up a start to make
sure your temperatures drop and to just
make those bubbles shrink and be you can
come and heat them up with the heat gun
and press them back down if you get to
them early enough
so this is just about ready
and I feel this grunge cup starting to
warm up at the bottom of the earliest
grunge is starting to kick off again
it's um a fairly thick blob here and
this will make a nice muffin probably is
that epoxy kicks off the air trapped in
the epoxy from all the scraping I've
done will start to expand and don't end
up looking like a souffle here I call
that bacon muffins all right so
I also find with the epoxy cup typically
if you just leave the epoxy brush over
the top let it keep or you can probably
pop the old epoxy out of there or just
use it as is with the layer of cured
epoxy in the bottom it doesn't matter
but if you leave the cup down there's a
brush down in the cup then it's harder
to just straight away use it and it's I
find it harder to get the brush the
whole bit of epoxy out of there with the
brush stuck into it it seems to be
easier if there's nothing in there and
then I just squeeze the cup and crack it
out of there and generally have good
results with that all right so just
double-checking around these feet making
sure it's living in there wrapping
nicely edge looks pretty good
so let's see if there's you have
questions here
how long do you have to great
explanation hand lay-up
somebody's wondering where the Russian
subtitles are sorry about that next time
anything else okay I think that's what
it shows you the process I'm gonna let
these cure up and probably get a fill
code on it again either tonight or
tomorrow morning and see how it all
comes out so feel free after I'm done
here to keep on asking questions on in
the comments and we can try to get to
them and you know I'll answer them the
old-fashioned way all right Kevin
deboning I'll be putting carbon fiber on
small wooden pieces vacuum bagging a
good idea vacuum bagging is going to
provide a stronger light lighter layup
with carbon fiber but it's it's a bit of
a hassle the alternatives so the cheap
man's vacuum bagging is to use a peel
ply so a peel ply is a nylon fabric
sometimes treated with something so it
the epoxy does not bond to it but the
epoxy doesn't bind to nylon very well
anyways so if you're dealing with flat
surfaces you lay that excuse me you lay
the fabric down so your carbon fiber wet
it out completely and then over saturate
it a little bit and then you lay down
your peel ply and squeegee it down tight
and you'll get a resin soaking up
through the peel ply and you can even
squeegee off the excess and when when
it's cured you go ahead and you peel
that peel ply right off and it leaves a
nice surface that's basically glue up
ready sanding ready you don't need a
fill coat
and it's a really inexpensive easy way
to get some of the properties of a good
vacuum bag the reason I am not doing it
on these seats is it does not do well in
complicated shapes so the peel ply
doesn't conform the same way that I
would last or carbon fiber conforms to
these complicated shapes so I couldn't
lay it down and have it do all these
curves it just doesn't like to do curves
the peel ply does flat surface really so
actually this this is my backrest I
don't know if you can see but that's
carbon fiber and this I laid a peel ply
on essentially it's it's not a compound
curve the peel ply lay down on it very
easily and end up with a nice surface
and just a light sanding on that and I
can glue it directly to it it's a nice
it's a really nice thing I wish that we
were easier to use on the layout of the
layout of a full boat if you could light
peel ply down on it and have good
results you'd save weight because you
essentially don't need a Philco and
you're compressing the fabric and
squeezing the excess resin out and it's
a nice thing but the complex shapes will
be even in fairly simple canoe I think
there's things you could do you could
cut strips and lay it down and you know
so each strip doesn't have to conform to
quite as complicated
but each time you have an overlap of the
strip you'll end up with the rich name
that would you would have to sand down
so I think that it would just not be
worthwhile but it's something I keep
thinking about and you know if anybody
wants to do the science on that report
back I'd like to hear how it goes all
right I think I'm going to call that the
day here again if you have any questions
feel free to post them in the comments
and I'll try to get back onto those
shortly let's see how do we stop this
thing there we go there's an X stop yes

Flipping the Forms - microBootlegger Sport - E21

Sun, 04/12/2020 - 14:06
Flipping the Forms - microBootlegger Sport - E21 nick Sun, 04/12/2020 - 14:06

Fitting in the Whiskey strip of the closing strip on the bottom.


Please support the making of these videos through my Patreon site:


Morning Mandolin - Chris Haugen Banjo Hop - Audionautix: is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license ( Artist:

good morning welcome back to the shop
I'm Nick Schade and I'm building the micro
bootlegger sports strip built kayak so
far I've got the hull all stripped up
and what's gonna happen today is I'm
gonna flip the forms over and start
working on the deck the first step of
that is obviously just flipping it over
and then I want to break the strip's
free of the forms right now they're hot
melt glue to the forms to avoid staples
in order to make it easier to get the
haul off later I want to break that glue
joint and make it so the hollows free of
the forms so we'll flip the boat over
break it free and then start stripping
up the deck so the hulls potentially
gonna receive a little bit of rough
handling while I try and flip it over so
just is a little bit of reinforcement
I'm gonna run some filament tape which
is a fiberglass reinforced packing tape
just across the strips just isn't sort
of reinforcement I'll do it wherever
there's a form over here I set up some V
blocks on my saw horses this is a
place to accept the boat as I flip it
over I'll end up putting it back on my
external strong back system here before
I'm done but just for now but I can lift
it up put it someplace I have these B
I have here some inverse forms or
cradles to correspond to a couple of the
forms on the strong back so this is
would be form 28 or 28 inches from the
finished bow so we've got form 98 and
form 158 and so I'm just going to end up
screwing these down to the strong back
in their respective locations so I have
cradles to hold the boat securely to the
my working surface here couple cleats to
just a little bit of weather stripping
here which I'm going to use to cushion
top edge of these forms
it looks like it'll do just fine so now
I want to break the strips off the forms
I don't want to mess up the forms
particularly but I just want to make
sure that the glue holding the strip's
to these forms is broken so when it
comes time to get the deck off I only
need to worry about breaking the deck
free I will already have the hull free
so the first thing I want to do is just
make it to the forms of freedom moves so
the wedges are out the forms are free to
move now and then I'll just take lightly
tap the forms break them free
when I tap here I'm tapping towards the
wider bit so I'm not trying to force the
forms into a smaller part of the strips
which could split the tips apart once
the forms are broken free I can return
them to their original position by
inserting the wedges back in
I'm also going to cut the inner stem
here so I don't end up attaching the
Deccan Hall together of this piece
with the stems cut I can just double
check make sure the forms are indeed
free this end double check the other end
since the stern recurves forward this
part of the form is trapped in there in
order to get it out it needs to slide
forward and so I can't just lift up here
to break it free I need to lift up at
the other end
now after popping all that glue off I'm
gonna put a little bit of glue back in
but this time I'm just gonna be gluing
the top edge just to make sure these
strips tape stay tight up against the
forms these will be easy enough to break
out when it comes time so the forms all
flipped over and ready to accept strips
from the deck those strips were all
bundled up and prepared before we even
started on the haul and so now it's just
a matter of unbundling those and taking
one strip off of stack at a time and
adding it onto the forms see how far we
get here we have the material we set
aside for the deck got it marked
starboard port this is the part line
nine and nine with a circle on it and so
we just need to undo this wrapping so we
can get access to the strips
bringing this for a strip over here will
do the sanity check all right
part line part line starboard starboard
six seven eight nine so it looks like
everything's in the sequence it's
supposed to be and grain looks like it's
right orientation everything looks good
so quick dry fit here shows I need to do
a little bit of Robo bevel on here to
square up that top edge of the existing
so I'm ready to put this first strip on
the deck the only thing that's different
here is I won't actually glue the bottom
edge of this strip to the top edge of
this strip that way when it comes time
to take the deck off it's not glued
together I will glue this strip to the
forms and some of these strips popped
off on the hull i'll riku them back on
and I will put a little spot of yellow
glue between the strip and the inner
stem so this does get clued to the inner
stem but it does not get glued to the
strip below it and again I'm lining up
my marks here to keep the grain all
aligned and we'll just continue with
that all the way up to the centerline
like a lot of kayak designs micro
bootlegger sport doesn't have a defined
shear line I've created a part line
which is right here between these two
strips so I haven't glued between these
two strips and in the middle of the boat
that's the widest part of the forms it
doesn't really have anything going on
there it's just a smooth continuous
curve past that area I'd like to make it
so essentially that part line disappears
so in the finished boat you just don't
see where the hull finishes off and the
deck starts you know I've got a water
line here and I want to point that out
but I don't really need to point out
where the shear line is on the
traditional kayak the shear line is a
fairly distinct angle between the deck
and the hall and there's an obvious
transition from the deck to the hall
with this it's not so obvious and I want
to hide it so as part of that I
continued these strips rate paths
they're the same color strips starting
at the water water line moving up but
the other thing is since there is not
that to find angle there it's not very
rigid so it's it's pretty easy for these
strips to move one against the other and
so one is high then the other is high
and if I'm sanding making this a smooth
transition between this strip and this
strip can be a little tricky because
there's not much supporting it here at
the forum there's something supporting
it here at the other form of something
supporting it but here the this strips
can flex quite a bit so what I'd like to
do is put a little bit of a backer
behind that to help keep those strips
aligned and what it's going to be is
basically a couple little tabs of wood
one glued to the top overhanging into
the bottom another on the bottom
overhanging onto the top I'm going to
on the inside so when you push on it
there's something bridging those two
pieces but I don't want to have the two
pieces bonded together that's why we'll
glue one to one side and the other to
the other side but by having those two
teeth hooked together it'll just give a
little bit of support so just get this
little short piece of strip here and the
part line is the third between the third
and fourth strip down one two three four
so right there and I'm going to end up
gluing this across like that and then
another piece right next to it so one
will be glued to the strip above the
part line yeah they will be glued to the
strip below the part line
and it'll go along the whole scene
between every form doing just that
so that'll just give it a little bit of
support when it comes time to sand the
outside along the part line
I'm gonna call that it for today I got
three strips up the side I get the
little teeth in there to hold this that
seam in alignment I flipped this morning
I flipped it over and got the forms
knocked free and so made good progress
today I think it's it's looking sharp
that dark wood that I've that I've used
for the side is the pattern starting to
come together I'm starting to see the
next mirror here and I think it's really
gonna look cool tomorrow will be just
more stripping watching a man stripped
and we'll see how far we get with that
the goal will be to get up to the center
line start stripping past the center
line on one side and then eventually
we'll end up marking that center line
trimming to the center line filling in
from the other side and we will also
mark this back deck shine feature line
and put a accent strip along there we'll
also put an accent strip on the center
line and we'll fill in this back deck
with that other wood I got which I think
will look really sharp so coming along
if you have any questions please post
them in the comments you know if you
watched all the way through this give me
a like if you're watching all these
episodes hit subscribe I've got a couple
books out about strip building boats and
despite the amount of information I'm
trying to put into this video I think
having a reference from those books to
see what steps and what a little bit
more why I'm doing things might come in
handy for some of you if you're
interested in the book there should be a
link down in the description until the
next episode thanks for watching and
happy paddling

Final Sanding & Staining - Petrel Kayak Build - E8

Sun, 04/12/2020 - 13:49
Final Sanding & Staining - Petrel Kayak Build - E8 nick Sun, 04/12/2020 - 13:49

Final sanding of the strips and applying a stain to the wood prior to fiberglassing.

This is the Strip Built Petrel design.

Support my Patreon at:


Other Tools:

so I built the boat in this series in the
winter of 2019 as I record this intro
right now it is the middle of March of
2020 and we're in the midst of the
corona virus
my wife just put her hand on my forehead
to see if I had a fever I hope
everybody's safe in good health washing
their hands maybe doing a little social
distancing hanging out in their shop and
boatbuilding I thought you guys might
appreciate a break from all the bad news
on the television in the newspaper and
watch a little bit about building for
now and so in this episode I'm going to
be working on finishing up the sanding
and getting some stain on the boat so
we'll be doing a little bit of masking
to have different colored stains and to
keep the accents showing up nice and
bright and I'll start off with filling
some of the gaps that inevitably show up
in any bill they do so let's get right
to it
I have a few small cracks where I didn't
have good tight joints between the
strips so I'm going to fill some of
those up with a little bit of sawdust
mixture so I've got my cyclone here
which collects the dust as I sand and I
dumped it out before I got started it's
some clean stuff so that cedar sawdust I
found that even though this is the wood
that came off the boat it ends up being
darker when you mix it up like this just
because of the fine powder just absorbs
material resin and so forth more so I'm
going to add a little bit of cab Asil
I'm gonna add some water to it
glue to ask act as a size and sort of
fine binds it all together there I have
a putty which I can spread into the
cracks seal them up
part of what sealing up the cracks does
isn't just visual it's to keep the epoxy
from just running straight through
leaving sort of a bubble there so this
will help fill those up so here I have a
little crack I'd like to fill up it's
pretty thin I could just epoxy right
over this and you know frankly you've
probably never even noticed it but here
I might as well see if I can fill that
up a little bit I'm going to take and
put masking tape on either side of it
that way I don't end up getting a halo
of glue sealing up the grain in the wood
around the issue
and I'm just putting the material right
where I need it and take the putty knife
take some of the putty off let it dry
I'll be coming back and sanding this and
it'll knock the top off of that
I'll give the whole boat of the final
overall sanding with 120 on the
longboard it gets rid of scratches from
the last 120 sanding deals with some of
these places where I put a little putty
in the cracks and also last thing I did
before that was when everything down
raised the grain so this will flatten
that raised
so I've done the major overall sanding
now I want to hit some details always
difficult get the very edge here at the
shear line stand it all the way out
because it's flexible there so you push
on it it just flexes away and tends to
get shortchanged in the amount of
sanding it gets so I'm going to sit down
and there's a small city block and take
care of that some places on the deck
where around the recess it needs a
little bit of detail and I'm just gonna
affect it as I go see if I see anything
and I can deal with it as I go
so now I've got the Deccan Hall all
sanded out ready for the next step which
in this case is going to be staining I
could go directly to fiberglassing now
if I weren't gonna stain
so each pass I did took like half an
hour to do the whole boat so the first
60 grit over the whole thing about half
an hour then I did sixty grit on the
longboard another half hour and then 80
grit with the random orbital and then 80
grit with the longboard and then 120
grit with the random orbital and 120 was
the longboard then a little bit of
detail sanding so there were three hours
of sanding to get it to this point which
is quite a bit of time spent sanding but
it goes pretty quickly the thing to
remember to make sanding as easy as
possible is be intentional in what
you're doing so know what you're
intending to do so the first pass is to
level things out and fair it out so we
want that to go as quickly as possible
it's about removing material so we want
to move material as quickly as possible
so for that purpose we go with really
coarse grit and a really powerful sander
and so we're just removing material
we're trying to make it level so we're
not trying to erase mistakes we're
trying to lower high spots so you don't
go around say oh there's a spot that
looks like it needs work and try and dig
into that spot that's going to make a
low spot if you see a place where there
seems to be an issue where it's uneven
feel for the high spots and knock down
the high spots again we're being
intentional in what we're doing also to
save time be systematic in what you're
doing so don't just sort of pop here and
there oh I see something over there you
see something over here work from one
end of the boat to the other then back
up the other way work on it
systematically so you're not
going over the same spot lots of times
this was pretty easy to fare out the
strips were laying down fair they were
fitting tight they were even the Cova
bead helped make the strips nice and
even I save time my sanding by making
sure I had the strip's fair and smooth I
put them in place every step of the way
we're trying to make things fair and
smooth and that way when it comes time
to do a real hard work of tearing it out
you don't need to do a lot of work so
once we get it all fair and smooth and
leveled we are done trying to get rid of
problems we there might be a few here
and there that we missed but if you feel
when you get to the next grit that oh
here's an issue I've got to work on this
you were better off doing that with the
coarse grain and when it goes faster
trying to fix problems with the finer
grain just as slow we want to use the
most aggressive fastest tool we can to
get the job done and so it's done
quickly I know people are scared to use
coarse grain sandpaper but it takes a
lot of work to sand all the way through
the boat and you're most likely to do
that if you're trying to spot fix things
the whole intention of the 80 grit
sandpaper is only to get rid of the
scratches from the 60 grit sandpaper and
then once we're done with the AIDA we go
to 120 and the reason for using 120 is
to get rid of the scratches from the 80
grit sandpaper if you're finding swirls
leftover from the 60 grit you probably
didn't do enough with the 80 grit so as
you go with the 80 grit inspect the
surface look for scratches in it that
are the swirls from the 60 grit you'll
be able to tell the difference sand them
away so do your process systematically
as you go trying to get rid of the
scratches the whole way it doesn't take
a lot you just need to be intentional in
what you're doing knowing what you're
trying to accomplish and concentrating
on a comp
sing that task and then move on to the
next task so there is a lot of sanding
strip build boats it's a given and the
goal is to make the sanding is easy and
quick as possible and when you're doing
it right it's a really satisfying
project you're seeing changes you see
how you're improving the boat with every
step of the process if you're not seeing
it make any difference think about what
you're doing are you doing something
that's worthwhile if it doesn't look
like it's making a difference do
something else if you see something that
needs to be fixed and what you're doing
isn't fixing it think about what you
need to do to fix it so be intentional
in everything you do and it'll go
quickly and it'll be fun and you'll have
a beautiful boat I put some accent
strips some contrasting Alaskan yellow
cedar in lung feature line if I have
this trying basically accent strip I
like to put in highlight hide that
accent strip I want to do that put a lot
of effort into putting that strip in
what I've often done is just going to
hit gone ahead and stained everything
then come back it ends up popping again
so you can see the nice accent what I
did today this time we want to go ahead
and get stained today if we put epoxy on
here I need to wait 12 hours for that to
dry have that accent showing pretty
crisply so I'm gonna put masking tape on
either side of the accent blue tape here
instead of the green tape I often use
because the blue tape does not stick as
well I want it to stick but I don't want
it to like peel grain I don't want to
create a rough spot by putting a really
aggressive sticking tape on here and
peeling up grain as I peel it off and
then having a place where the stain
reacts differently due to the texture of
the wood science experiment then I'm
going to try and put a bead of CA glue
right down on top of that looks like it
may worked alright
I got a chance to set up take a look at
it the few places where strings of glue
pulled off as I peel the tape I might be
able to sand those out that looks like
there's a nice bead right on top of that
accent there's a little bit of bleed off
into the cedar but there's going to be
good contrast there anyways I think
that'll work out fine
I have an accent strip on the hall also
again this accent highlights repeat the
line drying back here and I had the same
problem we're gonna be staining on both
sides and so I don't want stain on the
accent stripe but I have a slightly
different solution for this one my
intention is to have a two-tone here so
the bottom of the boat will be stained
as well the side of the boat but I'm
going to use a lighter stain on the
bottom than I am gonna do on the side so
to accomplish that I'm going to mask off
with masking tape at the accent stripe I
know if I'm sort of a messy workers so
I'm gonna take some of this masking film
and put that along and I'll put that
below the accent stripe and I'll use
regular masking tape to get just above
the accent stripe the the goal is to
have the masking tape and the edge of
the masking tape above the line wrapping
down below so it's covering the line I'm
gonna leave a little bit of the natural
wood showing above the accent stripe and
the accent stripes going to have a
little bit of act of natural wood color
on either side just a skosh I
specifically chose a high contrast wood
on either side of the accent stripe here
so if I don't get color all the way to
the accent strike it'll still look right
because there'll be a nice sharp
contrast there again the goal is to come
by with the masking film so I don't
spill any stain down the side of the
boat and I'm going to do the bottom
first which is the lighter colors so if
I do end up getting stained on the side
of the boat it'll be a lighter color and
any in the darker stain should hide it
but again I'm going to try and mask it
off and protect it with this masking
I'm gonna use this light red mahogany
stain on the bottom and I'll use a
darker blood-red on the sides on the top
we've got a clean rag I'm gonna put the
stain on the rag fairly heavy and wet
wipe down the whole boat and then come
back with denatured alcohol and wipe
down the boat again this is an
alcohol-based stain so it dries really
quickly as such a tends to blotch so by
coming back with a wet alcohol rag I can
even out the color
I'll let that dry and then to the side
now with the bottom stain dry I'll mask
off the accent strip on the other side
and then to the side of the boat
I'm using a blood red for the side and
the deck so it should be some contrast
between the side and the bottom but you
know still reddish
well it's good I will let that dry and
we'll get some fiberglass on the boat so
you may know that I make my living
primarily through the sale of plans to
build your own small boats such as this
kayak and other boats I have so if your
boss told you to stay home and do some
social distancing and quarantine in
place and you've been looking to build a
now maybe is your chance unfortunately
it looks like we may have a lot of time
when we've got to stay away from people
and maybe it's a good time to just be in
your shop and hang out and work on an
interesting project so if that projects
building boat I have plans available
come by my website check it out see what
I've what I've got otherwise whatever
you have just a nice time to be in the
shop and keep away from people but
seriously and more importantly it's the
time to stay safe and keep your same
family safe and do what you need to do
wash your hands buy more toilet paper or
whatever you need to do so until the
next episode stay safe thanks for
watching and happy paddling

Fitting the Cockpit Recess - Petrel Kayak Build - E7

Sun, 03/29/2020 - 12:15
Fitting the Cockpit Recess - Petrel Kayak Build - E7 nick Sun, 03/29/2020 - 12:15

Installing the cockpit recess and getting going on sanding and fairing.

This is the Strip Built Petrel design.

Support my Patreon at:


Other Tools:

hey welcome to heal my kayaks workshop
I'm Nick Schade and we were working on
the petrel sea kayak and last episode we
finished up the stripping and in this
episode we will install the cockpit
recess and start sanding before I get
into that like to talk a little bit
about the Cove and bead strips as you
remember I'm using 3/16 thick strips and
I'm using the three sixteenths diameter
covin bead bit
the typical cove and bead width 3/16 strips
is still using the quarter inch that
you'd use a quarter inch thick strips
but I found a set of router bits that
will make 3/16 Cove and bead and I
decided to experiment with that and see
how it worked worked well they'll work
better than the quarter-inch cove and bead
set I got good tight joints things
seemed to nestle in there they seemed to
stay in place quite well I would say
however I can get better tighter joint
still by hand beveling for example using
my Robo-bevel on square edged strips I
think I can still get tighter joints by
hand beveling so with that said let's
get straight to this episode with the
spacers out these forms are free to move
so I can push them out of the way as I
need to so at this point I'm going to
drop the recess back in place and I've
made some marks where the centre line is
on each end here I'm going to line that
up with the centre line on the boat
now I'm gonna trace this on to the deck
the pattern I used to cut out this hole
just as a rough size it ends up cutting
a little bit small
which is ideal be bad if it was oversize
it's hard to add wood back on but here
we can get it fitted in closer to where
it needs to be gives you a good idea
where it needs to be and then now we can
make a new mark here
they use a saber saw again to get in
closer to that line I use a bunch of
little planes to clean up the edge these
need to get fared out and beveled so
they fit up against the the recess piece
so we'll just take and playing this down
just look for the high spots and knock
them down
I have a little gap here between where
strip coming in from the stern and strip
coming in to the bow didn't quite meet
and ended up being a little bit on the
deck I think by the time I get this all
playing down all that's going to remain
of this little gap filler is slightest a
little bit so that's going to be
invisible but I just want to have
something in there for now while I'm
filling that in getting it plain smooth
up at the front end of this reef set
piece this piece is a little bit wider
than the feature line here so I'm gonna
eventually want to trim this down blend
that in but for now I'm just gonna work
and hitting these fits tighter but
you'll see me shave that back a little
bit so this point ends up great even
with that your feature line so again
this is going to have to be trimmed off
on both sides make it symmetrical
the cockpit recess all installed I'm
ready to pull the staples and start
sanding I might do a little scraping
we'll see what needs to be done I'll
just get to it I'm using staples people
often think it's going to take a real
long time to remove them all you know
this year I started about ten of two and
I finished up but about two o'clock
so I've done one quick pass over the
whole deck with 60 grid in the random
orbital sander I haven't tried to fix
anything I've just tried to go over the
whole thing start to level it out and
it's a fairly consistent manner so I'm
trying to just hit everything about the
same amount at this point there's some
places that the Sanders missed for
various reasons usually there's some
little low strips if i zoom in here you
see some shiny spots around up in here
down here some in here
those are spots where you're seeing the
surface of the strip that's been cut
with a saw and there's sort of dull
sections are all where it's been hit
with the sander so I'd like to get rid
of all those shiny spots and the trick
there isn't to just go and hit those
shiny spots with the sander it's the
level the areas around it down to the
level of that low spot so there's a
couple ways you can do it you can do it
with the sander some of them up in here
I've got these are where the really
sharp points the strips come in between
two other strips and those ten does not
want to bend up as the stern sweeps up
here but I think I'm gonna do there is
just hit those areas with a spokeshave
and essentially I'm lowering the wood
around those low spots
and I'll hit it with a sander again see
if it looks any better
obviously I've made some new shiny spots
trying saying those level see how it was
a bunch of shiny spots in here - between
strips looks like I just didn't hit that
quite as much with the sander
there's a little bit of shine up in here
left but otherwise that's looking pretty
so that's sixty grit on the deck now
I'll flip the boat over and start
working on the bottom right now the only
thing holding the deck onto this strong
back is a little bit of residual glue
you're just going to tape it down just
so as I manhandling I'm just gonna flip
it over onto these cradles on the
sawhorse doesn't work on it there so it
took about ten minutes remove the
staples from the deck and then here's
another 15 minutes
so it took twenty five minutes
I'll ask the first pass with the 60 grit
so I could cut down pretty well as a
couple shiny spots deal with this
looking good I'm going to take the hull
off the forms and then the deck off the
forms and create two sets of forms one
for the deck one for the hole just to
make it easier to work on so I can work
on the deck and work on the hull kind of
at the same time without having to flip
back and forth between them obviously
you could do what I did before or just
as I finished one part flip it over do
the other part but it is a little heavy
with all the forms in there and the
strong back and so forth so I'm just
going to take it all apart and what I'm
going to do is I don't have two full
sets of forms so I'm going to just take
every other form and put every other
form on the other strong back and that
way I have two sets of forms with
instead of a ten inch spacing like I
have on these forms I'll have a twenty
inch space at this point it's all
stripped up it's not a big deal so
that's the plan
I've got these little half-inch spaces I
can put in in lieu of the form and so
the spacing stones
I'm gonna make this strong back to the
deck and I'm going to keep the bow forms
on the deck because the deck is just
I'm just gonna put a little dab of our
hot melt glue on the forms just near the
shear line to just help secure the
Deccan Hall to those forms so they don't
shift around as I'm sanding
I'm now going to send everything 60 grid
on a longboard this is to fare out the
surface the first pass with the random
orbital 60 grit was to level things out
get rid of the glue start to get rid of
the facets between the strips this will
tend to make sure that there's no divots
left by that sanding and to help just
get a smooth surface
so now the boats fair I've leveled out
all the inconsistencies between the
strips I've gotten rid of any
inconsistencies in the link with the
longboard now really all I need to do is
get rid of the scratches from the 60
grit so first step I'm going to step up
to 80 grit and now I'm going to put a
contour pad on this will make the sander
conform more to the surface of the boat
and be a little bit less aggressive when
I first ran it with this rotecks
I was using the aggressive mode I'm
going to turn it down to the less
aggressive mode a little finer sanding
again we're trying to get rid of the
sanding scratches now and from here I
will do some more hand sanding and then
go to 120 and work my way up to 120 and
finish with hand sanding 120 and that
should be plenty to get rid of the
scratches and have a good base for stain
and epoxy fiberglass up in the ends
where this sander may be a little bit
big I might avoid using this sander on
some of the smaller places we'll see how
I feel
most of the scratches from the 60 grit I
like to go over it again with hand
sanding to get those scratches the
scratches from the 80 grit down so
they're just going parallel instead of
being the swirls from the random random
Oracle plus I want to try out my new
flexible sanding pad this is the work of
pad with dust collection looks pretty
I'm going to switch over to my Finnish
sander this finer orbit this is a three
millimeter orbit on here we're going to
continue to use my contour pad that's
all sanded out to 120 I'll do one more
sanding hand sanding with 120 but before
I do that and want to swell out the
grain a little bit just raise the grain
so I have a squirt bottle with water in
it so I'm just going to spritz the whole
thing down make the whole thing wet let
that dry overnight and I'll sand a
handstand with 120 in the morning
so I'm almost done with sanding now I
just showed you wetting out the wood
which will expand any compression areas
from sanding or pulling staples or
whatever may have happened but I'm
letting that dry and in the next episode
we'll finish up the sanding stain the
boat but leave the bottom unstained and
then I think in the next episode we
should also be able to get right into
fiberglassing we'll see how long it
takes and how long the episode is trying
to keep it reasonable so if you're
interested in seeing that hit subscribe
turn on notifications hit like hit
follow whatever you like to do all those
good things it really helps me and I
really appreciate it if you'd like to
directly support the making of these
videos I've got a patreon site for a
buck or two a month you can subscribe
and help me produce these videos and
keep them coming on a timely manner the
best thing to do to support these is to
head over to my website Gilliam at
kayaks calm you'll find plans for this
boat and a lot of others you'll find
instruction books on strip building I've
got two books a strip bill sea kayak
which outlines the process for building
a strip built sea kayak and building
strip plank boats with goes into the
details of strip building from building
any small boat so if you're interested
in any of that head over there see if
there's anything you'd like so until the
next episode thanks for watching and
happy paddling

Performance Graphs Are Back

Thu, 03/26/2020 - 13:00
Performance Graphs Are Back nick Thu, 03/26/2020 - 13:00

My old website had them and some people have asked about them and now they are back. I have stability and drag (how much force is needed to go a given speed) data for most of my designs.


These graphs show how much torque it takes to hold the kayak at a given angle of lean. On the left (0°) is upright and on the left is completely upside down (180°).

The stability is modeled with several different paddler weights and several different weights for gear. The paddler (or rower) is assumed to be seated in the kayak with their center of gravity 10-inches above the seat, directly with the boat center of buoyancy and the gear is centered in the volume of the boat. The weight of the boat is also factored into the calculation. The paddler is assumed to be sitting bolt upright in the seat and does not do anything to correct for the boat leaning.

What is being graphed is actually the side-to-side horizontal distance between the center of gravity of the paddler/gear/boat system and the center of buoyancy at various angles between 0° and 180°. This sometimes called GZ. What this tells us is how long the lever arm is that is forcing the boat to tip. When the numbers are positive, that means the boat wants to turn back upright, i.e. it is "stable". The moment trying to force the boat back upright is the combined weight of the boat and everything in it times the distance GZ giving you foot-pounds of torque. When the number goes negative, that means the weight of the paddler/gear/boat system is out beyond the center of buoyancy and the torque is actually trying to dump you in the water.

I generally have modeled the stability with two different weight paddlers and each with or without gear in the boat. Heavier paddlers tend to make the boat less stable because their weight raises the center of gravity. Heavier gear tends to make the boat more stable as the weight lowers the center of gravity.

Initial Stability

Kind of like it says, "Initial" stability is how stable the boat feels when it is floating upright normally. Some boats will feel very solid when you sit in them, other will be a bit twitchy - feeling like they don't want to settle down. To get an idea about initial stability, look at the first part of the graph all the way over on the left. Look at how quickly the lines rise up from the zero point (zero degrees is floating upright with no lean). Those boats where the curve rises quickly will feel more stable. Boats where the curve is almost flat and rises very little or slightly will tend to feel unstable. 

Secondary Stability

There are some boats that feel really unstably at first, but if are hard to capsize. If you lean hard out to one side, they find a spot where it is hard to tip them over more. This is secondary stability. Secondary stability is often characterized by how high the top of the stability curve gets. This is the maximum torque you can put on the boat without it capsizing. As you lean farther at requires less and less effort to make the boat tip farther and farther.

Ultimate Stability

It may seem like this is the most important but really it is initial and secondary stability that most effect how comfortable we are in a boat. Ultimate stability is how much work it takes to finally get the boat to the point of no-return. When the curve crosses the zero line and becomes negative, the boat would now rather go completely upside down than return to upright. Technically, this is the area under the curve for the positive parts of the stability curve. Look for boats with a high maximum GZ combined with zero-crossing as far to the right as possible. Boats with higher curves will be harder to tip, and boats with longer positive stability can be tipped at a more severe angle and still return upright.


The drag graphs are based on the modeling system created by John Winters for the old Sea Kayaker Magazine for their kayak evaluations and reviews. As of this writing you could still find the Excel modeling spread sheet on the Mariner Kayaks website. These models are based on some testing Sea Kayaker had done on sea kayaks and then refined by John. I am using a version of the Excel spread sheet.

In this case "drag" is the predicted force that is required to make the boat move a certain speed through the water. Boats with lower drag at a certain speed are easier to move at that speed, and conversely if you are able to make your paddle or oars produce a certain amount of force, the boat with lower drag will go faster when you are paddling that hard.

Drag is a function of primary sources. Friction from water sliding along the underwater surface of the boat is the primary source of drag at low speeds. As speed increases, the wake created by the boat pushing water out of the way becomes more important. Moving that water out and back around the shape/form of the boat requires energy, and the faster it moves the more energy required. At the top end speed, the form drag dominates over the frictional drag.

Generally, boats with lower wetted surface areas will have less frictional drag, and longer boats will have less form drag. As a result short boats are often easier to paddle (faster) at low speeds, and long boats are faster at high speeds.

Like the stability curves, I have generally modeled the drag with a couple scenarios: with the boat carrying just the paddler/rower and with the paddler plus some gear. Typically, more total weight will require more power to move around, so the drag will be higher.

Reading the Graphs

At the time I am writing this blog post, I am still trying to improve the display of the data. The legends are hard to read, but if you over your mouse over the dots on the curves, you will see more information about each curve.

It is my goal to have these graphs plotted on the comparison page as well, but that part of the project is not yet completed.